iPad 4th Gen WiFi Antenna Repair

Ensure the battery is entirely drained before attempting this repair. The battery connection in this device is sensitive and you don't want to accidentally provide the board power for a myriad of reasons.

All cords/cables should be removed and the iPad should be fully shut down.

There are important and sensitive connections that you should make note of before attempting this repair. The colored boxes each represent an important component just below the screen.

Exposed LCD Edges

Screen Magnets

Camera Module, Ambient Light & Proximity Sensors, and Microphone

Display Cables

Apply a [guide|11677|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the right edge of the screen for two minutes.

You may use a hair dryer or heat gun but extreme caution should be used because you don't want to over heat any one part of the display.

There is an [guide|152309|additional method for opening|new_window=true] using iFixit's new [product|IF145-513|Anti-Clamp].

If the display is badly cracked, consider cover it with a layer of clear packing tape. This may allow a suction cup to adhere. iFixit even advises using superglue if you are totally replacing the display.

Apply a suction cup to the right edge of the screen about 5 cm from the bottom edge.

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a gap large enough to insert an opening pick no more that 5mm into the iPad.

If you find it helpful, mark the 5mm line on the opening pick with a sharpie before inserting.

Try to remember you only need to create a gap large enough for the opening pick to get in.

Insert another opening pick right next to the original.

Slide the new pick along the right edge to separate the adhesive.

When you get close to the volume buttons make sure the pick isn't inserted more than 2mm

Leave the pick in the top right corner.

Apply the heated iOpener to the top edge of the iPad for two minutes.

The top edge contains the camera module, two ambient light sensors, the proximity sensor, and the front microphone. All of these components are fragile and easily damaged if an opening pick is inserted too far.

This color indicates the location of the ambient light sensors. Avoid inserting the opening pick more than 2mm to avoid damaging the sensors.

This color indicates the location of the camera module, proximity sensor and microphone. Avoid inserting the opening pick more that 1mm to avoid damage.

Insert opening pick #3 around the corner from where you left #2.

Take pick #3 and slide the pick along the top edge. Taking precaution of the components listed in the previous step.

Leave pick #3 on the right side of the ambient light sensor, near the upper left corner.

Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the screen for two minutes.

Insert pick #4 in the bottom right corner below the original pick.

Slide the pick around the bottom right corner taking caution not to insert more than 2mm.

Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge, taking care just above the USB-C port.

Once the pick has made it to the opposite corner, leave pick #4 right above the USB-C port.

Insert opening pick #5 above opening pick #4 and take #5 the rest of the length of the bottom edge and around the left corner. Leave #5 at just above the corner.

Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the screen for two minutes.

The left edge contains several display cables. These are extremely fragile and easily damaged by an opening pick if it's inserted too far.

This color indicates where the display cables are located within small indents of the frame. Best practice is to insert the pick at a 45 degree angle.

This color indications where the flat sections of the frame are. These sections require the pick to be horizontal.

Insert a pick at a 45 degree angle just above the bottom left corner.

Carefully slide the pick along the left edge, stopping when you reach the flats section of the frame.

Separate the remaining adhesive.

Slide the pick at a 45 degree downward angle and don't insert the pick more than 5mm.

Slide the pick horizontally and don't insert more than 5mm

Use yet another opening pick to see if there is any remaining adhesive.

Grave the top right and bottom left corners of the screen and slowly move the screen towards the bottom right side.

The screen is still attached to the iPad by several ribbon cables. While you move the display you can lift it straight up slightly to see their position.

Keep moving the screen until you see the ambient light sensor ribbon cable near the top edge is uncovered.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the ambient light sensor bracket to the logic board.

***One 1.3 mm screw***

***One 2.0 mm screw***

Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] or your fingers to remove the bracket.

During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPad and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your iPad back down before you continue working.

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the ambient light sensor cable by lifting straight up on the press connectors.

The screen is still attached by one more ribbon cable - do not try to remove it yet.

Holding the right edge of the screen, open the iPad like a book.

In order to not strain the ribbon cable let the screen rest over the left side of the iPad.

Using a Phillips head screwdriver, remove the five screws securing the cable shield to the logic board:

Two 2.0 mm screws

Three 1.3 mm screws

Use tweezers or your fingers to grab and remove the lower cable shield.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 1.8 mm screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.

These photos show what the battery connector looks like underneath the logic board. Use these photos as a reference while you safely disconnect the battery.

Notice that the battery connector has cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you'll need to slide something thin and flexible between the contact points to disconnect the battery.

You need to place a barrier between the [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Battery+Blocking/156056#s326385|new_window=true|battery connector] and logic board to disconnect the battery. Follow this step to create a battery blocker out of a playing card.

Cut two 6 mm-wide strips from a playing card to block the connections to the battery.

Insert the card strips under each side of the battery connector.

If you can't slide the cards under the battery connector, use an opening pick to gently lift the connector to help insert the card strips.

Don't pry or lift the connector too much—it's soldered onto the logic board and may break if stressed.

Using the pointed end of a spudger, disconnect the bottom two display cables.

Using the pointed end of a spudger disconnect the top two display cables.

The screen is now entirely disconnected. You may lift it away from the housing.

Use isopropyl alcohol (>90%) and a lint free cloth or q-tip to remove any remaining adhesive on the housing before replacing the display. Remember, without replacing the adhesive strips, your iPad is at serious risk of water damage.

Follow [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iPad+Display+Assembly+3+Pc.+Adhesive+Application/118753|new_window=true|this guide] to install pre-cut adhesive strips on your iPad before sealing it up.

The LiDAR sensor assembly is paired to the Face ID hardware. You'll need to transfer it to your replacement screen to keep Face ID functionality. The following steps show how to remove the sensor assembly and install it on your replacement screen.

Ambient Light Sensors (2)

Microphone

Proximity Sensor

The ribbon cable that connects these sensors is very thin and delicate, take your time and be careful with removal.

Prepare an iOpener. Leave it in place at the top of the display for two minutes.

Using a pair of tweezers, insert one arm between the ambient light sensor and the screen.

Gently pry the sensor up from the screen. This may take considerable force.

Repeat these steps with the other ambient light sensor.

Reheat & reapply your iOpener

Using the same method that we used with the ambient light sensor, use one arm of the tweezers to slip under the ribbon cable and gently pry up.

There may be tape covering the microphone.

Slide the opening tool under the microphone to separate the adhesive.

Pry up to separate the microphone from the screen.

Slide an opening pick under the LiDAR sensor assembly cable to separate it from the screen.

Exercise caution while separating this cable to avoid tearing it.

Continue to use the opening pick to separate the LiDAR cable from the screen.

Some display replacements come without display cables attached. If this is the case, you will need to remove the display cables from your original display.

The bracket in the bottom right corner of the display is covering the display cable connectors.

Use an opening pick to remove the small section of the upper display cable that is attached to the bracket.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 1.2mm screws securing the display cable bracket.

Using a pair of tweezers remove the lower display cable bracket.

Using flat end of a spudger, pry up and disconnect the narrow display cable.

Set the cable aside to connect to your new display.

Repeat this process with the wider display cable.