iPhone XR Speaker Repair

Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

Remove the two 6.7 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.

Opening the iPhone will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

There's a black rubber gasket just beneath the head on each pentalobe screw. For maximum protection against dust and liquid, check the condition of the gaskets or replace the screws during reassembly.

If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.

Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.

You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.

Alternatively, [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/pQGATIGUbViSB4gB.full|tape a coin to a pick|new_window=true] 3 mm from the tip.

If your iPhone has a cracked screen, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.

Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the whole face is covered.

Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead.

If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the screen.

The next three steps demonstrate the [product|IF145-513|Anti-Clamp], a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. ***If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.***

For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, [guide|152309|check out this guide|new_window=true].

Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.

Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.

Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.

Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.

If you find that the surface of your iPhone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can [guide|159595|use tape|new_window=true] to create a grippier surface.

Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.

Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.

Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

You can also use a [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Hair+Dryer+to+Soften+Adhesive/157348|new_window=true|hair dryer], [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Heat+Gun+to+Soften+Adhesive/151116|new_window=true|heat gun], or hot plate—but extreme heat can damage the display and/or internal battery, so proceed with care.

Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the iPhone.

Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.

Insert an opening pick under the screen and the plastic bezel, ***not the screen itself***.

If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle a quarter turn.

Don't crank more than a quarter turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.

***Skip the next three steps.***

Heating the lower edge of the iPhone helps soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

Use a hairdryer or heat gun, or [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|prepare an iOpener|new_window=true] and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

If you're using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

Insert an opening pick under the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/OCwqLCPWJbdtHHWa.full|new_window=true|screen and the plastic bezel], ***not the screen itself***.

The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.

Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage internal components.

There are delicate cables along the right edge of your iPhone. ***Don't insert your pick at the marked spots***, as you may damage the cables.

Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.

Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage the display cables.

The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips.

Slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, while gently pulling or wiggling the display '''''down''''' in the direction of the Lightning port.

The clips will break if you use too much force. Work carefully and be patient.

Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage the front panel sensor array.

Slide the pick to the opposite corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.

Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn't click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren't bent.

Remove three 1.2 mm Y000 screws securing the battery connector cover bracket.

Remove the bracket.

Throughout this repair, [https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Magnetic-Project-Mat/IF145-167-4|keep track of each screw|new_window=true] and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up out of its socket.

Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.

Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

Remove the two 1.2 mm Y000 screws securing the display connector bracket.

Remove the bracket.

Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the digitizer cable.

To re-attach [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+%26+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s70308|press connectors|new_window=true] like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

If any part of your screen doesn't respond to touch after your repair, disconnect the battery and then re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there's no dust or other obstruction in the socket.

Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the display cable connector.

Remove the five screws securing the logic board connector bracket to the rear case:

One 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw

One 1.5 mm Phillips #000 screw

Three 1.2 mm Y000 screws

Remove the bracket.

Be careful not to lose the [https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/BLoNCtTggDqOfLxl|smaller bracket|new_window=true] clipped onto the edge. It's secured with a [https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/XcoV2gOk5ISoxJLN|small clip|new_window=true] and is easy to accidentally knock off of the larger bracket.

The shield is made of two parts, the smaller part is very easy to damage. If broken the NFC of the phone will not function. See comments below for different suggestions on how to avoid damage.

Use the tip of a spudger to pry the front sensor assembly connector up from its socket.

Remove the display assembly.

During reassembly, pause here if you wish to [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iPhone+Display+Adhesive+Replacement/93983|replace the waterproof adhesive around the edges of the display|new_window=true].

Remove the seven screws securing the bracket below the Taptic engine and speaker:

Three Phillips 1.4 mm screws

Two Phillips 1.7 mm screws

One Phillips 1.9 mm screw

One Phillips 1.6 mm screw

Lift the bracket from the edge nearest the battery. Don't try to fully remove it, as it's still connected via a small flex cable.

While holding the bracket out of the way, use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the flex cable underneath.

Remove the bracket.

Remove the piece of black tape and the small rubber rectangle covering the Taptic Engine connector cover.

Remove the five screws securing the lower speaker:

One 2.8 mm standoff screw

Standoff screws are best removed using a dedicated [https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Standoff-Screwdriver-for-iPhones/IF145-388?o=4|standoff driver|new_window=true] or driver bit.

In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

One 2.3 mm standoff screw

One 2.3 mm Phillips screw

One 1.8 mm Phillips screw

One 1.6 mm Phillips screw

Remove the small bracket on the top right corner of the speaker.

Remove the Taptic Engine connector cover.

Insert a spudger under the top edge of the speaker near the edge of the iPhone's case.

Gently pry up and lift the top edge of the speaker.

Hold the speaker by its side edges and rock it side-to-side, separating the adhesive securing it to the bottom edge of the iPhone.

Pull the speaker away from the bottom edge of the iPhone until the adhesive gasket separates.

Remove the speaker.

The speaker's adhesive gasket is not reusable. Peel away any remaining adhesive residue with [product|IF145-020|tweezers].

To help protect against water and dust intrusion, replace the adhesive gasket during reassembly. Prep the area by cleaning it with a bit of isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth or coffee filter so that the gasket adheres properly. Install a new gasket onto the speaker, and then install the speaker.