MacBook Air 15" 2020 Battery Replacement
Complete guide to MacBook Air 15" 2020 battery replacement. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.
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💰 Cost Breakdown
💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.
🔧 Repair Overview
Battery Replacement is one of the most common repairs for MacBook Air 15" 2020. This repair involves replacing the damaged power component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 30 min - 1 hour and requires moderate skill level.
What You'll Need
- Replacement power part (OEM or aftermarket)
- Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
- Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
- Adhesive strips or glue
- Clean workspace with good lighting
Step-by-Step Process
Step 1: Remove the screws securing the lower case
Before starting this procedure, you should disable your Mac's '''Auto Boot''' feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Disable+Auto+Boot/110034|Use this guide|new_window=true] to disable Auto Boot.
If your MacBook is running Big Sur v11.1 or later, disabling Auto Boot may not work. You can proceed normally, but make sure to disconnect the battery as soon as you're inside.
Completely power off and unplug your MacBook before you start. Close the display and flip the entire laptop upside-down.
Use a P5 driver to remove the following screws:
Two 7.9 mm screws
Two 7.3 mm screws
Six 2.6 mm screws
Throughout this repair, [https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Magnetic-Project-Mat/IF145-167-4|keep track of each screw|new_window=true] and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your MacBook.
Step 2: Remove the lower case
Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop off the lower case.
Remove the lower case.
To reinstall the lower case:
Set it in place and press firmly to engage the two hidden clips underneath. You should feel and hear them snap into place.
Step 3: Disconnect the battery
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and unlatch the metal locking arm on the battery connector.
Make sure the metal arm is completely free of the locking tab before lifting the battery connector. The metal locking arm should easily unlatch.
Lift straight up on the metal locking arm to pull the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.
During reassembly, press the battery connector straight down into its socket, making sure it sits flush within the socket.
If necessary, push the rear, wire side of the connector into place first, then rock the front of the connector into place.
Step 4: Remove the audio board connector cover
Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the three 1.4 mm screws securing the audio board connector cover.
If your T3 bit feels a bit too loose, you may need to use a T4.
Step 5:
Remove the audio board connector cover.
Step 6: Disconnect the right speaker connector
The '''right''' speaker will be on your '''lefthand side''' when working on the MacBook, as it's laying upside down.
Slide the pointed end of a spudger underneath the right speaker cable and pry straight up to disconnect it from the audio board.
Step 7: Remove the right speaker screw
Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the 4.2 mm screw securing the right speaker to the case.
Step 8: Remove the speaker's stretch-release adhesive
Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to peel back the black pull tab on the speaker's stretch-release adhesive until you can grip it with your fingers.
Step 9:
Grab the adhesive strip's pull tab and slowly pull the adhesive strip out from underneath the speaker.
Keep the angle of the adhesive strip as parallel to the laptop as you can. Try to avoid dragging it across the inside of the case.
Pull the adhesive strip until it's freed from under the speaker.
If the adhesive strip breaks, use a [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true], a heat gun, or a hair dryer to help remove the adhesive:
Apply heat to the speaker to soften the adhesive underneath.
Carefully slide a spudger or opening pick underneath the speaker to separate the adhesive.
Step 10: Remove the right speaker
Remove the right speaker.
During reassembly, to ensure the speaker performs as expected, install a strip of [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Tesa-61395-Tape/IF317-072?o=5|replacement adhesive|new_window=true] on its underside before placing it back into the case.
Step 11: Disconnect the left speaker connector
The '''left''' speaker will be on your '''righthand side''' when working on the MacBook, as it's laying upside down.
Slide the pointed end of a spudger underneath the left speaker cable and pry straight up to disconnect it from the logic board.
Step 12: Remove the left speaker screw
Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the 4.2 mm screw securing the left speaker to the case.
If your T3 bit feels a bit too loose, you may need to use a T4.
Step 13: Remove the speaker's stretch-release adhesive
Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to peel back the black pull tab on the speaker's stretch-release adhesive until you can grip it with your fingers.
Step 14:
Grab the adhesive strip's pull tab and slowly pull the adhesive strip out from underneath the speaker.
Keep the angle of the adhesive strip as parallel to the laptop as you can. Try to avoid dragging it across the inside of the case.
Pull the adhesive strip until it's freed from under the speaker.
If the adhesive strip breaks, use a [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true], a heat gun, or a hair dryer to help remove the adhesive:
Apply heat to the speaker to soften the adhesive underneath.
Carefully slide a spudger or opening pick underneath the speaker to separate the adhesive.
Step 15: Remove the left speaker
Remove the left speaker.
During reassembly, to ensure the speaker performs as expected, install a strip of [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Tesa-61395-Tape/IF317-072?o=5|replacement adhesive|new_window=true] on its underside before placing it back into the case.
Step 16: Remove the trackpad cable cover
Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.4 mm screws securing the trackpad cable cover.
Step 17:
Remove the trackpad cable cover.
Step 18: Disconnect the trackpad cable
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad cable connector up and out of its socket.
Step 19:
The trackpad cable is secured to the battery with some light adhesive.
Carefully peel the trackpad cable off of the battery.
Alternatively, you can gently slide an [product|IF145-123|opening pick|new_window=true] under the cable to separate the adhesive, being very careful not to damage the battery.
Step 20: Remove the battery tray screws
Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.6 mm screws securing the battery tray to the case.
Step 21: Remove the battery tray adhesive strips
The MacBook's battery cells are attached to a metal tray as a complete assembly, which is adhered to the case with a total of six stretch-release adhesive strips.
Don't attempt to remove the battery cells from their metal backing tray.
On the left side of the MacBook, use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to peel back the three black pull tabs on the battery's stretch-release adhesive strips until you can grip them with your fingers.
Step 22:
Grab an adhesive strip's pull tab and slowly pull it out from underneath the battery.
Keep the angle of the adhesive strip as parallel to the laptop as you can. Try to avoid dragging it across the inside of the case.
Pull the adhesive strip until it's freed from under the battery.
Repeat for the two remaining adhesive strips on the battery's left side.
Step 23:
Repeat and remove the three adhesive strips from the right side of the battery.
If any of the six adhesive strips broke during removal, you can use a [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Plastic-Cards/IF145-101?o=1|plastic card|new_window=true] to finish separating the battery tray from the case.
Step 24: Remove the battery
Remove the battery assembly.
If you're installing a new battery, follow the [[Battery Calibration|calibration]] procedure:
Charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours.
Unplug and use it normally to drain the battery.
When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery.
Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.
📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.
iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm
DIY vs Professional Repair
✋ DIY Repair
- ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $30-$120)
- ✅ Learn new skills
- ❌ Risk of further damage
- ❌ No warranty
- ❌ Requires tools and time
🔧 Professional Repair
- ✅ Expert installation
- ✅ Warranty included
- ✅ Faster turnaround
- ❌ Higher cost ($50-$200)
- ❌ Need to find reputable shop
Environmental Impact
By choosing to repair your MacBook Air 15" 2020 instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 185 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new MacBook Air 15" 2020 generates 190 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 5 kg of CO₂. That's a 97% reduction in carbon emissions!
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