MacBook Air 15" 2019 Keyboard Replacement
Complete guide to MacBook Air 15" 2019 keyboard replacement. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.
🌍 Share Your Environmental Impact
Inspire others to repair instead of replace! Share how much CO₂ you're saving.
💰 Cost Breakdown
💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.
🔧 Repair Overview
Keyboard Replacement is one of the most common repairs for MacBook Air 15" 2019. This repair involves replacing the damaged input component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 2-4 hours and requires difficult skill level.
What You'll Need
- Replacement input part (OEM or aftermarket)
- Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
- Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
- Adhesive strips or glue
- Clean workspace with good lighting
Step-by-Step Process
Step 1: Remove the screws securing the lower case
Before starting this procedure, you should disable your Mac's '''Auto Boot''' feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Disable+Auto+Boot/110034|Use this guide|new_window=true] to disable Auto Boot.
If your MacBook is running Big Sur v11.1 or later, disabling Auto Boot may not work. You can proceed normally, but make sure to disconnect the battery as soon as you're inside.
Completely power off and unplug your MacBook Air before you start. Close the display and flip the entire laptop upside-down.
Use a P5 driver to remove the following screws:
Two 7.9 mm screws
Two 7.1 mm screws
Six 2.6 mm screws
Step 2: Remove the lower case
Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.
Remove the lower case.
After reassembly, your MacBook might not turn on until it's connected to a power source (a low power phone charger may work). To test your repair, plug in your charger, allow two minutes for your MacBook to turn on, and check that everything works as expected.
Step 3: Disconnect the battery
Peel back the tape covering the battery connector enough to reveal the connector underneath.
Step 4:
Use a spudger to slide the battery connector parallel to the logic board and out of its socket on the logic board.
Step 5: Remove the right speaker adhesive
Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to lift up the black adhesive pull tab at the bottom of the right speaker, enough so you can grab it with your fingers.
Grab the adhesive strip pull tab and slowly and carefully pull the adhesive strip out from under the speaker.
Keep the angle of the adhesive strip as parallel to the laptop as you can. Try to avoid dragging it across the inside of the case.
If the adhesive strip breaks, leave it in and proceed to the next step.
Step 6:
Slide the tip of a spudger underneath the right speaker cable and pry straight up to disconnect the speaker.
Step 7:
Use tweezers to lift the adhesive pull tab at the top of the right speaker enough that you can grab it with your fingers.
Grab the adhesive strip pull tab and slowly and carefully pull the adhesive strip out from under the speaker.
Keep the angle of the adhesive strip as parallel to the laptop as you can. Try to avoid dragging it across the inside of the case.
If the adhesive strip breaks, or if the first adhesive strip broke, use a [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] or heat gun to help remove the adhesive:
Apply heat to the speaker to soften the adhesive underneath.
Carefully slide a spudger or opening pick underneath the speaker to separate the adhesive.
Step 8: Remove the right speaker
Lift the right speaker straight up from the bottom and remove it.
Step 9: Remove the left speaker adhesive
Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to lift up the black adhesive pull tab at the bottom of the left speaker, enough so you can grab it with your fingers.
Grab the adhesive strip pull tab and slowly and carefully pull the adhesive strip out from under the speaker.
Keep the angle of the adhesive strip as parallel to the laptop as you can. Try to avoid dragging it across the inside of the case.
If the adhesive strip breaks, leave it in and proceed to the next step.
Step 10:
Slide the tip of a spudger underneath the left speaker cable and pry straight up to disconnect the speaker.
With the connector disconnected, slide the flat end of a spudger under the cable to separate the adhesive securing the cable to the logic board.
Step 11:
Use tweezers to lift the adhesive pull tab at the top of the left speaker enough that you can grab it with your fingers.
Grab the adhesive strip pull tab and slowly and carefully pull the adhesive strip out from under the speaker.
Keep the angle of the adhesive strip as parallel to the laptop as you can. Try to avoid dragging it across the inside of the case.
If the adhesive strip breaks, or if the first adhesive strip broke, use a [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] or heat gun to help remove the adhesive:
Apply heat to the speaker to soften the adhesive underneath.
Carefully slide a spudger or opening pick underneath the speaker to separate the adhesive.
Step 12: Remove the left speaker
Lift the left speaker straight up from the bottom and remove it.
Step 13: Disconnect the logic board
Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.4 mm screws securing the trackpad connector bracket.
Depending on the condition of your bits, a T4 Torx driver may fit better.
Remove the trackpad connector bracket.
Step 14:
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad cable connector up and out of its socket.
Step 15:
If the left speaker is already disconnected, skip this step.
Slide the tip of a spudger underneath the left speaker cable and pry straight up to disconnect the speaker.
With the connector disconnected, slide the flat end of a spudger under the cable to separate the adhesive securing the cable to the logic board.
Step 16:
Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.3 mm screws securing the USB-C port connector bracket.
Remove the USB-C connector bracket.
Step 17:
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the USB-C cable connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.
Step 18:
Use a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the sound board cable's [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s64969|ZIF connector|new_window=true].
Slide the sound board cable out of the ZIF connector.
Step 19:
Peel back the black tape covering the fan cable connector.
Step 20:
Use the tip of a spudger to lift up the locking flap on the fan cable's ZIF connector.
Slide the fan cable out of the ZIF connector.
Step 21:
Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.4 mm screws securing the antenna cable bracket.
Remove the antenna cable bracket.
Step 22:
Insert the point of a spudger under one of the antenna cables close to the connector. Pry straight up to disconnect the cable.
Repeat for the other antenna cable.
Step 23:
Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.5 mm screws securing the display cable connector bracket.
Remove the display cable connector bracket.
Step 24:
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the display cable connector.
Step 25: Unscrew the logic board
Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the following screws:
One 5.5 mm screw
Three 2.6 mm screws
Two 1.9 mm screws
Step 26: Remove the logic board
Remove the logic board.
Step 27: Separate the trackpad cable adhesive
Carefully slide an opening pick under the trackpad cable towards the keyboard connector to separate the adhesive securing it to the upper case.
If you have difficulty separating the adhesive, heat it slightly with an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive.
Step 28: Disconnect the keyboard
Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the small locking flap on the keyboard ZIF connector.
The trackpad cable connects the logic board to both the keyboard and the trackpad.
Slide the keyboard cable straight out of its connector.
Step 29: Separate the trackpad cable adhesive
Carefully slide an opening pick under the trackpad cable to separate the adhesive securing it to the battery.
If you have difficulty separating the adhesive, heat it slightly with an iOpener or hair dryer. Be careful not to overheat the battery.
Step 30: Unscrew the battery
Use a T3 Torx driver to remove four 2.5 mm screws securing the battery.
Step 31: Remove the battery adhesive
Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to lift up the black adhesive pull tab on the side of the battery, enough so you can grab it with your fingers.
Grab the adhesive strip pull tab and slowly and carefully pull the adhesive strip out from under the battery.
Keep the angle of the adhesive strip as parallel to the laptop as you can. Try to avoid dragging it across the inside of the case.
If the adhesive strip breaks, leave it in and proceed to the next step.
Step 32:
Repeat the previous step to remove the next two adhesive strips on the same side of the battery.
If any adhesive strips break, leave them in and proceed to the next step.
Step 33:
Repeat the previous two steps to remove the three adhesive strips on the other side of the battery.
If any of the adhesive strips broke, you can use high-concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol to help remove them:
Carefully drip isopropyl alcohol along either edge of the battery, in the recessed part of the upper case, where the adhesive pull tabs were.
Applying too much alcohol or applying it outside of the wells in the case where the adhesive sits risks damaging other components.
Let the alcohol soak into the adhesive for a minute or two.
Use opening picks to gently pry the battery away from the upper case.
Step 34: Remove the battery
Remove the battery.
If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to [https://support.apple.com/en-gb/HT201295|reset your MacBook's SMC|new_window=true].
📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.
iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm
DIY vs Professional Repair
✋ DIY Repair
- ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $120-$360)
- ✅ Learn new skills
- ❌ Risk of further damage
- ❌ No warranty
- ❌ Requires tools and time
🔧 Professional Repair
- ✅ Expert installation
- ✅ Warranty included
- ✅ Faster turnaround
- ❌ Higher cost ($200-$600)
- ❌ Need to find reputable shop
Environmental Impact
By choosing to repair your MacBook Air 15" 2019 instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 175 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new MacBook Air 15" 2019 generates 190 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 15 kg of CO₂. That's a 92% reduction in carbon emissions!
Get a Personalized Repair Estimate
Upload a photo of your MacBook Air 15" 2019 and get an AI-powered cost estimate in seconds. See exactly what's damaged and how much it'll cost to fix.