iPhone 8 Plus Camera Repair

Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

Remove the two 3.5 mm pentalobe screws from the bottom edge of the iPhone.

Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have [https://www.ifixit.com/Store/iPhone/iPhone-8-Plus-Display-Assembly-Adhesive/IF372-005-1|replacement seals|new_window=true] ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.

Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.

You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.

Alternatively, [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/pQGATIGUbViSB4gB.full|tape a coin to a pick|new_window=true] 3 mm from the tip.

If your iPhone has a cracked screen, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.

Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the whole face is covered.

Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead.

If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the screen.

The next three steps demonstrate the [product|IF145-513|Anti-Clamp], a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. ***If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.***

For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, [guide|152309|check out this guide|new_window=true].

Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.

Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.

Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone just above the home button—one on the front, and one on the back.

Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.

If you find that the surface of your iPhone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can [guide|159595|use tape|new_window=true] to create a grippier surface.

Pull the blue handle forwards to lock the arms.

Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.

Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

You can also use a [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Hair+Dryer+to+Soften+Adhesive/157348|new_window=true|hair dryer], [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Heat+Gun+to+Soften+Adhesive/151116|new_window=true|heat gun], or hot plate—but extreme heat can damage the display and/or internal battery, so proceed with care.

Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the iPhone.

Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.

Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.

If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle a quarter turn.

Don't crank more than a quarter turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.

***Skip the next three steps.***

The next three steps show how to separate the screen using a suction cup.

Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

Use a hairdryer or [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|prepare an iOpener|new_window=true] and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about 90 seconds in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button.

Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

Insert an opening pick or other thin pry tool a few millimeters into the gap.

The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

Slide your pick around the corner and up the left edge of the phone, moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.

Stop near the top left corner of the display.

There's a delicate cable along the right edge of your iPhone. ***Don't insert your pick here***, as you may damage the cable.

Re-insert your tool at the lower right corner of the iPhone, and slide it around the corner and up the right side of the phone to separate the adhesive.

Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage the display cables.

Gently pull up on the suction cup to lift up the bottom edge of the display.

'''Do not raise the display more than 15º''' or you'll risk straining or tearing the ribbon cables connecting the display.

Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

Slide an opening pick underneath the display along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.

Slide the display assembly slightly down (away from the top edge of the phone) to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

Remove four Phillips (JIS) screws securing the lower display cable bracket to the logic board, of the following lengths:

Two 1.3 mm screws

One 1.4 mm screw

One 2.7 mm screw

Throughout this guide, [https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Magnetic-Project-Mat/IF145-167-4|keep careful track of your screws] so that each one goes back where it came from during reassembly. Installing a screw in the wrong place can cause permanent damage.

Remove the lower display cable bracket.

Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

Use the tip of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the large lower display connector by prying it straight up from its socket.

To re-attach press connectors like this one, press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

Disconnect the second lower display cable connector, directly behind the one you disconnected in the previous step.

Remove the two tri-point Y000 screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector:

One 1.0 mm screw

One 1.2 mm screw

Remove the bracket covering the front panel sensor assembly connector.

Use the tip of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket.

Remove the display assembly.

During reassembly, pause here if you wish to [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iPhone+Display+Adhesive+Replacement/93983|replace the adhesive around the edges of the display|new_window=true].

Remove the five Phillips screws securing the earpiece speaker bracket:

Two 1.8 mm screws

One 2.3 mm screw

One 2.4 mm screw

One 2.8 mm screw

Remove the earpiece speaker bracket.

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the front-facing camera from its housing.

Gently bend the camera ribbon cable to the side to clear the way to the earpiece speaker underneath.

Remove the earpiece speaker.

Gently fold the camera and attached ribbon cable toward the bottom of the iPhone to allow access to the components underneath.

Use a hairdryer or heat gun or [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|prepare an iOpener|new_window=true] and apply it to the top front of the display for about a minute, in order to soften the adhesive securing the sensors.

The sensors in the following steps are fragile. To increase your chances of removing them without damage, repeatedly add more heat as needed. Alternatively, add a drop or two of isopropyl alcohol and let it penetrate under the sensors before you pry them up.

Slide a spudger under the ambient light sensor flex cable, and lift the sensor out of its housing.

Slide the tip of a spudger underneath the proximity sensor flex cable, and lift the sensor out of its housing.

Insert the sharp edge of an iFixit opening tool underneath the camera assembly's flex cable, on the opposite side from the front-facing camera.

Use an iOpener or hair dryer as needed to heat the top portion of the display and soften the adhesive securing the flex cable.

Pry up to separate the edge of the flex cable from the back of the display.

Insert the point of a spudger underneath the same portion of the flex cable that you separated in the previous step.

Continue separating the remainder of the flex cable, pushing the spudger underneath the row of circular gold earpiece speaker contacts.

Remove the front camera and sensor cable assembly.

A piece of black double-sided insulating tape lies between the display and three rows of copper contacts on the back of the camera/sensor cable. It may remain stuck to the display, or it may come off with the cable.

When reassembling, verify the tape is in place, or else cover the contacts on the back of the cable with an appropriate tape, such as Kapton tape.