iPad 4th Gen Charging Port Repair

Allow your iPad's battery to fully drain before starting this repair. A charged battery may catch fire if damaged during the repair.

Unplug any cables and fully shut down your iPad.

Apply a [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the right edge of the screen for two minutes.

A hair dryer, [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Heat+Gun+to+Soften+Adhesive/151116|new_window=true|heat gun], or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the iPad—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

The next three steps demonstrate the [product|IF145-513|Anti-Clamp], a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. ***If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.***

For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, [guide|152309|check out this guide|new_window=true].

Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.

Place an object under your iPad so it rests level between the suction cups.

Position the suction cups near the middle of the right edge—one on the top, and one on the bottom.

Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and firmly press down on the top cup to apply suction.

If you find that the surface of your iPad is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, [guide|159595|use tape|new_window=true] to create a grippier surface.

Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.

Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.

Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.

If your screen isn't getting hot enough, you can use a hair dryer to heat along the right edge of the iPad.

For complete instructions on how to use a hair dryer, [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Hair+Dryer+to+Soften+Adhesive/157348|new_window=true|check out this guide].

Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.

If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.

Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.

***Skip the next step.***

If your screen is badly cracked, [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Tape+Over+a+Cracked+Phone+Screen/140533|covering it with a layer of clear packing tape|new_window=true] may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

Apply a suction handle to the screen as close to the center of the right edge as possible.

Pull up on the suction handle with a strong, steady force to create a small gap between the frame and screen.

The large screen is very fragile. Only create a gap big enough to insert an opening pick.

Insert an opening pick into the gap.

Don't insert the pick more than 5 mm to avoid damaging the screen.

Along the frame's right edge, there are two cutouts for the screen magnets where the adhesive is very thin. As you slice along this edge in the next step, don't insert your opening pick deeper than 2 mm in these locations:

One magnet begins 2 cm from the top edge and is 2.5 cm long.

The second magnet begins 3 cm from the bottom edge and is 2.5 cm long.

Slide your opening pick back and forth along the right edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.

Angle your pick downward and insert it no more than 2 mm near the magnet cutouts and 5 mm everywhere else.

Rotate your opening pick around the bottom right corner of the screen.

Leave your pick in the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Apply a [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the bottom edge of the screen for two minutes.

A hair dryer, [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Heat+Gun+to+Soften+Adhesive/151116|new_window=true|heat gun], or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the iPad—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

Insert a second opening pick in the bottom right corner of the screen.

Don't insert your opening pick more than 5 mm.

Slide your pick to the bottom left corner to slice the bottom edge adhesive.

Rotate your opening pick around the bottom left corner of the screen.

Leave your pick in the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Apply a [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the left edge of the screen for two minutes.

A hair dryer, [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Heat+Gun+to+Soften+Adhesive/151116|new_window=true|heat gun], or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the iPad—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

Along the left edge of the screen, there are three cutouts for cables where the adhesive is very thin. As you slice along this edge in the next step, don't insert your opening pick deeper than 2 mm in these locations:

The upper cutout begins 4 cm from the top edge and is 2.5 cm long.

The middle cutout is exactly in the middle of the frame and is 2.5 cm long.

The lower cutout begins 4 cm from the bottom edge and is 2.5 cm long.

Everywhere else, don't insert your opening pick more than 5 mm.

Insert a third opening pick in the bottom left corner of the screen.

Slide your pick to the top left corner to slice the left edge adhesive.

Rotate your opening pick around the top left corner of the screen.

Leave your pick in the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Apply a [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the top edge of the screen for two minutes.

A hair dryer, [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Heat+Gun+to+Soften+Adhesive/151116|new_window=true|heat gun], or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the iPad—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

While the top edge adhesive softens, note the following:

There are two ambient light sensors near the corners. Only insert the ***very tip*** of your pick here to avoid damaging them.

There are three strips of heat dispersion tape. ***Angle your pick upward*** as you slice here.

The front-facing camera assembly is in the center of the top edge. ***Don't insert your pick here*** to avoid damaging them.

Everywhere else, don't insert your pick deeper than 5 mm to avoid damaging the screen.

Slide your opening pick 9 cm toward the center of the top edge to slice the adhesive, paying attention to the spots mentioned in the previous step.

If you slice farther than 9 cm, you will reach the front camera assembly and risk damaging its components.

Leave your pick inserted. You will use another pick to slice the remaining adhesive.

Insert a fourth opening pick to the right of the front camera assembly, 4 cm from the previous opening pick and 9 cm from the right edge of the screen.

Slide your pick to the top right corner to slice the remaining adhesive.

Grab two opposing corners of the screen and gently shift it around to separate it from the frame.

Don't fully remove the screen yet, as it's still attached by several cables.

If the screen feels stuck, slide your opening picks around the perimeter to separate any remaining adhesive. Pay attention to sensitive components mentioned in the previous steps.

Shift the screen towards the ***bottom right corner of the frame*** until the ribbon cable near the top edge is uncovered.

Throughout this guide, [link|https://www.ifixit.com/products/fixmat|new_window=true|keep track of each screw] and reinstall it exactly where it came from.

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the upper cable shield:

One 1.8 mm-long screw

One 2.0 mm-long screw

During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPad and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your iPad back down before you continue working.

Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers] or your fingers to grab and remove the upper cable shield.

During reassembly, orient the shield so the notch faces up and to the right.

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the upper sensors press connector.

To re-attach [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s70308|press connectors|new_window=true], carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Don't press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend and cause permanent damage.

Grip the right edge of the screen and fold it open like a book.

Don't pull on the screen—the ribbon cables near the bottom are still attached.

Lay the screen down over the left edge of the iPad.

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the five screws securing the lower cable shield:

Four 1.1 mm screws

One 2.0 mm screw

Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers] or your fingers to grab and remove the lower cable shield.

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the 1.7 mm screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the upper two display press connectors from the logic board.

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the lower two display press connectors from the logic board.

Grab and remove the screen from the frame.

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the USB-C port press connector from the logic board.

Apply a [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the USB-C port for two minutes.

Slide an opening pick under the USB-C port cable to separate it from the logic board.

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 1.6 mm-long screws securing the USB-C port.

Grab and remove the USB-C port from its recess in the frame.

Use caution not to lose the grounding contacts on either side of the USB-C recess.

During reassembly, install the USB-C port ***underneath*** the grounding contacts.

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the four screws securing the upper cable shield:

Three 1.1 mm screws

One 2.0 mm screw

Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers] or your fingers to grab and remove the upper cable shield.

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the three press connectors for the IR dot-projector, front camera, and Face ID camera.

Use blunt nose tweezers to grab and peel the left and middle front camera assembly cables from the logic board.

Use your T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the two 2.2 mm screws securing the front camera assembly bracket.

Use the flat end of your spudger to pry the front camera assembly bracket from its recess.

The bracket is secured by heat-resistant epoxy which requires significant force to weaken. Work slowly and avoid prying against the surrounding components.

Use tweezers or your fingers to grab and remove the front camera assembly bracket from its recess.

Use a spudger to scrape and remove any residual epoxy before reinstalling the bracket.

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the six screws securing the rear camera shield:

Three 1.2 mm screws

One 2.8 mm screw

One 2.6 mm screw

One 1.8 mm screw

Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers] or your fingers to grab and remove the rear camera shield.

During reassembly, insert the tab on the left of the shield ***first***.

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect both of the power button's press connectors.

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 2.3 mm screws securing the power button assembly.

Insert the point of your spudger between the left edge of the power button assembly and the frame.

Pry the assembly up from its recess in the frame.

Grab and remove the power button assembly.

Use a spudger to scrape and remove any residual epoxy before reinstalling the assembly.

Push the power button through its recess from the outside of the frame.

Remove the power button.

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the wide-angle camera from the logic board.

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the LiDAR sensor and ultrawide camera from the logic board.

Insert the point of your spudger between the top right corner of the rear cameras and the frame.

Pry the cameras up until you can grab them with [product|IF145-020|tweezers] or your fingers.

Remove the rear cameras.

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 1.9 mm screws securing the Smart Connector cover.

Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers] or your fingers to grab and remove the Smart Connector cover.

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the Smart Connector from the bottom of the logic board.

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the 2.0 mm screw securing the lower left speaker cable shield.

Remove the lower left speaker cable shield.

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the lower speaker press connectors.

Avoid prying against the sides of the connectors. The sockets on the logic board are delicate and may bend if pried against.

Disconnect all four connectors for the lower speakers.

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect all four upper speaker press connectors.

Avoid prying against the sides of the connectors. The sockets on the logic board are delicate and may bend if pried against.

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the upper antenna cable from the right edge of the logic board.

Pry on only the metal head of the connector. Avoid lifting the cable itself as much as possible.

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the lower antenna cable from the left edge of the logic board.

Pry on only the metal head of the connector. Avoid lifting the cable itself as much as possible.

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the remaining two antenna cables from the left edge of the logic board.

Pry on only the metal head of the connector. Avoid lifting the cable itself as much as possible.

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the upper sensor press connector from the logic board.

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the rear sensor press connector from the right arm of the logic board.

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the volume press connector from the right arm of the logic board.

Apply a [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the upper antenna cable and right arm of the logic board for two minutes.

Use blunt nose tweezers or your fingernail to peel the tape securing the upper antenna cable to the right arm of the logic board.

Don't try to fully remove the cable—one more piece of tape secures it to the logic board.

If the tape feels stuck, pull the body of the cable with your fingers as you peel the tape.

Peel the second strip of tape securing the upper antenna cable to the logic board near the rear camera cutouts.

Reposition the cable away from the logic board.

Don't twist or rotate the antenna cable—it's still connected to the antenna.

Apply a [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the lower antenna cable, located along the left edge of the logic board, for two minutes.

Grab the lower antenna cable, just below its metal connector head.

Peel the cable from the left edge of the logic board.

Peel the lower antenna cable from the logic board near the battery connector.

Apply a [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the logic board cover for two minutes.

Use your fingers to grab a corner of the logic board cover.

Peel and remove the cover from the logic board.

Work slowly to avoid tearing the cover.

The cover has many layers. Make sure the copper tape doesn't separate from the foam layer.

Use the flat end of your spudger to slide the bottom right press connector bracket away from the logic board.

Use blunt nose tweezers or your fingers to remove the bracket.

During reassembly, orient the bracket so the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/rEF4VH1eZxqaMQKs.full|new_window=true|outward-bent wings] face the battery.

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the microphone and Apple Pencil charger press connectors.

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 1.8 mm screws securing the logic board.

Apply several drops of highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) to the bottom and right edges of the logic board.

Elevate the right edge of the iPad to allow the isopropyl alcohol to flow under the logic board.

Wait one minute for the isopropyl alcohol to penetrate.

Apply isopropyl alcohol to the right arm and left edge of the logic board.

Elevate the left edge of the iPad to allow the isopropyl alcohol to flow under the logic board.

Wait one minute for the isopropyl alcohol to penetrate.

Insert an opening pick between the bottom edge of the logic board and the Smart Connector.

Remove the card strips blocking the battery connector.

Gently insert the tip of an opening pick between the logic board and the battery connector.

Don't pry on the battery connector or logic board, as the spring connectors are easily damaged.

Leave this pick inserted until the logic board is completely removed.

Use the first opening pick to pry up the left edge of the logic board.

Don't forcefully lever against the battery—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.

If the logic board feels stuck, apply more isopropyl alcohol.

Use your opening pick to pry up the right arm of the logic board.

This arm of the logic board is thin and fragile. Be careful not to bend it.

Use your opening pick to pry up the right edge of the logic board.

Don't forcefully lever against the battery—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.

If the logic board feels stuck, apply more isopropyl alcohol.

Grab and remove the logic board from the frame.

Be careful not to reinstall the logic board on top of any cables or connectors.

During reassembly, apply double-sided tape such as [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Tesa-61395-Tape/IF317-072?o=3|new_window=true|Tesa tape] to secure the logic board if the existing adhesive isn't sufficient.

There are twelve stretch-release adhesive pull tabs securing the batteries to the frame.

The remaining adhesive secures the battery boards to the bottom of the frame, ***and has no stretch-release tabs***.

Use blunt nose [product|IF145-020|tweezers] or your fingers to peel each stretch-release pull tab away from the battery.

Slowly pull the strips straight away from the battery, keeping a low angle to the frame.

Give the strips plenty of time to stretch. If a strip breaks off, try to retrieve it and continue pulling.

***If you removed all 12 stretch-release adhesive strips***, skip [guide|156066|down three steps|stepid=326639].

***If any strips broke off***, follow the next two steps for an alternative method to remove the battery.

This step shows how to soften any stretch-release adhesives that broke off in the previous step.

Apply several drops of highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) to the inside edges of the batteries near any broken strips of stretch-release adhesive.

Elevate each edge of the iPad to allow the isopropyl alcohol to flow under the batteries.

Wait one minute for the isopropyl alcohol to penetrate.

Slide a [product|IF145-101|plastic card] under the left battery near any broken strips of stretch-release adhesive.

Slide the plastic card along the length of the battery to separate any remaining adhesive. Don't slide your card underneath the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/ET3aAe3fH4NQxTMv.huge|battery boards|new_window=true].

Don't puncture or bend the battery. If it feels stuck, apply more isopropyl alcohol or apply a [guide|25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the back of the frame.

Repeat this step for the right battery.

Elevate the top edge of the iPad and raise the left battery to allow access underneath the battery board.

Don't raise the battery more than 45 degrees.

Apply a few drops of isopropyl alcohol to the battery board.

Repeat this step for the right battery.

Lay your iPad flat and slide your plastic card at a slight angle under the outer edge of the left battery board.

Straighten the plastic card and fully insert it under the battery board to slice the adhesive.

Repeat this step for the right battery.

Grab both halves of the battery by the upper corners and remove them from the frame.

Be careful not to twist or pull the cable connecting the halves of the battery.

Clean any remaining adhesive with a few drops of isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth.

***Don't reuse your old battery***. A damaged or deformed battery is a safety hazard.

During reassembly, apply double-sided tape such as [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Tesa-61395-Tape/IF317-072?o=3|new_window=true|Tesa tape] under the new battery.