iPhone 15 Plus Dryer Door Switch Repair
Complete guide to iPhone 15 Plus dryer door switch repair. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.
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💰 Cost Breakdown
💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.
🔧 Repair Overview
Dryer Door Switch Repair is one of the most common repairs for iPhone 15 Plus. This repair involves replacing the damaged safety component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 30 min - 1 hour and requires easy skill level.
What You'll Need
- Replacement safety part (OEM or aftermarket)
- Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
- Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
- Adhesive strips or glue
- Clean workspace with good lighting
Step-by-Step Process
Step 1: Prepare your phone for disassembly
Allow your phone's battery to drain below 25%, as a charged lithium-ion battery is a potential safety hazard.
Unplug any cables from your phone.
Hold the power and either volume buttons and slide to power off your phone.
Step 2: Tape over any cracks
If your screen or back glass is badly cracked, lay overlapping strips of packing tape over the glass to protect yourself and make disassembly easier.
Make sure there's a smooth area near the bottom edge that's big enough for a suction cup to stick to.
Step 3: Mark your opening picks
If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.
Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.
Alternatively, [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/pQGATIGUbViSB4gB.full|tape a coin to a pick|new_window=true] 3 mm from the tip.
Apple sells an ***Adhesive Cutter*** tool for cutting the display adhesive safely in their [link|https://selfservicerepair.com|Self Repair Store|new_window=true].
Step 4: Remove the pentalobe screws
Use a P2 pentalobe driver to remove the two 7.7 mm-long screws on either side of the charging port.
Step 5: Heat the bottom edge
Use a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true] or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true] to heat the bottom edge of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.
Be careful not to heat the phone hotter than this—the battery is susceptible to heat damage.
Step 6: Insert an opening pick
Apply a suction handle to the bottom edge of the back glass.
Pull up on the handle with a strong, steady force to create a gap between the back glass and the frame.
Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.
Step 7: Back glass information
As you slice the adhesive securing the back glass in the next steps, be careful of the following areas:
There's a delicate cable connecting the back glass to the phone, right next to the volume up button. Don't insert your pick here to avoid slicing the cable.
There are multiple spring contacts around the perimeter of the phone. Be extra careful not to insert your pick deeper than suggested in each step to avoid bending these contacts.
Step 8: Separate the bottom edge adhesive
Don't insert your opening pick deeper than ***5 mm*** along the bottom edge.
Slide your pick back and forth along the bottom edge to separate the adhesive.
Leave your pick inserted in the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
Step 9: Heat the right edge
Heat the right edge of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.
Step 10: Separate the bottom right corner adhesive
Don't insert your pick deeper than ***7 mm*** along the right edge.
Rotate your pick around the bottom right corner and slide it halfway up the right edge or until you feel a hard stop at a clip securing the back glass.
Don't slice near the volume buttons to avoid damaging the wireless charging cable.
Leave this pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 11: Heat the left edge
Heat the left edge of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.
Step 12: Separate the left edge adhesive
Don't insert your pick deeper than ***5 mm*** along the left edge.
Insert a second opening pick at the bottom edge.
Rotate the second pick around the bottom left corner.
Slide this pick up to the top left corner to separate the adhesive.
Leave this pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 13: Heat the top edge
Heat the top edge of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.
Step 14: Separate the top edge adhesive
Don't insert your pick deeper than ***3 mm*** along the top edge.
Rotate your second opening pick around the top left corner and slide it to the top right corner to separate the adhesive.
You might hear and feel clicks as the top two clips release.
Leave this pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 15: Heat the top right corner
Heat the top right corner of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.
Step 16: Separate the top right corner adhesive
Don't insert your pick deeper than ***4 mm*** along the right edge.
Rotate the second opening pick around the top right corner and slide it to the volume up button to separate the adhesive.
Step 17: Swing open the back glass
Gently swing open the back glass to the right of the phone.
If the back glass feels stuck, go back around the perimeter to check for missed sections of adhesive or stuck clips.
Rest the back glass against a raised surface so it doesn't strain the cable.
Step 18: Unfasten the lower connector cover
Throughout this repair, [product|IF145-491|keep track of each screw|new_window=true] and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.
Use a tri-point Y000 driver to remove the two 1.3 mm-long screws securing the lower connector cover.
Step 19: Remove the lower connector cover
Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to slide the cover toward the top of the phone to unlatch it from the logic board.
Remove the cover.
Step 20:
Hold the back glass upright with one hand and rotate the bottom edge to the left to reveal the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/JTgBIs4pnklXuCQn.huge|battery press connector|new_window=true] just below the volume buttons.
Use the tip of an opening pick to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector from the logic board.
A plus and minus sign is printed on the head of this connector.
To reconnect a [guide|25629|press connector|stepid=70308|new_window=true], align it over its socket and gently press down on one side until it clicks into place, then press down on the other side. Make sure it sits flat, as the insulating rubber around the sockets might prevent it from connecting fully.
Step 21: Unfasten the middle connector cover
Use your tri-point Y000 driver to remove the 0.9 mm-long screw securing the middle connector cover.
Step 22: Remove the cover
Use the flat end of a spudger or your finger to push the cover toward the bottom of the phone and unclip [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/J1ZxsIErWymM2OwF.huge|its top edge|new_window=true].
Remove the cover.
Step 23: Disconnect the wireless charging coil
Use an opening pick to pry up and disconnect the wireless charging coil and NFC connector.
Step 24:
Remove the back glass.
Step 25: Separate the battery cable
Light adhesive secures the battery cable to the logic board.
Slide an opening pick under the battery cable to separate it from the logic board.
Be careful not to crease the cable or dent the battery with your tool.
Step 26: Peel up a corner of the pull tabs
Your iPhone's battery is secured with two [link|https://www.ifixit.com/News/45779/ask-ifixit-what-is-stretch-release-adhesive-and-why-do-we-love-it|stretch release adhesive strips|new_window=true]. The next four steps show how to remove them and free your battery.
Be careful not to dent or puncture the battery, and avoid using sharp tools near it.
Use the tip of an opening pick to scrape up an edge of each stretch release pull tab from the top of the battery until you can grip the tab with blunt nose [product|IF145-020|tweezers].
Step 27: Peel up the pull tabs
Use blunt nose tweezers to grip a pull tab and peel it from the battery.
Don't try to pull the tab out from under the battery just yet.
Repeat for the other pull tab.
Step 28: Free the top edge of the battery
The stretch release adhesive wraps around the top edge of the battery, and must be separated before you remove the strips.
Hold one of the pull tabs away from the battery with tweezers.
Use an opening pick to slice the adhesive securing the strip to the top edge of the battery.
Repeat for the other pull tab.
Step 29: Remove the stretch release adhesive
Use your blunt nose tweezers to grip the entire length of an adhesive strip's pull tab.
Twist your tweezers to roll the adhesive strip over itself and pull it slowly, evenly, and at a low angle out from under the battery.
Give the strip plenty of time to stretch. Avoid dragging it over cables or components as you pull.
If you're using your fingers, re-grip the strip often to avoid it stretching unevenly and tearing.
Repeat for the other strip.
If a strip breaks off, try to retrieve it from under the battery. If you can't retrieve it, don't worry! Move on to the next step for an alternate method.
Step 30: Alternate method to remove the battery
If you removed both stretch release adhesive strips, congratulations—you can now [guide|166864|remove the battery|stepid=351805]! If not, ***follow the next three steps*** to remove it with isopropyl alcohol and a plastic card.
Prop up the right edge of the phone (the side with the volume buttons).
Use a pipette or syringe to apply a few drops of highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) to the inside edge of the battery.
Prop up the top edge of the phone and repeat this for the upper edge of the battery.
Wait one minute for the isopropyl alcohol to flow under the battery and soften the adhesive.
Step 31: Insert a plastic card
Don't bend or crease your battery. If it feels stubborn, apply a few more drops of isopropyl alcohol and try again.
Insert the long edge of a [product|IF145-101|plastic card] between the left edge of the battery and the frame.
Hold the phone steady and pry the battery up.
Depending on how strong your adhesive is, this may take some time. Allow up to a minute of constant pressure for the adhesive to loosen.
Step 32: Pry up the battery
Slide the plastic card deeper under the battery until you can pry it up.
Lift the battery until you can grab it with your fingers.
Step 33: Remove the battery
Remove the battery.
Step 34: End of disassembly
Congratulations on completing disassembly! The remaining steps will show you how to reassemble your device.
When reconnecting press connectors, align the connector carefully over its socket and press down with your fingertip or spudger—first on one side, then the other—until it clicks into place. Don't try to force the connector into place. If you're having trouble, reposition it and try again.
Reassembly photos are of the iPhone 15 non‑Plus. It may look a little different, but the procedure is correct.
Step 35: Remove the residual battery adhesive
If there's any large pieces of residual battery adhesive remaining, use a pair of tweezers to peel them off the iPhone frame.
Use coffee filters or a lint‑free cloth and high‑concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol to wipe off any remaining battery adhesive residue from the iPhone frame.
Step 36: Remove the plastic sleeve
If your replacement battery comes with a plastic sleeve, peel it off and remove it.
Step 37: Remove adhesive liner
If your battery doesn't come with pre‑installed adhesive, follow [guide|137171|this guide|new_window=true] to install it, then come back to this guide to finish reassembly.
Peel the liner off the battery adhesive.
Step 38: Place the battery
Hold the battery over its place in the iPhone and connect [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/QJOPRvBZjTGUfar6.full|its press connector|new_window=true].
With the battery connected, lower it into place and use your fingers to press it into the frame.
After the battery is set, use the tip of a spudger to pry up and ***disconnect the battery cable*** press connector.
Step 39: Remove the back glass adhesive
Be careful not to damage any of the spring contacts as you clean the frame.
This is a good point to test your repair before sealing up your phone. Connect the battery and back glass, power on your phone, and make sure it works as expected. Power it back down, disconnect the battery and back glass, and continue reassembly.
The adhesive remaining on your phone is difficult to remove and leaves residue. If you have trouble removing the adhesive, apply some heat using a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true] or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true].
Use the pointed end of a spudger to press and roll the adhesive until you can grip it with a pair of tweezers.
Use the tweezers to pull the adhesive off of the phone.
Step 40:
Any leftover residue will compromise your iPhone's seal. Be sure to clean the frame thoroughly.
Wrap a microfiber or lint-free cloth around the pointed end of a spudger and apply a few drops of high-concentration (greater than 90%) isopropyl alcohol to the cloth.
Wipe in one direction along the perimeter of the frame to clean the adhesive residue.
Wait a few minutes before proceeding to make sure any excess alcohol has evaporated.
Step 41: Orient the adhesive
Lay the adhesive next to the phone and use features like cutouts for spring contacts and the rear camera to make sure the adhesive is oriented correctly.
Your adhesive may look slightly different.
Step 42: Apply the adhesive
Once the adhesive is pressed into place, you can't reposition it—you'll have to remove it and start over with new adhesive.
Use the pull tab to begin peeling the back liner off the adhesive starting from the bottom, but don't remove the liner all the way.
Hold the liner out of the way and align the adhesive with the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Lay the bottom edge of the adhesive into its recess in the frame, making sure the iPhone's spring contacts are aligned with their cutouts in the liner.
Step 43:
When the adhesive is aligned, use the flat end of a spudger or your finger to press it down firmly along the bottom edge.
Step 44:
Continue peeling the back liner off of the adhesive while pressing the adhesive into place along the edges of the iPhone's frame.
If you correctly aligned the lower edge of the adhesive, the side and top edges will fall perfectly into place. If the adhesive is misaligned, remove it and start over with new adhesive.
If your adhesive is misaligned and you don't have another set handy, it's okay to temporarily put your iPhone back together and use it normally without any adhesive, but keep in mind that ***your iPhone's water resistance will be compromised until you install new adhesive***.
Step 45: Press the adhesive into place
Make sure the liner is aligned properly by checking that all spring contacts and the rear camera are in their cutouts. If they aren't, remove the adhesive and start over with a new sheet.
Use the flat end of a spudger to press the adhesive into place around the perimeter of the frame.
Be careful not to touch the spring contacts sticking through the pink liner.
Step 46: Remove the top liner
Remove the top adhesive liner.
Depending on your adhesive, your liner might be split into multiple parts or be a single piece.
Step 47: Prop up the back glass
Prop up the back glass along the right edge of the iPhone, using a box or similar sturdy object to support the screen.
Use the flat end of a spudger or your finger to connect the wireless charging coil press connector, then the battery press connector.
Step 48: Place the middle connector cover
Place the middle connector cover over the wireless charging coil press connector so it slightly overhangs the slot on the logic board for the bottom clip.
Step 49:
Use your finger to press the cover down on the logic board.
While pressing it down, slide the cover upward so [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/5gbMytFVlxhJNMEA.full|both metal clips|new_window=true] slot into their spots in the logic board.
Step 50: Place the lower connector cover
Use tweezers to hook the top of the lower connector cover into its slot on the logic board.
Lay the lower connector cover over the press connectors.
Step 51: Install the cover screws
Use a tri-point Y000 screwdriver to install the 0.9 mm‑long screw securing the middle connector cover.
Use a tri-point Y000 screwdriver to install the two 1.3 mm‑long screws securing the lower connector cover.
Step 52: Remove the final adhesive liners
Use tweezers or your fingers to separate the pull tabs at the bottom of the frame, near the charging port.
Step 53:
Remove the narrow liner covering the adhesive along the left and top edges of the frame.
Step 54:
Hold the back glass over the phone without letting it touch the adhesive, so you can access the remaining liners along the right edge of the phone.
Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the remaing liners along the right edge of the phone.
Step 55: Install the back glass
Lay the back glass straight down onto the frame and press until the clips engage.
Press around the perimeter of the back glass to engage all the clips.
Step 56: Heat the back glass
To help the adhesive bond, apply heat to the edges of the back glass using an [guide|11677|iOpener|new_window=true], [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true], or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true] until it's hot to the touch.
Firmly press around the perimeter of the back glass. If you have [guide|142291|screen vise clamps|new_window=true], use them to strengthen the bond of your new adhesive. If not, keep reading for more ways to secure the back glass.
Step 57: Press the back glass
To evenly compress your iPhone and strengthen the bond of the back glass to the frame, you need to account for the camera bump.
If you have the box your iPhone came in, take the lid and place it on a flat surface.
If you don't have your original box, ***skip this step for an alternate method***.
Place your iPhone screen-side-up in the lid of your box with the camera bump in its recess.
Find something close to the size of your iPhone, but taller than the sides of the box. Stack it on top of the iPhone, followed by a few heavy objects.
Leave the objects in place for at least thirty minutes. The lighter the objects, the longer they should be left. Ideally, leave them stacked overnight.
Step 58:
If you don't have the original box for your iPhone, follow the next three steps for another method to evenly compress the back glass.
Place the iPhone screen-side-down on a soft, flat surface.
Apply tape to the back glass to protect its finish.
Step 59:
Place evenly spaced layers of coins or similarly thick objects on the tape along the edges of the back glass.
Stack them to a consistent height taller than the camera bump.
Step 60:
Stack multiple books or other heavy objects on your iPhone.
The coins may leave an impression on the bottom object, so don't use anything valuable.
Leave the objects in place for at least thirty minutes. The lighter the objects, the longer they should be left. Ideally, leave them stacked overnight.
Step 61: Install the pentalobe screws
Use a P2 pentalobe driver to install the two 7.7 mm‑long screws on either side of the charging port.
📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.
iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm
DIY vs Professional Repair
✋ DIY Repair
- ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $30-$90)
- ✅ Learn new skills
- ❌ Risk of further damage
- ❌ No warranty
- ❌ Requires tools and time
🔧 Professional Repair
- ✅ Expert installation
- ✅ Warranty included
- ✅ Faster turnaround
- ❌ Higher cost ($50-$150)
- ❌ Need to find reputable shop
Environmental Impact
By choosing to repair your iPhone 15 Plus instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 68 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new iPhone 15 Plus generates 70 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 2 kg of CO₂. That's a 97% reduction in carbon emissions!
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