iPhone 6s Volume Button Repair

Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

Remove the two 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone, on either side of the Lightning connector.

The next two steps demonstrate the [product|IF145-513|Anti-Clamp], a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. ***If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.***

For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, [guide|152309|check out this guide|new_window=true].

Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.

Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.

Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone just above the home button—one on the front, and one on the back.

Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.

If you find that the surface of your iPhone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can [guide|159595|use tape|new_window=true] to create a grippier surface.

Pull the blue handle forwards to lock the arms.

Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.

Make sure the suction cups [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/BSluctHhVVqhGtfj.full|new_window=true|remain aligned with each other]. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.

If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, rotate the handle a quarter turn.

***Don't crank more than a quarter turn at a time***, and wait a few seconds between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.

***Skip the next three steps.***

If you don't have an [product|IF145-513|Anti-Clamp], follow the next three steps to use a suction handle.

Apply mild heat to the lower edge of the iPhone using an [guide|25705|iOpener] or hair dryer for about a minute.

Heat softens the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

Opening the display on the 6s separates a thin strip of adhesive around the perimeter of the display. If you prefer to replace the adhesive, have a set of new adhesive strips ready before you continue. It's possible to complete the repair without replacing the adhesive, and you probably won't notice any difference in functionality.

Apply a suction cup to the lower left corner of the display assembly.

Take care '''not''' to place the suction cup over the home button.

If your display is badly cracked, [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Taping+Over+The+Display/103486|covering it with a layer of clear packing tape|new_window=true] may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices and is held down with adhesive.

Pulling too hard may damage the display assembly. Apply just enough pressure to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

If you have any trouble, heat the front of the iPhone using an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun until it's slightly too hot to touch. This will help soften the adhesive securing the edges of the display.

There is a notch on the underside of the display, just above the headphone jack. This is the safest place to begin prying the phone open.

Place the flat edge of a spudger into the gap between the screen and rear case, directly above the headphone jack.

Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the front panel assembly and the rest of the phone.

Insert the flat end of the spudger on the left side of the phone, between the display assembly and rear case.

Slide the spudger up the side of the phone to separate the adhesive and pop the clips free.

Remove the spudger and reinsert it on the bottom edge, where you pried the phone open.

Slide the spudger to the right, along the bottom edge of the phone.

Slide the spudger up the right side to continue separating the adhesive and popping the display clips free from the iPhone.

Use the suction cup to open the display, breaking the last of the adhesive.

Don't open the display more than 90º, as it is still connected at the top by three cables that may break if stretched.

Pull up on the nub on the top side of the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

Gently grasp the display assembly and lift it up to open the phone, using the clips at the top of the front panel as a hinge.

Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to hold the display.

During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the adhesive around the edges of the display.

During reassembly, the camera end of the screen body needs to hook under the edge of the body. The hooks of the screen frame need to be under the rim of the main body and snugged toward the camera end to easily close the cover and have it properly clip.

These hooks are not really a proper hinge but clasps that need to be under the rim of the main phone frame/edge!! This way the screen easily will return to its closed state nicely gently snapping into place.

During reassembly, reverse order for getting the screen clipped back in means pressing along the right side top to bottom corner. Then the left.

Remove two Phillips screws securing the battery connector bracket, of the following lengths:

One 2.9 mm screw

One 2.2 mm screw

Throughout this repair, [https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Magnetic-Project-Mat/IF145-167-4|keep track of each screw|new_window=true] and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

Remove the battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

Push the battery connector away from the logic board until it stays separated from its socket, so as to avoid any accidental connection to the battery while you work.

Remove the following four Phillips screws securing the display cable bracket:

Three 1.2 mm screws

One 2.8 mm screw

Remove the display cable bracket.

Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to disconnect the front camera flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

Disconnect the digitizer cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

When reconnecting the digitizer cable, '''do not press the center of the connector'''. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.

Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step.

Disconnect the display cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

Remove the display assembly.

During reassembly, pause here if you wish to [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iPhone+Display+Adhesive+Replacement/93983|replace the adhesive around the edges of the display|new_window=true].

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear camera from its socket on the logic board.

Remove the following two Phillips screws over the rear camera bracket:

One 1.6 mm screw

One 2.0 mm screw

Remove the camera bracket.

Insert a spudger to the side of the camera, between the rear case and the camera module.

Gently pry up on the camera to nudge it out from its housing.

Remove the camera.

Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

Press to eject the tray.

This may require a significant amount of force.

Remove the SIM Card tray assembly from the iPhone.

When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

Remove the two 2.3 mm Phillips screws securing the upper component cable connector bracket.

Remove the upper component cable connector bracket.

Remove the following five Phillips screws securing the top left Wi-Fi antenna:

Two 1.5mm screws

One 2.3 mm screw

One 1.9 mm screw

One 2.0 mm screw

Remove the top left Wi-Fi antenna.

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the audio control cable from its socket on the logic board.

Use the pointed tip of a spudger to disconnect the antenna cable from its socket on the upper right corner of the logic board.

Use the pointed tip of a spudger to disconnect the antenna cable from its socket on the lower left corner of the logic board.

Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the Lightning connector ribbon cable. Lift up to disconnect it from its socket on the logic board.

Gently pull up on the antenna cable to de-route it from the two clips on the right side of the logic board.

Remove the 1.3 mm Phillips screw securing the NFC bracket to the logic board.

Remove the NFC bracket.

Remove the following two Phillips screws:

One 2.5 mm screw at the top of the logic board

One 1.4 mm screw set into the upper edge of the rear case

Remove the plastic clip.

Remove the final three screws securing the logic board to the rear case:

One 1.9 mm Phillips screw

One 2.5 mm hex nut

One 1.8 mm Phillips screw

Insert an opening pick below the lower edge of the logic board, between the board and the loudspeaker.

Use the opening pick to gently lift the logic board out of its housing.

Remove the logic board.

Remove the two 1.5 mm Phillips screws holding the Taptic Engine in place.

Remove the Taptic Engine.

Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to peel up the tips of the battery adhesive strips at the lower edge of the battery.

Try not to wrinkle the strips during this procedure—they will become very difficult to deal with and will not straighten out again.

Pull one of the adhesive strips straight out, towards the bottom of the iPhone.

For best results, pull the strip at a 60º angle or less.

The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue to pull steadily, re-grabbing the strip closer to the iPhone if necessary.

Continue pulling until the strip is fully removed.

If the battery adhesive tabs break off at any point during the removal process, use your fingers or blunt tweezers to retrieve the remaining length of adhesive, and continue pulling.

If one of the adhesive strips breaks under the battery during this procedure, and cannot be retrieved, remove the remaining strip, and then skip to [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iPhone+6s+Volume+Control-Power+Button+and+Flash+Flex+Cable+Replacement/62577#s131730|Step 48].

Repeat the previous step for the second adhesive strip.

Use one hand to hold down the battery as you remove the second strip, or the strip may fling the battery from the phone once it separates from the rear case.

***If you successfully removed all three adhesive strips, move on to the next step. ***Otherwise, you will need to pry the battery from the rear case.

After about a minute, flip the phone over and use a [product|IF145-101|plastic card] to break up any remaining adhesive behind the battery.

Remove the battery.

When installing the battery, refer to [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iPhone+Battery+Adhesive+Strips+Replacement/56465|this guide] to replace your battery's adhesive strips.

Remove the single 1.3 mm Phillips screw securing the flash bracket.

Remove the flash bracket.

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the flash out of its housing in the rear case.

Remove the following five Phillips screws:

Two 2.5 mm screws set into the left edge of the rear case

One 2.1 mm Phillips #000 screw set into the left edge of the rear case

Two 2.1 mm screws set into the right edge of the rear case

If you overtighten these screws during reassembly, your power and volume buttons may not click properly. Check the clicking action on each button before you continue with reassembly.

Use the pointed tip of a spudger to gently separate the microphone from the rear case.

Slide an opening pick between the upper component cable and the rear case.

Gently separate the cable from the rear case.

Continue pushing the opening pick under the cable until it fully separates from the rear case.

Remove the upper component cable assembly.

If your replacement part did not come with the mute switch cover, you will need to remove the switch cover and transfer It.

Use the flat end of the spudger to press down and hold the old bracket firmly in place.

Use tweezers or your fingers to carefully rock the switch cover such that the switch cover pins swing out of their clips.

Lift the switch cover straight up.

To install the mute switch cover onto the new upper cable assembly, reverse the steps.

The pins are supposed to rest near the clip opening. Do no attempt to force the pins far into the clips. The switch cover will be held securely in place once you screw the bracket back onto the case.

The switch cover goes on in only one orientation. If you are having a hard time getting the switch cover onto the new part, try toggling the switch so that the black protruding lever is in a different position.

Before reassembling the phone, check all switches and buttons to see if they physically work.

Grasp the metal bar behind either of the two volume control button covers, and pull the button cover out of its housing in the rear case.

Repeat for the second volume control button cover.

Check for proper orientation when reinstalling the button covers. The metal bar should swing downward, towards the rear case of the iPhone.