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MacBook Pro 14" M2 Logic Board Repair

Complete guide to MacBook Pro 14" M2 logic board repair. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.

💰 Cost:$300 - $800
⏱️ Time:3-6 hours
🌍 CO₂ Saved:270 kg

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💰 Cost Breakdown

Parts$180 - $480
Labor$120 - $320
Total Estimated Cost$300 - $800

💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.

🔧 Repair Overview

Logic Board Repair is one of the most common repairs for MacBook Pro 14" M2. This repair involves replacing the damaged logic component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 3-6 hours and requires difficult skill level.

🔧 Required Tools

🔩 Replacement Parts

What You'll Need

  • Replacement logic part (OEM or aftermarket)
  • Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
  • Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
  • Adhesive strips or glue
  • Clean workspace with good lighting

Step-by-Step Process

Step 1: Prepare your MacBook for disassembly

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Allow your MacBook's battery to drain below 10% before starting this repair. A charged battery may catch fire if damaged during the repair.

Unplug all cables and fully shut down your MacBook.

Close the lid and flip your MacBook over. Keep the lid closed until you've physically disconnected the battery.

Opening the lid will power on your MacBook. If you're using macOS Big Sur v11.1 or earlier, disable this function using [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Disable+Auto+Boot/110034|new_window=true|this guide].

Step 2: Unfasten the lower case

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Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove the six screws securing the lower case:

Two 6.8 mm screws

Two 5.3 mm screws

Two 3.4 mm screws

Throughout this repair, [https://www.ifixit.com/products/fixmat|keep track of each screw|new_window=true] and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

Step 3: Separate the lower case

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Apply a suction handle near the front edge of the lower case, between the screw holes.

Pull up on the suction handle to create a gap between the lower case and the frame.

Step 4: Release the left clips

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Insert an opening pick between the lower case and the frame.

Slide the pick around the left corner to release the first set of clips.

You'll hear and feel a pop when each clip releases.

Step 5: Release the right clips

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Slide your opening pick around the right corner to release the second set of clips securing the lower case.

Step 6: Pry the lower case up

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Insert your opening pick between the lower case and the frame near the middle left screw hole.

Firmly twist the pick until the clip releases.

Repeat this procedure for the clip near the middle right screw hole.

Step 7: Release the remaining clips

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Firmly pull the lower case away from the screen hinges to release the last clips securing it to the frame.

This motion requires significant force. Don't pull the lower case up, as you may bend the clips.

If it feels stuck, pull one corner at a time.

Step 8: Remove the lower case

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Remove the lower case.

To reinstall the lower case:

Set it in place and align the sliding clips near the display hinges. Press down and slide the lower case toward the hinges.

Once the lower case is secured near the hinges, press down firmly to engage the remaining four clips.

You'll hear and feel a pop when each clip engages.

Step 9: Remove the battery board cover

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Use [product|IF145-020-4|blunt nose tweezers] or your fingers to peel and remove the cover from the battery board, just above the middle battery cell.

Step 10: Disconnect the battery data cable

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Use blunt nose tweezers to gently peel back the pull tab covering the battery data connector.

Don't remove or tear the pull tab, as it's attached to the head of the connector.

Step 11:

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Use the point of a spudger to flip up the small locking tab securing the battery data connector.

Locking tabs on [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s64969|ZIF connectors] are fragile—be gentle with your spudger.

Step 12:

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Use blunt nose tweezers or your fingers to grab the battery data cable pull tab and slide it straight out of its socket.

Move the cable to the left, out of the way of the battery board.

Don't strain the cable, as it's still attached to the battery board.

Step 13: Unfasten the battery connector

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Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm screw securing the battery connector.

Step 14: Disconnect the battery

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Use the flat end of your spudger to slightly lift the battery connector away from the battery board.

Lifting the connector too high will break it. Angle it enough so it won't accidentally contact the battery board during repair.

Optionally, you may insert a barrier, such as a piece of a playing card, between the connector and the board during the repair.

Step 15: Remove the trackpad cable bracket

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Use your T5 Torx driver to remove the two 1.9 mm screws securing the trackpad cable bracket.

Remove the bracket.

Step 16: Disconnect the trackpad

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Use the flat end of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the trackpad cable from the logic board.

Step 17: Heat the trackpad cable

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Apply a [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the trackpad cable for one minute.

Step 18: Reposition the trackpad cable

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Use your fingers to peel the trackpad cable from the battery.

Fold the cable over the front edge of the MacBook.

Don't strain the cable, as it's still connected to the trackpad.

Step 19: Unfasten the trackpad

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Use your T5 Torx driver to remove the ten screws securing the trackpad:

Two 4.3 mm screws

Eight 5.8 mm screws

Step 20: Remove the trackpad

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Open your MacBook by lifting the body away from the display and trackpad.

Feed the trackpad cable through its cutout in the frame.

Before reinstalling the trackpad, thread the trackpad cable through the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/hyCH2WRsX1CrWI2y.huge|new_window=true|narrower of two slots] at the base of the frame.

Step 21:

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Remove the trackpad from the display.

Be careful not to lose the six small washers from the trackpad screw posts:

Four rectangular washers

Two circular washers

Step 22: Uncover the left battery board screw

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Use [product|IF145-020-4|blunt nose tweezers] or your fingers to remove the rubber cover adhered to the left battery board screw.

Step 23: Remove the battery data cable

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Use the point of a spudger to flip up the small locking tab securing the battery data connector.

Use blunt nose tweezers or your fingers to grab near the head of the cable and slide it straight out of its socket.

Remove the cable.

Step 24: Unfasten the battery board

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Use your T5 Torx driver to remove the two 3.1 mm screws securing the battery board.

Step 25: Reposition the battery board

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Insert the flat end of your spudger between the top edge of the battery board and the frame.

Lift the board from its recess.

Be careful not to catch on the battery connector.

Step 26: Protect the display

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Liquid adhesive remover may damage the antireflective coating on your MacBook's display.

Open your MacBook's lid and place a sheet of aluminum foil between the display and keyboard. Leave it in place while you remove the battery.

Place an absorbent towel under the trackpad's recess to soak up any excess adhesive remover.

Close the lid and continue disassembly.

Step 27: Use skin and eye protection

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iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.

Wear eye protection when handling adhesive remover.

Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.

Put on gloves to prevent skin irritation.

Step 28: Prepare the adhesive remover

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Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover.

Twist to loosen or remove the bottle cap before you cut the applicator tip.

This unseals the bottle and allows the pressure to equalize before you cut the applicator tip. '''If you skip this step, the adhesive remover may spray out unexpectedly when the tip is cut.'''

Use scissors to cut off the sealed tip of the applicator.

Cutting close to the narrow tip will give you better control so you can apply the adhesive remover in small amounts.

Twist and close the bottle cap securely before you proceed.

Step 29: Soften the adhesive

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Apply a few drops of adhesive remover under the front edge of the left battery cell.

Step 30:

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Tilt the front edge of your MacBook up to allow the adhesive remover to flow underneath the battery cell.

Wait two minutes for the adhesive to soften.

Step 31: Insert a plastic card

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Slide a [product|IF145-101|plastic card] under the front edge of the left battery cell.

If you can't insert your card, gently twist it to help create a gap.

Step 32: Separate the left battery cell

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Slide your plastic card deeper under the battery cell to separate its adhesive.

Don't force the card under the battery. If it feels stuck, apply a few more drops of adhesive remover and try again.

Step 33:

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Twist your plastic card to lift the battery cell from the frame.

Don't try to remove the cell yet, as it's still attached to the other cells.

Leave your card in place to prevent the cell from readhering while you separate the other cells.

Step 34: Separate the right battery cell

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Separate the right battery cell with your adhesive remover and plastic card, just as you did for the left cell.

Step 35: Soften the adhesive

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Prop up the back edge of your MacBook with a book or similarly-sized object so your adhesive remover flows away from the logic board and under the middle battery cell.

Apply a few drops of adhesive remover to the inside edge of the middle battery cell.

Step 36:

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Apply a few drops of adhesive remover to the sides of the middle battery cell to soften the remaining adhesive.

Wait two minutes for the adhesive to soften.

Step 37: Separate the middle battery cell

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Slide one of your plastic cards under either side of the middle battery cell.

Avoid sliding your card near the battery board or logic board.

If you can't insert your card, gently twist it to help create a gap.

Use your card to separate the battery cell from the frame.

Step 38: Remove the battery

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Lift and remove the battery.

To install a new battery:

Use your fingers to pull off large pieces of adhesive.

Soak any remaining pieces with adhesive remover and scrape them away with your spudger. Clean any residual adhesive remover.

Before removing any adhesive liners, place the new battery into the frame to make sure it fits.

Remove all adhesive liners and firmly press each cell into place.

📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.

iFixit Difficulty: Difficult | Time: NaNh NaNm

DIY vs Professional Repair

✋ DIY Repair

  • ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $180-$480)
  • ✅ Learn new skills
  • ❌ Risk of further damage
  • ❌ No warranty
  • ❌ Requires tools and time

🔧 Professional Repair

  • ✅ Expert installation
  • ✅ Warranty included
  • ✅ Faster turnaround
  • ❌ Higher cost ($300-$800)
  • ❌ Need to find reputable shop

Environmental Impact

By choosing to repair your MacBook Pro 14" M2 instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 270 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new MacBook Pro 14" M2 generates 290 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 20 kg of CO₂. That's a 93% reduction in carbon emissions!

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