iPhone 6s Charging Port Repair
Complete guide to iPhone 6s charging port repair. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.
🌍 Share Your Environmental Impact
Inspire others to repair instead of replace! Share how much CO₂ you're saving.
💰 Cost Breakdown
💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.
🔧 Repair Overview
Charging Port Repair is one of the most common repairs for iPhone 6s. This repair involves replacing the damaged connectivity component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 30 min - 1 hour and requires easy skill level.
What You'll Need
- Replacement connectivity part (OEM or aftermarket)
- Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
- Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
- Adhesive strips or glue
- Clean workspace with good lighting
Step-by-Step Process
Step 1:
Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
Remove the two 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone, on either side of the Lightning connector.
Step 2: Anti-Clamp instructions
The next two steps demonstrate the [product|IF145-513|Anti-Clamp], a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. ***If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.***
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, [guide|152309|check out this guide|new_window=true].
Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone just above the home button—one on the front, and one on the back.
Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
If you find that the surface of your iPhone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can [guide|159595|use tape|new_window=true] to create a grippier surface.
Step 3:
Pull the blue handle forwards to lock the arms.
Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/BSluctHhVVqhGtfj.full|new_window=true|remain aligned with each other]. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, rotate the handle a quarter turn.
***Don't crank more than a quarter turn at a time***, and wait a few seconds between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
***Skip the next three steps.***
Step 4:
If you don't have an [product|IF145-513|Anti-Clamp], follow the next three steps to use a suction handle.
Apply mild heat to the lower edge of the iPhone using an [guide|25705|iOpener] or hair dryer for about a minute.
Heat softens the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
Step 5:
Opening the display on the 6s separates a thin strip of adhesive around the perimeter of the display. If you prefer to replace the adhesive, have a set of new adhesive strips ready before you continue. It's possible to complete the repair without replacing the adhesive, and you probably won't notice any difference in functionality.
Apply a suction cup to the lower left corner of the display assembly.
Take care '''not''' to place the suction cup over the home button.
If your display is badly cracked, [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Taping+Over+The+Display/103486|covering it with a layer of clear packing tape|new_window=true] may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.
Step 6:
Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices and is held down with adhesive.
Pulling too hard may damage the display assembly. Apply just enough pressure to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.
If you have any trouble, heat the front of the iPhone using an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun until it's slightly too hot to touch. This will help soften the adhesive securing the edges of the display.
Step 7:
There is a notch on the underside of the display, just above the headphone jack. This is the safest place to begin prying the phone open.
Place the flat edge of a spudger into the gap between the screen and rear case, directly above the headphone jack.
Step 8:
Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the front panel assembly and the rest of the phone.
Step 9:
Insert the flat end of the spudger on the left side of the phone, between the display assembly and rear case.
Slide the spudger up the side of the phone to separate the adhesive and pop the clips free.
Step 10:
Remove the spudger and reinsert it on the bottom edge, where you pried the phone open.
Slide the spudger to the right, along the bottom edge of the phone.
Step 11:
Slide the spudger up the right side to continue separating the adhesive and popping the display clips free from the iPhone.
Step 12:
Use the suction cup to open the display, breaking the last of the adhesive.
Don't open the display more than 90º, as it is still connected at the top by three cables that may break if stretched.
Step 13:
Pull up on the nub on the top side of the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
Step 14:
Gently grasp the display assembly and lift it up to open the phone, using the clips at the top of the front panel as a hinge.
Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.
In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to hold the display.
During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the adhesive around the edges of the display.
During reassembly, the camera end of the screen body needs to hook under the edge of the body. The hooks of the screen frame need to be under the rim of the main body and snugged toward the camera end to easily close the cover and have it properly clip.
These hooks are not really a proper hinge but clasps that need to be under the rim of the main phone frame/edge!! This way the screen easily will return to its closed state nicely gently snapping into place.
During reassembly, reverse order for getting the screen clipped back in means pressing along the right side top to bottom corner. Then the left.
Step 15:
Remove two Phillips screws securing the battery connector bracket, of the following lengths:
One 2.9 mm screw
One 2.2 mm screw
Throughout this repair, [https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Magnetic-Project-Mat/IF145-167-4|keep track of each screw|new_window=true] and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.
Step 16:
Remove the battery connector bracket from the iPhone.
Step 17:
Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.
Step 18:
Push the battery connector away from the logic board until it stays separated from its socket, so as to avoid any accidental connection to the battery while you work.
Step 19: Unfasten the display cable bracket
Remove the following four Phillips screws securing the display cable bracket:
Three 1.2 mm screws
One 2.8 mm screw
Step 20:
Remove the display cable bracket.
Step 21:
Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to disconnect the front camera flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.
Step 22:
Disconnect the digitizer cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.
When reconnecting the digitizer cable, '''do not press the center of the connector'''. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.
Step 23:
Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step.
Disconnect the display cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.
Step 24:
Remove the display assembly.
During reassembly, pause here if you wish to [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iPhone+Display+Adhesive+Replacement/93983|replace the adhesive around the edges of the display|new_window=true].
Step 25:
Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to peel back the tips of the two adhesive strips along the bottom edge of the battery.
Use your fingers or blunt tweezers. Be careful when working near the battery; puncturing a lithium-ion battery can release dangerous chemicals and/or cause a fire.
Optionally, you can [guide|55513|remove the Taptic Engine|stepid=120445|new_window=true] now. This will give you better access to the adhesive strips.
Step 26:
Try to keep the strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly.
Slowly pull one battery adhesive tab away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.
To avoid tearing the adhesive strip, be careful not to snag it against the battery or lower components.
Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip until it slips out from between the battery and the rear case. For best results, pull the strip at a 60º angle or less.
The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling and re-grab the strip near the battery if necessary.
Step 27:
Repeat for the second strip.
Hold down the battery as you remove the second strip, or the strip may fling the battery when it separates from the case.
If you removed both adhesive strips successfully, skip to ***step 29***.
If either of the adhesive strips broke off underneath the battery and could not be retrieved, apply a few drops of high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol under the edge of the battery in the area of the broken adhesive strip(s).
Wait about one minute for the alcohol solution to weaken the adhesive. Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery.
Don't try to forcefully lever the battery out. If needed, apply a few more drops of alcohol to further weaken the adhesive. Never deform or puncture the battery with your pry tool.
***Do not*** insert the spudger in the area between the volume down (-) button and the top edge of the battery, or you may damage the volume control cable lying underneath. ***Do not*** pry against the logic board or you may damage the phone.
For alternative methods to unstick the battery, ***continue with the next step below***.
Step 28: Alternative methods to unstick the battery from the case
'''If you successfully removed both adhesive strips, move on to the next step.''' Otherwise, you will need to pry the battery from the rear case.
Then, use a plastic opening tool to gently lift the battery.
Overheating the iPhone may ignite the battery.
Alternatively, a piece of dental floss may be used to separate the battery from the rear case. A stronger alternative to dental floss is an unwound guitar string, such as a 0.009 E string from a 12-string set.
Thread the floss or string behind the upper battery corners, bring the ends together, wrap them around a folded cloth, and pull evenly.
Step 29: Battery Removal
Remove the battery.
If your replacement battery came in a plastic sleeve, remove the sleeve before installation by pulling it away from the ribbon cable.
If there's any alcohol solution remaining in the phone, carefully wipe it off or allow it to air dry before installing your new battery.
Before you adhere the replacement battery, temporarily reconnect the battery connector to the logic board socket. This ensures that the battery is properly aligned in its recess.
Adhere the battery, disconnect it, and continue reassembling your device.
If your new battery doesn’t have adhesive preinstalled, refer to [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iPhone+Battery+Adhesive+Strips+Replacement/56465|this guide] to replace the adhesive strips.
Perform a [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Force+Restart+an+iPhone+6s/62334|forced restart] after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.
📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.
iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm
DIY vs Professional Repair
✋ DIY Repair
- ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $24-$72)
- ✅ Learn new skills
- ❌ Risk of further damage
- ❌ No warranty
- ❌ Requires tools and time
🔧 Professional Repair
- ✅ Expert installation
- ✅ Warranty included
- ✅ Faster turnaround
- ❌ Higher cost ($40-$120)
- ❌ Need to find reputable shop
Environmental Impact
By choosing to repair your iPhone 6s instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 52 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new iPhone 6s generates 55 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 3 kg of CO₂. That's a 95% reduction in carbon emissions!
Get a Personalized Repair Estimate
Upload a photo of your iPhone 6s and get an AI-powered cost estimate in seconds. See exactly what's damaged and how much it'll cost to fix.