iPad Pro 11" Gen 9 Charging Port Repair

Allow your iPad's battery to fully drain before starting this repair. A charged battery may catch fire if damaged during the repair.

Unplug any cables and fully shut down your iPad.

If your display is badly cracked, [guide|140533|covering it with a layer of clear packing tape|new_window=true] may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

***Wear [product|IF145-125-3|eye protection.|new_window=true]*** The glass may break, sending pieces flying.

Removing the screen involves using an opening pick and/or [product|IF145-374|halberd spudger] to separate the adhesive securing the screen to the frame.

As you slice through the adhesive, note the following:

The adhesive on the long edges of the iPad is about 4 mm wide. Avoid slicing deeper than that, or you risk damaging the display panel.

The adhesive on the short edges of the iPad is about 2 mm wide. Avoid slicing deeper than that.

Take especially care when slicing near the home button and charging port to avoid damaging the flex cables.

Take extra care when you slice near the front facing camera, to avoid damaging or smearing it.

Apply a [guide|25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the left edge of the screen to loosen the adhesive underneath. Apply the iOpener for at least 5 minutes.

A hair dryer, [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true], or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the device.

The display adhesive of the iPad is strong and the glass breaks easily. You need to reheat and reapply the iOpener in each section several times during the display removal.

The next three steps demonstrate the [product|IF145-513|Anti-Clamp], a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. ***If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.***

For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, [guide|152309|check out this guide|new_window=true].

Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.

Place an object under your iPad so it rests level between the suction cups.

Position the suction cups near the middle of the left edge—one on the top, and one on the bottom.

Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and firmly press down on the top cup to apply suction.

If you find that the surface of your iPad is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, [guide|159595|use tape|new_window=true] to create a grippier surface.

Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.

Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.

Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.

If your screen isn't getting hot enough, you can use a hair dryer to heat along the left edge of the iPad.

For complete instructions on how to use a hair dryer, [guide|157348|check out this guide|new_window=true].

Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.

If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.

Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.

***Skip the next two steps.***

Once the screen is warm to touch, apply a suction handle to the left edge of the iPad's screen, above the Smart Connector port and as close to the edge as possible.

While holding down the corners of the iPad, repeatedly pull up on the screen, then ease it back down to weaken the adhesive. This will eventually create a small gap in the seam.

If the edge cools down during the pulling process, [guide|25705|reheat the edge with an iOpener|new_window=true] before proceeding.

Once you've created a small gap, insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.

Don't insert your opening pick deeper than 3–4 mm, or you risk permanently damaging the display panel.

Reapply the iOpener to the bottom left corner of the iPad for at least 2 minutes, spanning from the opening pick to the home button.

After letting the adhesive soften, insert an opening pick or halberd spudger into the gap next to the opening pick.

Don't insert your slicing tool deeper than 3–4 mm, or you risk permanently damaging the display panel.

Use an opening pick or halberd spudger to slice the adhesive along the bottom left side of the iPad. If the slicing becomes difficult, reheat the edge and try again.

Insert an opening pick underneath the bottom left corner of the screen to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Reapply the iOpener to the upper left corner of the iPad for at least 2 minutes, spanning from the opening pick to the front facing camera.

Use an opening pick or halberd spudger and slide along the upper left edge of the iPad to slice the adhesive.

If the slicing becomes difficult, reheat the edge and try again.

Don't insert your slicing tool deeper than 3–4 mm, or you risk permanently damaging the display panel.

Insert an opening pick underneath the top left corner of the screen to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Reheat your iOpener and apply it the top edge of the device for at least 2 minutes.

Use an opening pick or halberd spudger and slide along the top edge of the iPad to slice the adhesive. Stop before you reach the front-facing camera.

Don't insert your slicing tool deeper than 2 mm, or you risk permanently damaging the display panel.

If the slicing becomes difficult, reheat the edge and try again.

Insert an opening pick underneath the screen just before the front-facing camera to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Reheat your iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the device for at least 2 minutes.

Insert an opening pick or a halberd spudger just past the front-facing camera.

Use your cutting tool to slice the remaining adhesive underneath the top edge of your device.

Don't insert your slicing tool deeper than 2 mm, or you risk permanently damaging the display panel.

If the slicing becomes hard, reheat the edge and try again.

Insert an opening pick underneath the upper right corner of the screen to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Apply a [guide|25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the right edge of the screen for 5 minutes to loosen the adhesive underneath.

Use an opening pick or halberd spudger and slide along the right edge of the iPad to slice the adhesive.

Don't insert your slicing tool deeper than 3–4 mm, or you risk permanently damaging the display panel.

Insert an opening pick underneath the center of the right edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Insert an opening pick underneath the bottom right corner of the iPad to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Reheat your iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the device for at least 2 minutes.

Insert an opening pick or a halberd spudger underneath the bottom right corner of the iPad.

Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, stopping short about 12 mm before reaching the home button.

Don't insert your slicing tool deeper than 2 mm, or you risk permanently damaging the display panel.

Insert an opening pick underneath the screen just before the home button to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Use the tip of an opening pick or an halberd spudger to slice the adhesive beneath the home button.

Don't insert your slicing tool deeper than 2 mm, or you risk permanently damaging the home button.

Insert an opening pick or a halberd spudger just past the home button.

Use your cutting tool to slice the remaining adhesive underneath the bottom edge of your device.

At this point, you've sliced through most of the screen adhesive. Use an opening pick to carefully slice any remaining adhesive along the edges until the screen is freed.

If some parts are stubborn, heat the area with an iOpener to loosen the adhesive.

The iPad shown in the following two steps is the iPad Pro 12.9" 1st Generation. The internals look slightly different but the taping procedure is the same.

The display cables in this iPad are very short. Read the next two steps before you proceed.

***Do not pivot the screen about the lower edge.*** The display cables don't have enough slack to allow for this and will tear if you do not slide the screen towards the front-facing camera as you lift.

The display cables will tear if you raise the screen more than 90º.

Lift up the upper edge of the screen and slide the entire screen towards the front-facing camera to access the iPad's internal components.

Use masking tape to tape the lower edge of the screen to the frame to prevent the screen from slipping.

This step shows one way to support the screen using masking tape. [https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/qvXtD3DyrUHFqtj5.large|You can also turn the iPad sideways|new_window=true]. Make sure not to strain the display cables with whatever method you choose.

Attach a long strip of masking tape to the top edge of the screen. Fold the tape over the edge and make sure that the tape is attached securely.

Attach the other end of the strip to the bottom edge of the iPad frame to hold the screen at an angle. Make sure the tape attaches securely to the frame.

It's important to disconnect the battery before you proceed further. Detaching or connecting the display cables with the battery plugged in can cause a short that will destroy touchscreen functionality.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the six screws securing the logic board EMI shield:

Two 2.4 mm-long screws

Four 1.2 mm-long screws

Lift the logic board EMI shield from the edge nearest the top of the iPad.

Peel up the EMI shield from the logic board.

This takes a bit of force due to the many tiny clips securing the shield, and the shield may deform slightly. That's okay—try to keep the deformation to a minimum, and it will lay flat when you reinstall it and screw it down.

Remove the logic board EMI shield.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 1.6 mm-long screw securing the battery connector.

These photos show what the battery connector looks like underneath the logic board. Use these photos as a reference while you safely disconnect the battery.

Notice that the battery connector has springs on the logic board that press down against the battery contact pads. You'll need to slide something thin and flexible between the contact points to disconnect the battery.

Use a piar of scissors to cut two 6 mm x 20 mm strips of a playing card to use as a battery blocker.

Gently insert the card strips on each side of the battery connector as far as they will go.

You can also use an iFixit battery blocker. Be very careful and don't push the battery blocker underneath the connector with excessive force.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four screws securing the display connector bracket:

Two 1.2 mm-long screws

Two 2.4 mm-long screws

Remove the display connector bracket.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the display and digitizer cables from their logic board sockets.

To re-attach [guide|25629|press connectors|stepid=70308|new_window=true] like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

***These cables are very delicate, and the connectors can damage easily if they're misaligned.*** When you reattach the cables to the logic board, try to have as much slack on the cables and gently press the connectors onto their sockets.

Remove the screen assembly.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the eight screws securing the top bracket:

Four 2.2 mm-long screws

Two 1.2 mm-long screws

Two 2.4 mm-long screws

The top bracket is still held in place by the two black tapes securing it to the frame.

Apply a [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the top bracket for 1 minute to loosen the adhesive.

Slide the flat end of a spudger underneath the top bracket and lift it up until you can grab it with your fingers.

Remove the top bracket.

Use a spudger to disconnect the front facing camera flex cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

The front facing camera is held in place by mild adhesive.

Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry up the front camera and to separate it from the frame.

The front camera cable is threaded underneath the frame.

Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to pull the front facing camera from underneath the frame and remove it.

Use a spudger to disconnect the top left interconnect cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Slide the point of a spudger under the top left coxial connector.

Pry straight up to disconnect the top left coxial cable.

Carefully bend the coxial cable upwards to free the logic board.

Do not fold the cable sharply and only bend it to avoid cable damage.

Use a spudger to disconnect the speaker and headphone jack cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Carefully bend the cable upwards to free the logic board.

Use a spudger to disconnect the microphone cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Use a spudger to disconnect the top right interconnect cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Slide the point of a spudger under the top right coxial connector.

Pry straight up to disconnect the top right coxial cable.

Carefully bend the coxial cable upwards to free the logic board.

Do not fold the cable sharply and only bend it to avoid cable damage.

Use a spudger to disconnect the sensor and volume button cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Carefully bend the cable upwards to free the logic board.

Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to peel the black tape off the SIM card reader ZIF connector.

There's no need to completely remove the tape. Just peel the part off that sticks to the connector.

Use the point of a spudger to open the ZIF connector by bringing its black flap in an upright position.

The SIM card reader cable is adhered to the logic board cable.

Carefully slide an opening pick underneath the SIM card reader cable to separate it from the logic board cable.

Disconnect the SIM card reader cable by carefully pulling it out of the ZIF connector with a pair of tweezers.

Carefully bend the SIM card reader cable upwards to free the logic board.

Do not fold the cable sharply and only bend it to avoid cable damage.

During reassembly make sure the flap of the ZIF connector is in an upright position. Push the cable back into the ZIF connector and fold the flap down afterwards.

Slide a pair of tweezers under the upper antenna cable at the bottom edge of the logic board until they're snug against the metal connector.

Disconnect the upper antenna cable by prying it straight up from the logic board.

Repeat the procedure with the lower antenna cable.

Both antenna cables are taped down to the frame.

Apply a [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the antenna cables for 1 minute to loosen the adhesive underneath.

Use tweezers to gently lift the right antenna cable connector away from the frame.

Take care not to puncture the battery—a punctured battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a thermal event.

Use your fingers or tweezers to lift and peel up the the right antenna cable from the iPad frame.

Don't pull the cable forcefully. If the cable feels stuck, reapply a heated iOpener to further soften the adhesive.

Repeat the previous step and use your fingers or tweezers to lift and peel up the the left antenna cable from the iPad frame.

Don't pull the cable forcefully. If the cable feels stuck, apply a heated iOpener to further soften the adhesive.

Use a pair of tweezers to fold the smart connector tape to the side to get free access to the smart connector bracket.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the single 1.3 mm-long screw securing the smart connector bracket.

Use a pair of tweezers to pull the smart connector bracket from underneath the frame and remove it.

Use a spudger to disconnect the smart connector cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Carefully bend the smart connector cable upwards to free the battery.

Do not fold the cable sharply and only bend it to avoid cable damage.

During reassembly, follow these tips when you lower the logic board into position:

Be careful not to trap any of the connectors underneath the logic board.

Reinsert the battery blocker into position.

Both the logic board and the logic board cable are adhered to the iPad frame.

Apply a [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the back of the device where the logic board is located to loosen the adhesive underneath. Apply the iOpener for at least 2 minutes.

A hair dryer, [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Heat+Gun+to+Soften+Adhesive/151116|new_window=true|heat gun], or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the device.

The next four steps show how to move the logic board out of the way for battery removal. Read the steps first before you attempt it.

Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the top edge of the logic board.

Carefully lift the logic board by levering the spudger downwards.

Make sure no cables are tangled or interfere with the motherboard during this procedure to avoid cable damage.

Don't try to completely remove the logic board. It's attached to a flex cable that's glued to the iPad frame.

Relocate the spudger and place it at a right angle underneath the logic board to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Remove the loose battery blocker and save it for reassembly.

Reapply a [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the logic board cable for 2 minutes to loosen the adhesive underneath.

Lift the logic board slightly and swing it over its flex cable.

Do not force this action. If there isn't enough slack, apply more heat to the flex cable to loosen the adhesive.

Do not fold the cable sharply and only bend it to avoid cable damage.

During reassembly, apply some Tesa tape or double-sided tape to the flex cable to secure it to the iPad frame.

Once you swing the logic board completely over its flex cable, you can use a piece of tape to secure the logic board out of the way of the battery.

There are four large adhesive pads securing the iPad battery.

To attach a replacement battery, use some double-sided tape such as [https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Tesa-61395-Tape/IF317-072?o=5|Tesa tape|new_window=true], or use some [https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Stretch-Release-Battery-Adhesive/IF145-458?o=1|stretch release adhesive strips|new_window=true].

Tilt the iPad and apply a few drops of high concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol to the inside and bottom edge of the bottom left battery cell.

Wait about two minutes for the alcohol solution to weaken the adhesive.

Slowly slide an [product|IF145-101|plastic card] under the bottom left battery cell to separate it from the frame.

Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with your tool—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.

If you're having difficulty separating the adhesive, apply more high concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol and wait for the adhesive to loosen.

Alternatively, you can [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/ZOLya1dIZMCtTXqO.full|use dental floss|new_window=true] to slice through the adhesive. Wrap the floss around a bit driver handle or your fingers and thread it back and forth under the battery.

Repeat the previous procedure to separate the top left battery cell from the frame:

Apply a few drops of high concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol to loosen the battery adhesive.

Slide a plastic card underneath the top left battery cell to separate it from the frame.

Make sure the left half of the battery is fully separated from the frame by grabbing it on both ends and carefully lift it upwards.

If the battery is sticking to the frame use your plastic card to slice through the remaining adhesive to completely separate the left half of the battery from the frame.

Place a plastic card underneath the center of the left half of the battery to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Tilt the iPad and apply a few drops of high concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol to the inside and bottom edge of the top right battery cell.

Wait about two minutes for the alcohol solution to weaken the adhesive.

Slowly slide an plastic card under the top right battery cell to separate it from the frame.

Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with your tool—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.

If you're having difficulty separating the adhesive, apply more high concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol and wait for the adhesive to loosen.

Repeat the previous procedure to separate the bottom right battery cell from the frame:

Apply a few drops of high concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol to loosen the battery adhesive.

Slide a plastic card underneath the bottom right battery cell to separate it from the frame.

Lift up the battery and remove it from the iPad.

Do not reuse the battery if it has been deformed or damaged, as doing so is a potential safety hazard. Replace it with a new battery.

Before you install a new battery:

Remove all adhesive residue from the iPad frame. Use isopropyl alcohol and a spudger to scrape off any adhesive chunks. Wipe away the adhesive residue with a lint-free cloth.

If there's any alcohol solution remaining in the iPad, carefully wipe it off or allow it to air dry.

Be sure that the iPad frame surface is completely clean and free of debris. An uneven surface can press into the replacement battery, resulting in premature battery failure.