iPhone 15 Pro Speaker Repair

Let your phone's battery drain below 25% before starting this repair—a charged lithium‑ion battery may catch fire if damaged.

Unplug all cables from your phone.

Hold the power and either volume button and slide to power off your phone.

If your screen or back glass is cracked, lay overlapping strips of packing tape over the glass to protect yourself and make disassembly easier.

Make sure there's a smooth area near the bottom edge that's big enough for a suction cup to stick to.

If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.

Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.

You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.

Alternatively, [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/pQGATIGUbViSB4gB.full|tape a coin to a pick|new_window=true] 3 mm from the tip.

Use a P2 pentalobe screwdriver to remove the two 7 mm‑long screws on either side of the charging port.

Use a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true] or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true] to heat the bottom edge of the screen until it's hot to the touch.

Be careful not to heat the phone hotter than this—the battery is susceptible to heat damage.

Apply a suction handle to the bottom edge of the screen.

Pull up on the handle with a strong, steady force to create a gap between the screen and the frame.

Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.

As you slice the adhesive securing the screen in the next steps, be careful of the following areas:

There are two delicate cables connecting the screen to the phone: one just above the action button, and the other near the middle of the left edge.

There are multiple spring contacts around the perimeter of the phone. Be extra careful not to insert your pick deeper than suggested in these locations to avoid bending the contacts.

Don't insert your opening pick deeper than ***3 mm*** along the bottom edge.

Slide your pick back and forth along the bottom edge to separate the adhesive.

Leave your pick inserted in the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Heat the right edge of the screen until it's hot to the touch.

Don't insert your pick deeper than ***5 mm*** along the right edge.

Slide your pick around the bottom right corner of the screen and toward the power button until you feel a hard stop at a clip securing the screen.

Rotate your pick so the flat edge is under the screen.

Twist the pick to increase the gap between the screen and the frame until the right clip releases.

Insert a second opening pick to the right of the first pick.

Slide the first pick back to the bottom right corner of the screen.

Slide the second pick to the top right corner of the screen to separate the adhesive.

Leave these picks inserted to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Heat the top edge of the screen until it's hot to the touch.

Don't insert your pick deeper than ***3 mm*** along the top edge.

Slide your pick around the top right corner and along the top edge to release the two clips and adhesive securing it.

Heat the left edge of the screen until it's hot to the touch.

Don't insert your pick deeper than ***2 mm*** along the left edge to avoid the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/QXhBuOBJJOa41ccu.huge|two cables connecting the screen to the phone|new_window=true].

Rotate your pick around the top left corner of the screen.

Slide your pick to the bottom left corner of the screen to separate the adhesive.

Place a small box or stack of books to the left of your phone so you can prop up the screen while disconnecting its cables.

Swing up the right edge of the screen like the front cover of a book.

If the screen feels stuck, go back around the perimeter with an opening pick to separate any remaining adhesive.

Prop up the screen so you can access its cables without straining them.

Use a Y000 screwdriver to remove the six screws securing the logic board cover:

Four 1.6 mm‑long screws

Two 1.3 mm‑long screws

Rotate the bottom of the logic board cover counterclockwise and slide the top left corner out from under the ambient light sensor cable to remove it.

During reassembly, make sure the top left corner of the cover goes [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/1NIOUKJhXcyYeLRr.full|under the ambient light sensor cable|new_window=true].

Use the tip of an opening pick to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector from the bottom right corner of the logic board.

To reconnect a [guide|25629|press connector|stepid=70308|new_window=true], align it over its socket and gently press down on one side until it clicks into place, then press down on the other side. Make sure it sits flat, as the insulating rubber around the sockets might prevent it from connecting fully.

Use the tip of an opening pick to pry up and disconnect the screen cable from the center of the logic board.

Gently slide the tip of an opening pick under the ambient light sensor cable near the top left corner of the logic board.

Lift the cable to disconnect it.

Remove the screen.

During reassembly, follow [guide|93983|this guide|new_window=true] to apply new adhesive and install your screen.

Be careful not to damage any of the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/DLQuEZf4tZ3uZOMD.full|spring contacts|new_window=true] as you clean the frame.

The ambient light sensor is glued down to your old screen and must be transferred to your new screen.

In the remaining steps, you'll remove this sensor so you can transfer it to your new screen.

Use a Phillips #000 driver to remove the two screws securing the ambient light sensor cover.

Remove the ambient light sensor cover.

Be careful not to overheat the screen—the plastic components can melt if they get too hot.

Use a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true] or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true] to heat the ambient light sensor until it's warm to the touch.

Be very gentle handing the ambient light sensor, as its cable is extremely fragile.

use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the ambient light sensor out of its enclosure.

By this point, the sensor has likely cooled down.

Apply more heat until the entire glued down part of the sensor is warm to the touch.

Insert the tip of an opening pick under the bottom right corner of the sensor.

Slide the pick under the sensor and lift until you can grip it with your fingers.

Use your fingers to slowly peel up and remove the sensor.

Use the tip of an opening pick to pry up and disconnect the three rear camera press connectors from the top right of the logic board.

The third connector is hidden beneath the top one—lift the top cable slightly to reveal the third connector.

Use a Phillips #000 screwdriver to remove the three screws securing the rear cameras:

One 3.8 mm‑long screw

One 3.2 mm‑long screw

One 2.8 mm‑long screw

Be careful not to touch or smudge the camera lenses during this step.

Insert the point of a spudger between the top right corner of the rear cameras and frame.

Pry up until you can grab the rear cameras with your fingers.

Remove the rear cameras.

Use a Phillips #000 screwdriver to remove the 2 mm‑long screw securing the top of the earpiece speaker.

Use a [product|IF145-388|standoff screwdriver|new_window=true] to remove the remaining screw securing the bottom left corner of the earpiece speaker.

If you don't have a standoff screwdriver, you can use a thin flathead one instead. Apply constant, downward pressure to avoid damaging the shallow notches in the screw head.

Remove the earpiece speaker.

During reassembly, make sure the gasket on the top right corner of the speaker lines up with its recess in the frame.