iPhone 14 Plus Speaker Repair

Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

Remove the two 6.8 mm-long pentalobe P2 screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.

If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.

Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.

You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.

Alternatively, [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/pQGATIGUbViSB4gB.full|tape a coin to a pick|new_window=true] 3 mm from the tip.

If your iPhone has a cracked rear glass, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.

Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's rear glass until the whole face is covered.

Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the rear glass with that instead.

If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the rear glass.

Use a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true] or a [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true] to heat the bottom edge of the iPhone for 90 seconds or until the rear glass is slightly too hot to touch.

Never leave your hair dryer in one spot for an extended period of time.

Apply a suction handle to the bottom edge of the rear glass, while avoiding the very edge of the glass.

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the rear glass and the frame.

Insert an opening pick into the gap.

The adhesive holding the rear glass in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the rear glass up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your opening pick.

Use a hair dryer to heat the left edge of the iPhone for 90 seconds or until the rear glass is slightly too hot to touch.

Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the rear glass in place.

Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage internal components.

Use a hair dryer to heat the right edge of the iPhone (the edge with the power button) for 90 seconds or until the rear glass is slightly too hot to touch.

There's a delicate cable along the right edge of your iPhone. ***Don't insert your pick here***, as you may damage the cable.

Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.

Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage the charging coil cable.

Use a hair dryer to heat the top edge of the iPhone for 90 seconds or until the rear glass is slightly too hot to touch.

Insert your pick underneath the top right edge of the phone. Slide it around the top-right corner and halfway across the top edge.

Insert your pick underneath the top-left edge of the phone. Slide it around the top-left corner and halfway across the top edge.

Don't insert the pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage or smear the camera array.

Don't try to fully separate the rear glass yet, as there's a fragile ribbon cable connecting it to the iPhone's logic board.

Remove your suction handle from the rear glass.

Slowly open your iPhone by swinging the rear glass up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

Be careful not to strain the short charging coil flex cable.

Lean the rear glass against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

If you don't have anything at hand to lean the rear glass against, your [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/a6BEQ2MatbrNBsfK.full|new_window=true|suction handle can do the trick].

During reassembly, lay the rear glass in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest down. If it doesn't click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the rear glass and make sure they aren't bent.

Use a Y000 screwdriver to remove the two 1.3 mm-long screws securing the battery connector cover.

Throughout this repair, [https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Magnetic-Project-Mat/IF145-167-4|keep track of each screw|new_window=true] and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

Grasp the battery connector cover with a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] and slide it upwards (towards the A15 print) to unlatch the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/HYxPRgY6avFPWsPs.full|top hook|new_window=true].

Remove the battery connector cover.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the battery cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.

Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

Use a Y000 screwdriver to remove the single 1.0 mm-long screw securing the charging coil connector cover.

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the charging coil connector cover.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the charging coil cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Remove the rear glass assembly.

Apply new adhesive where it's necessary after cleaning the relevant areas with isopropyl alcohol (>90%).

During reassembly, pause here if you wish to [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Replace+Your+iPhone+14+Rear+Glass+Adhesive/159598|replace the rear glass adhesives|new_window=true].

Use a Y000 screwdriver to remove the two 1.2 mm-long screws securing the front-facing camera assembly cable bracket.

Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] or your fingers to remove the front-facing camera assembly cable bracket.

Use a spudger to disconnect the camera and the sensor cables by prying the connectors straight up from their sockets.

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the front-facing camera assembly.

The next two steps show how to remove an antenna that's in some models. If you don't have this antenna, skip these steps.

Use a spudger to disconnect the antenna cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

The antenna is lightly adhered to the earpiece speaker.

Insert the tip of a spudger under the top left corner of the antenna.

Pry up to separate the adhesive under the antenna.

Remove the antenna

Use a spudger to disconnect the earpiece cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the eight screws securing the earpiece speaker.

Three 1.6 mm-long screws.

Two 1.7 mm-long screws.

One 1.1 mm-long screw.

One 2.1 mm-long screw.

One 1.5 mm-long screw.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 1.1 mm screw securing the earpiece speaker to the frame.

Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] or your fingers to remove the earpiece speaker.

The top left edge of the earpiece speaker is equipped with a rubber gasket. During reassembly, make sure the gasket lines up with its recess in the frame correctly.