iPhone 15 Pro Battery Replacement

Allow your phone's battery to drain below 25%, as a charged lithium-ion battery is a potential safety hazard.

Unplug any cables from your phone.

Hold the power and either volume buttons and slide to power off your phone.

If your screen or back glass is badly cracked, lay overlapping strips of packing tape over the glass to protect yourself and make disassembly easier.

Make sure there's a smooth area near the bottom edge that's big enough for a suction cup to stick to.

If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.

Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.

You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.

Alternatively, [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/pQGATIGUbViSB4gB.full|tape a coin to a pick|new_window=true] 3 mm from the tip.

Use a P2 pentalobe driver to remove the two 7.2 mm-long screws on either side of the charging port.

Use a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true] or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true] to heat the bottom edge of the screen until it's hot to the touch.

Be careful not to heat the phone hotter than this—the battery is susceptible to heat damage.

Apply a suction handle to the bottom edge of the screen.

Pull up on the handle with a strong, steady force to create a gap between the screen and the frame.

Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.

As you slice the adhesive securing the screen in the next steps, be careful of the following areas:

There are two delicate cables connecting the screen to the phone: one just above the action button, and the other near the middle of the left edge.

There are multiple spring contacts around the perimeter of the phone. Be extra careful not to insert your pick deeper than suggested in these locations to avoid bending the contacts.

Don't insert your opening pick deeper than ***3 mm*** along the bottom edge.

Slide your pick back and forth along the bottom edge to separate the adhesive.

Leave your pick inserted in the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Heat the right edge of the screen until it's hot to the touch.

Don't insert your pick deeper than ***5 mm*** along the right edge.

Slide your pick around the bottom right corner of the screen and toward the power button until you feel a hard stop at a clip securing the screen.

Rotate your pick so the flat edge is under the screen.

Twist the pick to increase the gap between the screen and the frame until the right clip releases.

Insert a second opening pick to the right of the first pick.

Slide the first pick back to the bottom right corner of the screen.

Slide the second pick to the top right corner of the screen to separate the adhesive.

Leave these picks inserted to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Heat the top edge of the screen until it's hot to the touch.

Don't insert your pick deeper than ***3 mm*** along the top edge.

Slide your pick around the top right corner and along the top edge to release the two clips and adhesive securing it.

Heat the left edge of the screen until it's hot to the touch.

Don't insert your pick deeper than ***2 mm*** along the left edge to avoid the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/QXhBuOBJJOa41ccu.huge|two cables connecting the screen to the phone|new_window=true].

Rotate your pick around the top left corner of the screen.

Slide your pick to the bottom left corner of the screen to separate the adhesive.

Gently swing open the screen to the left of the phone.

If the screen feels stuck, go back around the perimeter to check for missed sections of adhesive or stuck clips.

Rest the screen against a box or similar object so it doesn't strain the cables.

Throughout this repair, [product|IF145-491|keep track of each screw|new_window=true] and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

Use a tri-point Y000 driver to remove the six screws securing the logic board cover:

One 2.1 mm‑long screw

Five 1.5 mm‑long screws

Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers] or your fingers to grab and slide the logic board cover toward the bottom of the phone to clear the sensor cable.

Remove the cover.

Use the tip of an opening pick to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector.

To reconnect a [guide|25629|press connector|stepid=70308|new_window=true], align it over its socket and gently press down on one side until it clicks into place, then press down on the other side. Make sure it sits flat, as the insulating rubber around the sockets might prevent it from connecting fully.

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the ambient light sensor press connector from the top left of the logic board.

Disconnect the screen press connector.

Remove the screen.

During reassembly, stop here and [guide|93983|use this guide|new_window=true] to install new screen adhesive.

Be careful not to damage any of the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/RHTxaTCxnIhVamNb.huge|spring contacts|new_window=true] as you clean the frame.

The ambient light sensor is glued down to your old screen and must be transferred to your new screen.

In the remaining steps, you'll remove this sensor so you can transfer it to your new screen.

Use a Phillips #000 driver to remove the 1.4 mm screw securing the ambient light sensor cover.

Use tweezers or your fingers to unlatch the ambient light sensor cover and remove it.

During reassembly, make sure to hook the latch into the small groove on the left side of the black plastic enclosure.

Be careful not to overheat the screen—the plastic components can melt if they get too hot.

Use a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true] or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true] to heat the ambient light sensor until it's warm to the touch.

Be very gentle handing the ambient light sensor, as its cable is extremely fragile and thin. Avoid using your tool in the direction of the cable.

Use the tip of an opening pick to pry up the edge of the ambient light sensor out of its black plastic enclosure.

This may be tricky. The enclosure prevents you from inserting a tool underneath the sensor. Try from a couple angles, if your tool tends to slip.

By this point, your sensor likely cooled down. Apply more heat until the entire glued down component is warm to the touch.

Insert the tip of your opening pick underneath the press connector cable.

Slide your pick back and forth underneath both cables to separate the lower section of adhesive.

Be careful not to sharply crease or tear the ambient light sensor.

Reheat the glued down section of the component at any point if the adhesive cools and becomes stubborn to cut.

Use the flat end of your pick to slide back and forth underneath the sensor until you've separated roughly half of it from the screen.

Use your fingers to grab the raised half of the sensor and peel it from the screen.

Use your Phillips #000 driver to remove the four screws securing the loudspeaker:

Three 2.1 mm screws

One 2.9 mm screw

Insert an opening pick under the tape in the small gap between the Taptic Engine and the loudspeaker.

Slide the pick toward the left edge of the phone to separate the tape from the Taptic Engine.

Insert the flat end of a spudger between the right edge of the loudspeaker and the frame.

Pry up until you can grab the loudspeaker with your fingers.

Remove the loudspeaker.

Use the tip of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the Taptic Engine press connector.

Remove the two screws securing the grounding clip:

One 1.2 mm Phillips #000 screw

One 1.9 mm tri-point Y000 screw

Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to remove the grounding clip.

Remove the two screws securing the Taptic Engine:

One 2.9 mm Phillips #000 screw

One 3.8 mm standoff screw

If you don't have a [product|IF145-388|standoff driver|new_window=true], you may use a thin flathead driver—but be careful not to strip the shallow notches in the screw heads.

Insert the flat end of a spudger between the left edge of the Taptic Engine and the frame.

Pry up until you can grab the Taptic Engine with your fingers.

Remove the Taptic Engine.

Three sections of [link|https://www.ifixit.com/News/45779/ask-ifixit-what-is-stretch-release-adhesive-and-why-do-we-love-it|stretch release adhesive|new_window=true] secure the battery to the frame—two along the bottom and one on top.

Each strip has a black pull tab at its end, which is lightly adhered to the edge of the battery.

In the following steps, you'll pull each tab out from underneath the battery.

The strips loosen when stretched, but might break off before you can fully remove them, especially the top edge strip. If any break, don't worry! Keep reading for an alternate way to remove the battery.

Don't puncture or dent the battery with your tool, as it can leak dangerous chemicals or catch fire if damaged.

Use the tip of an opening pick to gently unstick an edge of an adhesive pull tab from the edge of the battery.

Use blunt nose [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to grip the edge of the pull tab and pull it completely off the edge of the battery.

Repeat for the other two pull tabs.

Pull one of the pull tabs out from under the battery until you can grip it with your fingers or [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/gstgPwAPTUNJJtPU.huge|wrap it around your tool|new_window=true].

Hold the phone steady using the edges of the frame—don't press down on the battery.

Pull the strip slowly, evenly, and at a low angle without dragging on other components.

Continue pulling, re-gripping or wrapping it around your tool as you go, until the strip fully releases from under the battery.

If the strip breaks off, try to retrieve it. If you can't grip it from under the battery, move on to the next step.

Repeat this step for the other two strips.

If you removed all three stretch release adhesive strips, congratulations—you can now [guide|166239|remove the battery|stepid=350190]! If not, ***follow the next two steps*** to separate the adhesive with isopropyl alcohol and a plastic card.

If the top strip remains, prop up the top edge of the phone.

If either of the bottom strips remain, prop up the left edge of the phone (the side with the volume buttons).

Use a pipette or syringe to apply a few drops of highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) to the elevated edge of the battery.

Wait one minute for the isopropyl alcohol to flow under the battery and soften the adhesive.

Don't bend or crease your battery. If the adhesive feels stubborn, apply a few more drops of isopropyl alcohol and try again.

Insert the short edge of a [product|IF145-101|plastic card] between the bottom edge of the battery and the frame.

Be careful not to scrape the frame underneath the battery—the wireless charging coil is exposed near the center.

Gently pry up the battery until the adhesive fully separates.

Depending on how strong your adhesive is, this may take some time. Allow up to a minute of constant pressure for the adhesive to loosen.

Remove the battery.

To install a new battery:

Clean your frame with isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free or microfiber cloth.

***Before applying adhesive***, temporarily reconnect your new battery and place it in its recess to check if it fits and that the cable reaches the socket on the logic board. Disconnect the battery before continuing.

Check out [guide|137171|this guide|new_window=true] to apply new [product|IF145-458|stretch release adhesive strips|new_window=true] to your battery, if it doesn't already come with adhesive installed.

If you don't have stretch release adhesive, use [product|IF317-072-2|thin, double-sided tape|new_window=true] to secure it.