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MacBook Pro 14" 2015 Logic Board Repair

Complete guide to MacBook Pro 14" 2015 logic board repair. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.

💰 Cost:$300 - $800
⏱️ Time:3-6 hours
🌍 CO₂ Saved:270 kg

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💰 Cost Breakdown

Parts$180 - $480
Labor$120 - $320
Total Estimated Cost$300 - $800

💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.

🔧 Repair Overview

Logic Board Repair is one of the most common repairs for MacBook Pro 14" 2015. This repair involves replacing the damaged logic component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 3-6 hours and requires difficult skill level.

🔧 Required Tools

🔩 Replacement Parts

What You'll Need

  • Replacement logic part (OEM or aftermarket)
  • Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
  • Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
  • Adhesive strips or glue
  • Clean workspace with good lighting

Step-by-Step Process

Step 1:

Step 1 - Image 1

Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

Two 2.3 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

Eight 3.0 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

Throughout this repair, [https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Magnetic-Project-Mat/IF145-167-4|keep track of each screw|new_window=true] and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

Step 2:

Step 2 - Image 1

Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.

Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case to remove it.

Step 3:

Step 3 - Image 1
Step 3 - Image 2

The lower case is connected to the upper case with two plastic clips near its center.

During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.

Step 4:

Step 4 - Image 1

If necessary, remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.

Step 5:

Step 5 - Image 1
Step 5 - Image 2

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, '''not''' the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board.

Step 6:

Step 6 - Image 1

Bend the battery connector up out of the way to prevent accidental contact with its socket during your repair.

Step 7:

Step 7 - Image 1
Step 7 - Image 2

Carefully remove the rubber fan bumper from the edge of the heat sink.

The fan bumper wraps around the heat sink and fits into slots in the fan duct. During reassembly, be sure to fit the tabs into the notches in the fan duct.

Step 8:

Step 8 - Image 1
Step 8 - Image 2

Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the four foam stickers off of the heat sink screws.

Step 9:

Step 9 - Image 1

Remove the following screws securing the heat sink to the logic board:

One 2.7 mm T5 screw (silver)

Four T5 screws (black)

Step 10:

Step 10 - Image 1
Step 10 - Image 2

Remove the heat sink from the laptop.

When reassembling your computer, follow our [guide|744|thermal paste application guide] to reapply the thermal paste.

Step 11:

Step 11 - Image 1
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Use the tip of a spudger to push on either side of the the iSight camera cable connector to ''walk'' it out of its socket on the logic board.

Step 12:

Step 12 - Image 1
Step 12 - Image 2

Peel the iSight camera cable off the fan housing to fold it out of the way.

Step 13:

Step 13 - Image 1
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Use the tip of a spudger to flip the tab on the fan's ZIF connector.

Carefully pull the fan cable straight out of its socket.

Step 14:

Step 14 - Image 1

Remove the following screws securing the fan to the upper case:

One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw

Two 3.6 mm T5 Torx screws

Step 15:

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Step 15 - Image 2

Lift the end of the fan closest to the display hinge and remove the fan from the upper case.

Step 16:

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Remove the two 2.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board cable bracket to the logic board.

Remove the I/O board cable bracket.

Step 17:

Step 17 - Image 1
Step 17 - Image 2

Use the flat end of a spudger to pop the I/O board connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.

Be careful to only pry up on the I/O board cable, '''not''' on the socket itself or you risk damaging your logic board.

Step 18:

Step 18 - Image 1
Step 18 - Image 2

Lift the logic board end of the I/O board cable straight up to bend it out of the way.

To avoid damage to the cable, fold only at the bend in the I/O board end of the cable.

Step 19:

Step 19 - Image 1
Step 19 - Image 2

Use the tip of a spudger to lift the right speaker connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

Step 20:

Step 20 - Image 1
Step 20 - Image 2

With the tip of a spudger, push on either side of the I/O board connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board.

Step 21:

Step 21 - Image 1
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the keyboard backlight cable and bend it up out of the way of the logic board.

Step 22:

Step 22 - Image 1
Step 22 - Image 2

Grab the black plastic tab to flip the display cable connector open and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board.

Step 23:

Step 23 - Image 1
Step 23 - Image 2

Carefully pull the DC-In board connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.

Step 24:

Step 24 - Image 1
Step 24 - Image 2

Wedge the flat end of a spudger under the left speaker cable near the connector and lift it straight up out of its socket and fold it out of the way.

Step 25:

Step 25 - Image 1
Step 25 - Image 2

If necessary, peel back any tape covering the microphone cable ZIF connector.

Step 26:

Step 26 - Image 1
Step 26 - Image 2

Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the microphone cable ZIF connector.

Pull the microphone cable out of its socket on the logic board.

Step 27:

Step 27 - Image 1
Step 27 - Image 2

If necessary, peel back any tape covering the keyboard cable connector.

Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector.

Step 28:

Step 28 - Image 1
Step 28 - Image 2

Pull the keyboard cable straight out of its ZIF socket on the logic board.

Step 29:

Step 29 - Image 1
Step 29 - Image 2

Use the flat end of a spudger to pop the trackpad connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.

Fold the cable out back over the battery to clear the way for the logic board.

Step 30:

Step 30 - Image 1

Remove the five 3.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.

Step 31:

Step 31 - Image 1
Step 31 - Image 2

Lift the processor end of the logic board up slightly and pull it toward the fan recess to free the ports from the edge of the upper case.

Remove the logic board.

Step 32:

Step 32 - Image 1

Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

Step 33:

Step 33 - Image 1
Step 33 - Image 2

Lift the free end of the SSD up slightly and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board.

📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.

iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm

DIY vs Professional Repair

✋ DIY Repair

  • ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $180-$480)
  • ✅ Learn new skills
  • ❌ Risk of further damage
  • ❌ No warranty
  • ❌ Requires tools and time

🔧 Professional Repair

  • ✅ Expert installation
  • ✅ Warranty included
  • ✅ Faster turnaround
  • ❌ Higher cost ($300-$800)
  • ❌ Need to find reputable shop

Environmental Impact

By choosing to repair your MacBook Pro 14" 2015 instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 270 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new MacBook Pro 14" 2015 generates 290 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 20 kg of CO₂. That's a 93% reduction in carbon emissions!

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