iPhone 11 Speaker Repair

Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

Remove the two 6.7 mm-long pentalobe P2 screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.

Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.

Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.

You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.

Alternatively, [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/pQGATIGUbViSB4gB.full|tape a coin to a pick|new_window=true] 3 mm from the tip.

If your iPhone has a cracked screen, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.

Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the whole face is covered.

Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead.

If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the screen.

The next three steps demonstrate the [product|IF145-513|Anti-Clamp], a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. ***If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.***

For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, [guide|152309|check out this guide|new_window=true].

Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.

Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.

Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the top, and one on the bottom.

Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.

If you find that the surface of your iPhone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can [guide|159595|use tape|new_window=true] to create a grippier surface.

Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.

Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.

Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

You can also use a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true], [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true], or hot plate—but extreme heat can damage the display and/or internal battery, so proceed with care.

Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the iPhone.

Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.

Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen and the plastic bezel, ***not the screen itself.***

If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle a quarter turn.

Don't crank more than a quarter turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.

***Skip the next three steps.***

Heating the lower edge of the iPhone helps soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

Use a hairdryer or heat gun or [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|prepare an iOpener|new_window=true] and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute.

If you're using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

Insert an opening pick into the gap under the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/wIr4Mt4kTQPHBIOX.full|screen and the plastic bezel|new_window=true], ***not the screen itself.***

The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. ***If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive*** until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.

Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage internal components.

There are delicate cables along the right edge of your iPhone. ***Don't insert your pick here***, as you may damage the cables.

Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.

Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage the display cables.

The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips.

Gently pull the right edge of the display '''''down''''' slightly (in the direction of the Lightning port).

Insert your pick into the top-right corner of the phone.

Continue pulling the display down (toward the Lightning port) as needed in order to make a gap large enough for the pick.

Slide the pick to the top left corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.

Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage the Face ID sensor array.

Pull the small nub on the suction cup to detach it from the front panel.

Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

Prop the display up against something sturdy.

During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn't click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren't bent.

To access the screws in the following step, tilt the display by slightly lifting its lower edge.

Be careful not to strain or tear the display cables.

Use a Y000 driver to remove the three 1.1 mm-long screws securing the battery connector bracket.

Throughout this repair, [https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Magnetic-Project-Mat/IF145-167-4|keep track of each screw|new_window=true] and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

Remove the bracket.

Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.

Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally contacting the socket.

Use a Y000 driver to remove the five 1.1 mm screws securing the logic board cover bracket.

Remove the bracket.

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the LCD panel cable connector.

Disconnect the digitizer connector next to it.

Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.

Remove the display assembly.

During reassembly, pause here if you wish to [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iPhone+Display+Adhesive+Replacement/93983|replace the waterproof adhesive around the edges of the display|new_window=true].

Remove four screws securing the speaker/sensor assembly:

Three 1.6 mm Phillips screws

One 1.3 mm Y000 screw

Use the point of a spudger to gently pry up the top edge of the speaker.

Flip the speaker assembly over—down and away from the top edge of the display.

The speaker remains attached via very thin ribbon cables. Be careful not to strain or damage the cables.

Use a hairdryer or heat gun or [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|prepare an iOpener|new_window=true] and apply it to the top front of the display for 1-2 minutes, in order to soften the adhesive securing the sensors.

Carefully slide the edge of your opening pick underneath the flex cable below the microphone.

Twist gently to separate the microphone, while being careful not to strain or damage the flex cable.

If needed, use the point of the spudger to finish separating the microphone from its notch in the front panel.

Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to slide the small bracket straight up and off of the ambient light sensor.

Use tweezers to wiggle the ambient light sensor and lift it from its notch in the display.

If the sensor does not wiggle free after a few seconds, apply more heat and try again.

The sensor remains attached to the rest of the sensor assembly via a very thin flex cable. Be careful not to strain or damage the cable.

Working left to right, slide an opening pick beneath the flex cable and underneath the proximity sensor + flood illuminator module.

Gently wiggle and lift to separate the module from its notch in the front panel.

It's helpful to lift and hold the speaker out of the way for access. Just be careful not to pull on the thin flex cable while you work.

Remove the earpiece speaker and front sensor assembly.

During reassembly, check the position of the black plastic module containing these components:

Proximity sensor

Flood illuminator

The module must be positioned so that these components are not obstructed by any adhesive.