MacBook Pro 14" M2 WiFi Antenna Repair

Allow your MacBook's battery to drain below 10% before starting this repair. A charged battery may catch fire if damaged during the repair.

Unplug all cables and fully shut down your MacBook.

Close the lid and flip your MacBook over. Keep the lid closed until you've physically disconnected the battery.

Opening the lid will power on your MacBook. If you're using macOS Big Sur v11.1 or earlier, disable this function using [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Disable+Auto+Boot/110034|new_window=true|this guide].

Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove the six screws securing the lower case:

Two 6.8 mm screws

Two 5.3 mm screws

Two 3.4 mm screws

Throughout this repair, [https://www.ifixit.com/products/fixmat|keep track of each screw|new_window=true] and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

Apply a suction handle near the front edge of the lower case, between the screw holes.

Pull up on the suction handle to create a gap between the lower case and the frame.

Insert an opening pick between the lower case and the frame.

Slide the pick around the left corner to release the first set of clips.

You'll hear and feel a pop when each clip releases.

Slide your opening pick around the right corner to release the second set of clips securing the lower case.

Insert your opening pick between the lower case and the frame near the middle left screw hole.

Firmly twist the pick until the clip releases.

Repeat this procedure for the clip near the middle right screw hole.

Firmly pull the lower case away from the screen hinges to release the last clips securing it to the frame.

This motion requires significant force. Don't pull the lower case up, as you may bend the clips.

If it feels stuck, pull one corner at a time.

Remove the lower case.

To reinstall the lower case:

Set it in place and align the sliding clips near the display hinges. Press down and slide the lower case toward the hinges.

Once the lower case is secured near the hinges, press down firmly to engage the remaining four clips.

You'll hear and feel a pop when each clip engages.

Use [product|IF145-020-4|blunt nose tweezers] or your fingers to peel and remove the cover from the battery board, just above the middle battery cell.

Use blunt nose tweezers to gently peel back the pull tab covering the battery data connector.

Don't remove or tear the pull tab, as it's attached to the head of the connector.

Use the point of a spudger to flip up the small locking tab securing the battery data connector.

Locking tabs on [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s64969|ZIF connectors] are fragile—be gentle with your spudger.

Use blunt nose tweezers or your fingers to grab the battery data cable pull tab and slide it straight out of its socket.

Move the cable to the left, out of the way of the battery board.

Don't strain the cable, as it's still attached to the battery board.

Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm screw securing the battery connector.

Use the flat end of your spudger to slightly lift the battery connector away from the battery board.

Lifting the connector too high will break it. Angle it enough so it won't accidentally contact the battery board during repair.

Optionally, you may insert a barrier, such as a piece of a playing card, between the connector and the board during the repair.

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 3.1 mm screws securing the display cable retaining bracket.

Remove the bracket.

Use your T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.7 mm screws securing the display cable cover.

Remove the cover.

Use the flat end of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the display cable from the display board.

Use your T3 Torx driver to remove the four 3.3 mm screws securing the plastic covers to the screen hinges, one on each side.

Remove the plastic covers from the screen hinges.

Peel and remove the plastic cover from the antenna cables.

During reassembly, don't worry if your foam strips are torn. Re-adhere the plastic cover as well as you can. Use small pieces of tape to secure the cover, if necessary.

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s64972|new_window=true|antenna cables] from the logic board.

Pry straight up on the metal head of the connector. Avoid lifting the cable itself as much as possible.

To reconnect the cables, align the connectors directly over their sockets and press down with the flat end of a spudger until they snap into place.

Use your T3 Torx driver to remove the four 1.5 mm screws securing the two display board cable covers.

Remove the covers.

Remove the sixteen screws securing the antenna bar:

Four 3.3 mm T5 Torx screws, two on each side

Twelve 1.1 mm P2 Pentalobe screws, six on each side

P2 Pentalobe screws are very small and strip easily. Make sure your driver is in good condition before applying pressure.

Use your T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.4 mm screw securing the antenna cables to the logic board.

Insert your opening pick between the antenna bar and the frame.

Pry at different spots along the length of the antenna bar to free it from its recess in the frame.

Don't slide your pick, as it may damage display cables underneath the antenna bar.

Pull the left edge of the antenna bar away from the frame and feed its two antenna cables out from underneath the cutouts in the frame.

Remove the antenna bar.