iPad Pro 12.9" Gen 4 Camera Repair

Allow your iPad's battery to fully drain before starting this repair. A charged battery may catch fire if damaged during the repair.

Unplug any cables and fully shut down your iPad.

Apply a [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the right edge of the screen for two minutes.

A hair dryer, [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Heat+Gun+to+Soften+Adhesive/151116|new_window=true|heat gun], or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the iPad—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

The next three steps demonstrate the [product|IF145-513|Anti-Clamp], a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. ***If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.***

For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, [guide|152309|check out this guide|new_window=true].

Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.

Place an object under your iPad so it rests level between the suction cups.

Position the suction cups near the middle of the right edge—one on the top, and one on the bottom.

Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and firmly press down on the top cup to apply suction.

If you find that the surface of your iPad is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, [guide|159595|use tape|new_window=true] to create a grippier surface.

Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.

Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.

Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.

If your screen isn't getting hot enough, you can use a hair dryer to heat along the right edge of the iPad.

For complete instructions on how to use a hair dryer, [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Hair+Dryer+to+Soften+Adhesive/157348|new_window=true|check out this guide].

Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.

If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.

Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.

***Skip the next step.***

If your screen is badly cracked, [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Tape+Over+a+Cracked+Phone+Screen/140533|covering it with a layer of clear packing tape|new_window=true] may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

Apply a suction handle to the screen as close to the center of the right edge as possible.

Pull up on the suction handle with a strong, steady force to create a small gap between the frame and screen.

The large screen is very fragile. Only create a gap big enough to insert an opening pick.

Insert an opening pick into the gap.

Don't insert the pick more than 5 mm to avoid damaging the screen.

Along the frame's right edge, there are two cutouts for the screen magnets where the adhesive is very thin. As you slice along this edge in the next step, don't insert your opening pick deeper than 2 mm in these locations:

One magnet begins 2 cm from the top edge and is 2.5 cm long.

The second magnet begins 3 cm from the bottom edge and is 2.5 cm long.

Slide your opening pick back and forth along the right edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.

Angle your pick downward and insert it no more than 2 mm near the magnet cutouts and 5 mm everywhere else.

Rotate your opening pick around the bottom right corner of the screen.

Leave your pick in the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Apply a [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the bottom edge of the screen for two minutes.

A hair dryer, [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Heat+Gun+to+Soften+Adhesive/151116|new_window=true|heat gun], or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the iPad—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

Insert a second opening pick in the bottom right corner of the screen.

Don't insert your opening pick more than 5 mm.

Slide your pick to the bottom left corner to slice the bottom edge adhesive.

Rotate your opening pick around the bottom left corner of the screen.

Leave your pick in the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Apply a [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the left edge of the screen for two minutes.

A hair dryer, [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Heat+Gun+to+Soften+Adhesive/151116|new_window=true|heat gun], or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the iPad—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

Along the left edge of the screen, there are three cutouts for cables where the adhesive is very thin. As you slice along this edge in the next step, don't insert your opening pick deeper than 2 mm in these locations:

The upper cutout begins 4 cm from the top edge and is 2.5 cm long.

The middle cutout is exactly in the middle of the frame and is 2.5 cm long.

The lower cutout begins 4 cm from the bottom edge and is 2.5 cm long.

Everywhere else, don't insert your opening pick more than 5 mm.

Insert a third opening pick in the bottom left corner of the screen.

Slide your pick to the top left corner to slice the left edge adhesive.

Rotate your opening pick around the top left corner of the screen.

Leave your pick in the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Apply a [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the top edge of the screen for two minutes.

A hair dryer, [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Heat+Gun+to+Soften+Adhesive/151116|new_window=true|heat gun], or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the iPad—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

While the top edge adhesive softens, note the following:

There are two ambient light sensors near the corners. Only insert the ***very tip*** of your pick here to avoid damaging them.

There are three strips of heat dispersion tape. ***Angle your pick upward*** as you slice here.

The front-facing camera assembly is in the center of the top edge. ***Don't insert your pick here*** to avoid damaging them.

Everywhere else, don't insert your pick deeper than 5 mm to avoid damaging the screen.

Slide your opening pick 9 cm toward the center of the top edge to slice the adhesive, paying attention to the spots mentioned in the previous step.

If you slice farther than 9 cm, you will reach the front camera assembly and risk damaging its components.

Leave your pick inserted. You will use another pick to slice the remaining adhesive.

Insert a fourth opening pick to the right of the front camera assembly, 4 cm from the previous opening pick and 9 cm from the right edge of the screen.

Slide your pick to the top right corner to slice the remaining adhesive.

Grab two opposing corners of the screen and gently shift it around to separate it from the frame.

Don't fully remove the screen yet, as it's still attached by several cables.

If the screen feels stuck, slide your opening picks around the perimeter to separate any remaining adhesive. Pay attention to sensitive components mentioned in the previous steps.

Shift the screen towards the ***bottom right corner of the frame*** until the ribbon cable near the top edge is uncovered.

Throughout this guide, [link|https://www.ifixit.com/products/fixmat|new_window=true|keep track of each screw] and reinstall it exactly where it came from.

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the upper cable shield:

One 1.8 mm-long screw

One 2.0 mm-long screw

During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPad and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your iPad back down before you continue working.

Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers] or your fingers to grab and remove the upper cable shield.

During reassembly, orient the shield so the notch faces up and to the right.

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the upper sensors press connector.

To re-attach [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s70308|press connectors|new_window=true], carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Don't press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend and cause permanent damage.

Grip the right edge of the screen and fold it open like a book.

Don't pull on the screen—the ribbon cables near the bottom are still attached.

Lay the screen down over the left edge of the iPad.

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the five screws securing the lower cable shield:

Four 1.1 mm screws

One 2.0 mm screw

Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers] or your fingers to grab and remove the lower cable shield.

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the four screws securing the upper cable shield:

Three 1.1 mm screws

One 2.0 mm screw

Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers] or your fingers to grab and remove the upper cable shield.

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the three press connectors for the IR dot-projector, front camera, and Face ID camera.

Use blunt nose tweezers to grab and peel the left and middle front camera assembly cables from the logic board.

Use your T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the two 2.2 mm screws securing the front camera assembly bracket.

Use the flat end of your spudger to pry the front camera assembly bracket from its recess.

The bracket is secured by heat-resistant epoxy which requires significant force to weaken. Work slowly and avoid prying against the surrounding components.

Use tweezers or your fingers to grab and remove the front camera assembly bracket from its recess.

Use a spudger to scrape and remove any residual epoxy before reinstalling the bracket.