iPhone 15 Dryer Control Board Repair

Allow your phone's battery to drain below 25%, as a charged lithium-ion battery is a potential safety hazard.

Unplug any cables from your phone.

Hold the power and either volume buttons and slide to power off your phone.

If your screen or back glass is badly cracked, lay overlapping strips of packing tape over the glass to protect yourself and make disassembly easier.

Make sure there's a smooth area near the bottom edge that's big enough for a suction cup to stick to.

If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.

Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.

You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.

Alternatively, [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/pQGATIGUbViSB4gB.full|tape a coin to a pick|new_window=true] 3 mm from the tip.

Apple sells an ***Adhesive Cutter*** tool for cutting the display adhesive safely in their [link|https://selfservicerepair.com|Self Repair Store|new_window=true].

Use a P2 pentalobe driver to remove the two 7.7 mm-long screws on either side of the charging port.

Use a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true] or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true] to heat the bottom edge of the screen until it's hot to the touch.

Be careful not to heat the phone hotter than this—the battery is susceptible to heat damage.

Apply a suction handle to the bottom edge of the screen.

Pull up on the handle with a strong, steady force to create a gap between the screen and the frame.

Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.

As you slice the adhesive securing the screen in the next steps, be careful of the following areas:

There are two delicate cables connecting the screen to the phone, one just above the mute switch, and the other about halfway between the volume down button and the bottom of the phone.

There are multiple spring contacts around the perimeter of the phone. Be extra careful not to insert your pick deeper than suggested in these locations to avoid bending the contacts.

Don't insert your opening pick deeper than ***3 mm*** along the bottom edge.

Slide your pick back and forth along the bottom edge to separate the adhesive.

Leave your pick inserted in the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Heat the right edge of the screen until it's hot to the touch.

Don't insert your pick deeper than ***5 mm*** along the right edge.

Slide your pick around the bottom right corner of the screen and toward the power button until you feel a hard stop at a clip securing the screen.

Rotate your pick so the flat edge is under the screen.

Hold the pick with one hand and twist it to increase the gap between the screen and the frame and release the right clip.

Insert a second opening pick to the right of the first one.

Slide the first pick back to the bottom right corner of the screen.

Slide the second pick to the top right corner of the screen to separate the adhesive.

Leave these picks inserted to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Heat the top edge of the screen until it's hot to the touch.

Don't insert your pick deeper than ***3 mm*** along the top edge.

Insert a third opening pick in the top right corner, just above the previous pick.

Slide your pick around the top right corner and along the top edge until you feel it stop against the top left screen clip.

Rotate your pick so its flat edge is under the screen.

Twist your pick to release the top left screen clip.

Slide your pick to the top left corner.

Heat the left edge of the screen until it's hot to the touch.

Don't insert your pick deeper than ***3 mm*** along the left edge to avoid the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/GtoejZGWPCCYjC2L.huge|two cables connecting the screen to the phone|new_window=true].

Slide your pick around the top left corner of the screen and along the left edge to release the clips and separate the adhesive securing it.

Gently swing open the screen over the left edge of the phone.

If the screen feels stuck, go back around the perimeter to check for missed sections of adhesive or stuck clips.

Use a tri-point Y000 driver to remove the 0.9 mm-long screw securing the front sensor connector cover.

Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to lift the cover to a 90-degree angle.

Unhook the cover from its slot in the logic board.

Remove the cover.

Use the tip of an opening pick to pry up and disconnect the front sensor press connector.

Use your tri-point Y000 driver to remove the 0.9 mm‑long screw securing the screen connector cover.

Use tweezers to lift the cover and unlatch it from its hook on the logic board.

Remove the cover.

Use the tip of an opening pick to pry up and disconnect the screen press connector.

Remove the screen.

Flip your phone over and lay it on a soft surface, such as a [product|IF145-284|microfiber cloth], to protect its internals as you work.

Use a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true] or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true] to heat the bottom edge of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.

Be careful not to heat the phone hotter than this—the battery is susceptible to heat damage.

Apply a suction handle to the bottom edge of the back glass.

Pull up on the handle with a strong, steady force to create a gap between the back glass and the frame.

Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.

As you slice the adhesive securing the back glass in the next steps, be careful of the following areas:

There's a delicate cable connecting the back glass to the phone, right next to the volume down button. Don't insert your pick here to avoid slicing the cable.

There are multiple spring contacts around the perimeter of the phone. Be extra careful not to insert your pick deeper than suggested in each step to avoid bending these contacts.

Don't insert your opening pick deeper than ***5 mm*** along the bottom edge.

Slide your pick back and forth along the bottom edge to separate the adhesive.

Leave your pick inserted in the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Heat the right edge of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.

Don't insert your pick deeper than ***7 mm*** along the right edge.

Rotate your pick around the bottom right corner and slide it to the volume down button or until you feel a hard stop at a large clip securing the back glass.

Don't slice past the volume buttons to avoid damaging the wireless charging cable.

Leave this pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Heat the left edge of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.

Along the left edge, don't insert your pick deeper than ***5 mm***.

Insert a second opening pick at the bottom edge.

Rotate the second pick around the bottom left corner.

Slide this pick up to the top left corner to separate the adhesive.

Leave this pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Heat the top edge of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.

Don't insert your pick deeper than ***3 mm*** along the top edge.

Rotate your second opening pick around the top left corner and slide it to the top right corner to separate the adhesive.

You might hear and feel clicks as the top two clips release.

Leave this pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Heat the top right corner of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.

Don't insert your pick deeper than ***4 mm*** along the right edge.

Rotate the second opening pick around the top right corner and slide it to the volume up button to separate the adhesive.

Gently lift and swing open the back glass to the right of the phone.

If the back glass feels stuck, go back around the perimeter to check for missed sections of adhesive or stuck clips.

Rest the back glass against a raised surface so it doesn't strain the cable.

Throughout this repair, [product|IF145-491|keep track of each screw|new_window=true] and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

Use a tri-point Y000 driver to remove the two 1.3 mm-long screws securing the lower connector cover.

Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to slide the cover toward the top of the phone to unlatch it from the logic board.

Remove the cover.

Hold the back glass upright with one hand and rotate it just enough to reveal the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/QJOPRvBZjTGUfar6.full|battery press connector|new_window=true] just below the volume buttons.

A plus and minus sign is printed on the head of this connector.

Use the tip of an opening pick to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector from the logic board.

Use your tri-point Y000 driver to remove the 0.9 mm-long screw securing the middle connector cover.

Use the flat end of a spudger or your finger to push the cover toward the bottom of the phone and unclip its top edge.

Remove the cover.

Use an opening pick to pry up and disconnect the wireless charging coil and NFC connector.

Remove the back glass.

Use your tri-point Y000 driver to remove the two 1.3 mm‑long screws securing the upper connector cover.

Remove the cover.

Use the tip of an opening pick to pry up and disconnect the antenna, front sensors, and front camera press connectors (three connectors in total).

Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers] or your fingers to pull the front camera and sensors out of their recess in the frame and remove them.

Use the tip of an opening pick to pry up and disconnect the earpiece speaker press connector.

Use a Phillips #000 driver to remove the five screws securing the earpiece speaker:

Two 1.1 mm‑long screws

Three 1.6 mm‑long screws

Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers] or your fingers to lift and pull the earpiece speaker away from the top of the phone to free the gasket from the frame.

Remove the earpiece speaker.

Light adhesive secures the battery cable to the logic board.

Slide an opening pick under the battery cable to separate it from the logic board.

Be careful not to crease the cable or dent the battery with your tool.

Use the tip of an opening pick to pry up and disconnect the volume buttons press connector.

Disconnect the power button press connector.

Disconnect the rear cameras and antenna press connectors (three connectors in total).

Disconnect the eSIM, Taptic Engine, and charging port press connectors (three connectors in total).

Use your [product|IF145-388|standoff driver|new_window=true] to remove the five standoff screws securing the logic board:

One 2.9 mm‑long screw

One 3.9 mm‑long screw

Three 3.5 mm‑long screws

If you don't have a standoff driver, you may use a thin flathead driver—but be careful not to strip the shallow notches in the screw heads.

Grip the top edge of the logic board and gently pull it out from under the cables.

Remove the logic board.

During reassembly, make sure [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/wSZhjIahlC2Hn3Py.huge|all nine press connectors|new_window=true] (including the small volume buttons cable) are above the logic board.

Congratulations on completing disassembly! The remaining steps will show you how to reassemble your device.

When reconnecting press connectors, align the connector carefully over its socket and press down with your fingertip or spudger—first on one side, then the other—until it clicks into place. Don't try to force the connector into place. If you're having trouble, reposition it and try again.

Slide the logic board into its slot in the frame, making sure the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/bxrwUBRM3R5tSJhc.full|nine press connectors|new_window=true] are above the logic board.

Use your [product|IF145-388|standoff driver|new_window=true] to install the five standoff screws securing the logic board:

One 2.9 mm‑long screw

One 3.9 mm‑long screw

Three 3.5 mm‑long screws

If you don't have a standoff driver, you may use a thin flathead driver—but be careful not to strip the shallow notches in the screw heads.

Use your spudger or your fingers to connect the eight press connectors:

The power button

The volume button

The rear cameras and antenna (three connectors in total)

The Taptic Engine

The charging port

Don't connect the battery press connector yet.

Align the gasket on the earpiece speaker with its [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/DkLP6Sbu3PGhXeFC.full|sound channel|new_window=true].

Press the earpiece speaker onto the frame so it lies flat.

Use a Phillips #000 driver to install the five screws securing the earpiece speaker:

Two 1.1 mm‑long screws

Three 1.6 mm‑long screws

Slide the front camera assembly into its recess in the frame.

Set the assembly down so it lies flat.

Use the flat end of a spudger or your finger to connect the front camera and earpiece speaker press connectors.

If the iPhone has a [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/iTAh43ZQe1u2jI2O.full|mmWave antenna|new_window=true], connect it as well.

Place the cover over the logic board and align its screw holes.

Use your tri-point Y000 driver to install the two 1.3 mm‑long screws securing the upper connector cover.

Be careful not to damage any of the spring contacts as you clean the frame.

This is a good point to test your repair before sealing up your phone. Connect the battery and back glass, power on your phone, and make sure it works as expected. Power it back down, disconnect the battery and back glass, and continue reassembly.

The adhesive remaining on your phone is difficult to remove and leaves residue. If you have trouble removing the adhesive, apply some heat using a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true] or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true].

Use the pointed end of a spudger to press and roll the adhesive until you can grip it with a pair of tweezers.

Use the tweezers to pull the adhesive off of the phone.

Any leftover residue will compromise your iPhone's seal. Be sure to clean the frame thoroughly.

Wrap a microfiber or lint-free cloth around the pointed end of a spudger and apply a few drops of high-concentration (greater than 90%) isopropyl alcohol to the cloth.

Wipe in one direction along the perimeter of the frame to clean the adhesive residue.

Wait a few minutes before proceeding to make sure any excess alcohol has evaporated.

Lay the adhesive next to the phone and use features like cutouts for spring contacts and the rear camera to make sure the adhesive is oriented correctly.

Your adhesive may look slightly different.

Once the adhesive is pressed into place, you can't reposition it—you'll have to remove it and start over with new adhesive.

Use the pull tab to begin peeling the back liner off the adhesive starting from the bottom, but don't remove the liner all the way.

Hold the liner out of the way and align the adhesive with the bottom edge of the iPhone.

Lay the bottom edge of the adhesive into its recess in the frame, making sure the iPhone's spring contacts are aligned with their cutouts in the liner.

When the adhesive is aligned, use the flat end of a spudger or your finger to press it down firmly along the bottom edge.

Continue peeling the back liner off of the adhesive while pressing the adhesive into place along the edges of the iPhone's frame.

If you correctly aligned the lower edge of the adhesive, the side and top edges will fall perfectly into place. If the adhesive is misaligned, remove it and start over with new adhesive.

If your adhesive is misaligned and you don't have another set handy, it's okay to temporarily put your iPhone back together and use it normally without any adhesive, but keep in mind that ***your iPhone's water resistance will be compromised until you install new adhesive***.

Make sure the liner is aligned properly by checking that all spring contacts and the rear camera are in their cutouts. If they aren't, remove the adhesive and start over with a new sheet.

Use the flat end of a spudger to press the adhesive into place around the perimeter of the frame.

Be careful not to touch the spring contacts sticking through the pink liner.

Remove the top adhesive liner.

Depending on your adhesive, your liner might be split into multiple parts or be a single piece.

Prop up the back glass along the right edge of the iPhone, using a box or similar sturdy object to support the screen.

Use the flat end of a spudger or your finger to connect the wireless charging coil press connector, then the battery press connector.

Place the middle connector cover over the wireless charging coil press connector so it slightly overhangs the slot on the logic board for the bottom clip.

Use your finger to press the cover down on the logic board.

While pressing it down, slide the cover upward so [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/5gbMytFVlxhJNMEA.full|both metal clips|new_window=true] slot into their spots in the logic board.

Use tweezers to hook the top of the lower connector cover into its slot on the logic board.

Lay the lower connector cover over the press connectors.

Use a tri-point Y000 screwdriver to install the 0.9 mm‑long screw securing the middle connector cover.

Use a tri-point Y000 screwdriver to install the two 1.3 mm‑long screws securing the lower connector cover.

Use tweezers or your fingers to separate the pull tabs at the bottom of the frame, near the charging port.

Remove the narrow liner covering the adhesive along the left and top edges of the frame.

Hold the back glass over the phone without letting it touch the adhesive, so you can access the remaining liners along the right edge of the phone.

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the remaing liners along the right edge of the phone.

Lay the back glass straight down onto the frame and press until the clips engage.

Press around the perimeter of the back glass to engage all the clips.

To help the adhesive bond, apply heat to the edges of the back glass using an [guide|11677|iOpener|new_window=true], [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true], or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true] until it's hot to the touch.

Firmly press around the perimeter of the back glass.

Be careful not to damage any of the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/CaRm2SCSnETPoO2w.huge|spring contacts|new_window=true] as you clean the frame.

This is a good point to test your repair before sealing up your phone. Connect the screen, power on your phone, and make sure it works as expected. Power it back down and continue reassembly.

The adhesive remaining on your phone is difficult to remove and leaves residue. If you have trouble removing the adhesive, apply some heat using a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true] or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true].

Use a spudger to push the screen adhesive up until you can grab it with a pair of tweezers.

Use a pair of tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the adhesive around the entire perimeter of the iPhone.

Any leftover residue will compromise your iPhone's seal. Be sure to clean the frame thoroughly.

Wrap a microfiber or lint-free cloth around the pointed end of a spudger and apply a few drops of high-concentration (greater than 90%) isopropyl alcohol to the cloth.

Wipe in one direction along the perimeter of the frame to clean the adhesive residue.

Wait a few minutes before proceeding to make sure any excess alcohol has evaporated.

Lay the adhesive next to the phone and use features like cutouts for spring contacts and the front‑facing camera to make sure the adhesive is oriented correctly.

Your adhesive may look slightly different.

Once the adhesive is pressed into place, you can't reposition it—you'll have to remove it and start over with new adhesive.

Use the pull tab to begin peeling the back liner off of the adhesive starting from the bottom, but do not remove the liner all the way.

While holding the back liner out of the way, carefully align the exposed edge of the adhesive to the bottom edge of the iPhone's frame.

When the adhesive is aligned, use the flat end of a spudger, or your finger, to press it down firmly along the bottom edge.

Continue peeling the back liner off of the adhesive while pressing the adhesive into place along the edges of the iPhone's frame.

If you correctly aligned the lower edge of the adhesive, the side and top edges will fall perfectly into place. If the adhesive is misaligned, remove it and start over with new adhesive.

If your adhesive is misaligned and you don't have another set handy, it's okay to temporarily put your iPhone back together and use it normally without any adhesive, but keep in mind that ***your iPhone's water resistance will be compromised until you install new adhesive***.

Make sure the liner is aligned properly by checking that all spring contacts and the front-facing camera are in their cutouts. If they aren't, remove the adhesive and start over with a new sheet.

Use the flat end of a spudger to press the adhesive firmly into place all around the iPhone.

Be careful not to press on the camera, spring contacts, or other internal components.

Insert the point of a spudger under the top liner's hole at the bottom of the frame.

Pry up to separate the liner from the frame—enough to grip it with your fingers.

Your pull tab may be in a different location. Make sure you're pulling the full-size top liner, ***not*** the thin liners under it.

Peel back the top liner and remove it.

Prop the screen up along the left edge of the iPhone frame, using a box or similar sturdy object to support the screen.

Use the flat end of a spudger or your finger to connect the screen and front sensor press connectors.

Insert the top of the screen connector cover into its slot in the frame and lay it over the press connector.

Insert the front sensor connector cover into its slot in the frame at a 90‑degree angle vertically.

Lay the cover over the press connector.

Use a tri-point Y000 driver to install the two 0.9 mm‑long screws securing the front sensor connector and screen connector covers.

As you remove the liners in this step, the adhesive will be fully exposed. Make sure nothing touches the exposed adhesive.

Use a spudger, or your fingers, to separate the pull tabs at the bottom right corner of the frame.

Remove the narrow liner covering the adhesive along the right and top edges of the frame.

Remove the liner along the bottom edge of the frame.

Without letting the screen touch the adhesive, hold the screen over the phone so you can access the final liner along the left edge of the phone.

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the final liner along the left edge of the phone.

Lay the screen straight down onto the frame and press until the clips engage.

Press around the perimeter of the screen to engage all clips.

To help the adhesive bond, apply heat to the edges of the screen using an [guide|11677|iOpener|new_window=true], [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true], or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true] until it's hot to the touch.

If you have [guide|142291|screen vise clamps|new_window=true], use them to strengthen the bond of your new adhesive. If not, keep reading for more ways to secure the screen.

To evenly compress your iPhone and strengthen the bond of the screen to the frame, you need to account for the camera bump.

If you have the box your iPhone came in, take the lid and place it on a flat surface.

If you don't have your original box, ***skip this step for an alternate method***.

Place your iPhone screen-side-up in the lid of your box with the camera bump in its recess.

Find something close to the size of your iPhone, but taller than the sides of the box. Stack it on top of the iPhone, followed by a few heavy objects.

Leave the objects in place for at least thirty minutes. The lighter the objects, the longer they should be left. Ideally, leave them stacked overnight.

If you don't have the original box for your iPhone, follow the next three steps for another method to evenly compress the screen.

Place the iPhone screen-side-down on a soft, flat surface.

Apply tape to the back glass to protect its finish.

Place evenly spaced layers of coins or similarly thick objects on the tape along the edges of the back glass.

Stack them to a consistent height taller than the camera bump.

Stack multiple books or other heavy objects on your iPhone.

The coins may leave an impression on the bottom object, so don't use anything valuable.

Leave the objects in place for at least thirty minutes. The lighter the objects, the longer they should be left. Ideally, leave them stacked overnight.

Use a P2 pentalobe driver to install the two 7.7 mm‑long screws on either side of the charging port.