Google Pixel 7a Water Damage Repair
Complete guide to Google Pixel 7a water damage repair. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.
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💰 Cost Breakdown
💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.
🔧 Repair Overview
Water Damage Repair is one of the most common repairs for Google Pixel 7a. This repair involves replacing the damaged recovery component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 2-4 hours and requires difficult skill level.
What You'll Need
- Replacement recovery part (OEM or aftermarket)
- Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
- Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
- Adhesive strips or glue
- Clean workspace with good lighting
Step-by-Step Process
Step 1: Prepare your phone for disassembly
Allow your battery to drain below 25% before starting this repair. A charged lithium-ion battery is a potential safety hazard.
Unplug any cables from your phone and fully power it down.
Step 2: Soften the adhesive
Apply [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|new_window=true|a heated iOpener] to the bottom edge of the rear cover for three minutes.
Alternatively, you can use a [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Hair+Dryer+to+Soften+Adhesive/157348|new_window=true|hair dryer], [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Heat+Gun+to+Soften+Adhesive/151116|new_window=true|heat gun], or hot plate to warm the rear cover.
Only heat the phone enough so it's just hot to the touch. Extreme heat can damage the screen, rear cover, or battery.
Step 3: Secure an Anti-Clamp
The next three steps demonstrate the [product|IF145-513|Anti-Clamp], a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. ***If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.***
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, [guide|152309|check out this guide|new_window=true].
Pull the blue handle backward to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
Slide the arms over the bottom edge of the phone, with one suction cup on the rear cover and one on the screen.
Squeeze the cups together to create suction.
Step 4: Use the Anti-Clamp to create a gap
Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
Turn the handle clockwise ***one full turn*** (360 degrees), or until the suction cups begin to stretch.
As the cups stretch, make sure they stay aligned with each other. If they keep slipping, remove the Anti-Clamp and [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+the+Anti-Clamp+on+Difficult+Surfaces/159595|new_window=true|apply tape for the cups to stick to].
Step 5: Insert an opening pick using the Anti-Clamp
While the heat from an iOpener is sufficient to separate the rear cover, it might cool down while you set up the Anti-Clamp. Reheat the rear cover if you need more time to set it up.
Place an object under your phone so it rests level while between the Anti-Clamp's arms.
Wait one minute, or until the adhesive separates, for a gap to form along the bottom edge of the phone.
Insert an opening pick into the gap between the rear cover and the frame.
If the adhesive doesn't separate, twist the handle clockwise ***one quarter turn*** and wait another minute. Apply more heat with a [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Hair+Dryer+to+Soften+Adhesive/157348|new_window=true|hair dryer] or [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Heat+Gun+to+Soften+Adhesive/151116|new_window=true|heat gun] if the rear cover cools down.
Remove the suction cups from the phone using their pull-tabs and set the Anti-Clamp aside.
Step 6: Insert an opening pick using a suction handle
If you've already inserted an opening pick using the Anti-Clamp, ***skip this step***.
Apply a suction handle to the center of the bottom edge of the rear cover.
Pull up on the suction handle with a strong, steady force until a gap forms between the rear cover and frame.
Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.
Remove the suction handle.
Step 7: Adhesive information
The rear cover is secured with adhesive around the perimeter of the frame and near the cameras. Use this picture as a reference while you slice the adhesive.
Step 8: Angle the opening pick
Angle the opening pick upward so the tip faces away from the frame.
From here on, keep all opening picks angled upward while slicing until the rear cover is fully removed.
Slide your pick to the bottom left corner of the rear cover.
Leave this pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 9: Separate the bottom edge adhesive
Insert a second opening pick in the bottom left corner.
Slide the new pick to the bottom right corner of the rear cover to separate the bottom edge adhesive.
Leave this pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 10: Soften the right edge adhesive
Apply a [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|new_window=true|heated iOpener] to the right edge of the rear cover for two minutes.
Alternatively, you can use a [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Hair+Dryer+to+Soften+Adhesive/157348|new_window=true|hair dryer], [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Heat+Gun+to+Soften+Adhesive/151116|new_window=true|heat gun], or hot plate to warm the rear cover. Remember to not overheat the phone.
Step 11: Separate the right edge adhesive
Don't insert your pick deeper than ***5 mm*** along the right edge to avoid damaging the wireless charging coil.
For a visual reference, you can measure 5 mm from the tip and [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/hFAE3UQgkx1wT5Gy.huge|new_window=true|mark your pick] with a permanent marker.
Insert a third opening pick in the bottom right corner of the rear cover.
Slide your pick up the right edge of the rear cover to separate its adhesive. ***Stop when you reach the camera bar***.
Leave this pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 12: Soften the left edge adhesive
Apply a [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|new_window=true|heated iOpener] to the left edge of the rear cover for two minutes.
Alternatively, you can use a [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Hair+Dryer+to+Soften+Adhesive/157348|new_window=true|hair dryer], [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Heat+Gun+to+Soften+Adhesive/151116|new_window=true|heat gun], or hot plate to warm the rear cover. Remember to not overheat the phone.
Step 13: Separate the left edge adhesive
Don't insert your pick deeper than ***3 mm*** along the left edge to avoid damaging the wireless charging coil and [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/gjeGlvbCBHGUYuGY.huge|new_window=true|rear cover foam pad].
For a visual reference, you can measure 3 mm from the tip and [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/W2PlcjxfdWMLXoUd.huge|new_window=true|mark your pick] with a permanent marker.
Insert a fourth opening pick in the bottom left corner of the rear cover.
Slide your pick up the left edge of the rear cover to separate the adhesive. ***Stop when you reach the camera bar.***
Leave this pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 14: Soften the top edge adhesive
Apply a [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|new_window=true|heated iOpener] to the top edge of the rear cover for two minutes.
Alternatively, you can use a [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Hair+Dryer+to+Soften+Adhesive/157348|new_window=true|hair dryer], [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Heat+Gun+to+Soften+Adhesive/151116|new_window=true|heat gun], or hot plate to warm the rear cover. Remember to not overheat the phone.
Step 15: Separate the antenna bracket adhesive
There's a thick strip of adhesive [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/oaPcuMeFDgCAMgP1.huge|new_window=true|along the antenna housing].
Insert a fifth opening pick in the top left corner of the rear cover between 8 mm and 10 mm (0.3–0.4 in) deep, or just over halfway between the tip of the pick and the iFixit logo.
If you can't insert the pick, start with the small gap near the camera bar from the previous pick.
Slide your pick halfway across the top edge to separate the antenna bracket adhesive. Stop at the halfway point along the top edge.
Step 16: Separate the remaining top edge adhesive
Pull your opening pick out to a depth of ***3 mm***.
Slide your pick to the top right corner to slice the rest of the top edge adhesive.
Don't insert your pick deeper than 3 mm to avoid damaging the antenna housing graphite tape.
Step 17: Rotate your top edge opening picks
Remember to angle your picks upward and away from the frame during this step.
Roll the top edge pick so its flat edge is under the rear cover.
Roll the picks on each side of the camera bar so their flat edges are under the camera bar.
Step 18: Pry up the camera bar
There's a [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/kpCHyguGfW1jKl1d.huge|new_window=true|long strip of adhesive] securing the rear cover below the camera bar.
Use the opening picks under the camera bar to pry the top edge of the rear cover from the frame.
Pry back and forth until the camera bar loosens.
Be careful not to bend the rear cover. Only pry enough to loosen the adhesive near the camera bar. If the adhesive feels stubborn, rotate the rear cover side-to-side to further loosen the adhesive.
Step 19: Finish separating the adhesive
Slide the opening picks from the camera bar down the long edges of the rear cover to separate any adhesive that may have resealed.
Step 20: Remove the rear cover
Remove the rear cover.
During reassembly:
Now is a good time to test your phone before sealing it up. Power it on and check that it works. Power it back down before you continue reassembly.
Step 21: Soften the flash unit adhesive
Apply a [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|new_window=true|heated iOpener] to the flash unit for one minute to soften the adhesive securing it to the logic board cover.
Alternatively, you can use a [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Hair+Dryer+to+Soften+Adhesive/157348|new_window=true|hair dryer] or [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Heat+Gun+to+Soften+Adhesive/151116|new_window=true|heat gun] to warm the flash.
Only heat the flash so it's warm to the touch. The battery and surrounding components are susceptible to heat damage.
Step 22: Separate the flash unit adhesive
Be careful not to slip and tear the flash cable, as it's very fragile.
Slide your pick under the right edge of the flash to separate the adhesive securing it to the cover.
Step 23: Clean the logic board cover
If the copper tape lifted away with the flash, use [product|IF145-020|tweezers] or your fingers to remove the black foam residue from the logic board cover.
Step 24: Remove the old copper tape
Be careful not to damage the battery with your tool during this step.
Apply a [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the underside of the flash for one minute.
Hold the neck of the flash cable steady and use tweezers to peel and remove the copper tape from the flash unit.
If the copper tape stayed on the logic board cover and you have a replacement, remove the old tape now.
Step 25: Unfasten the logic board cover
While the Pixel 7a uses [link|https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torx#Torx_Plus|Torx Plus|new_window=true] screws, standard Torx drivers ''may'' still work. If your kit came with standard Torx bits, use the T2 bit to remove [product|IF145-373-88|1IP Torx Plus|new_window=true] screws, and the T3 Torx bit to remove 3IP Torx Plus screws. ***Make sure to apply constant, downward force to prevent stripping.***
Use a 3IP Torx Plus driver to remove the thirteen 4.3 mm screws securing the logic board cover.
Use a 1IP Torx Plus driver to remove the 1.5 mm screw securing the right edge of the cover.
Step 26: Unclip the logic board cover
Insert an opening pick between the bottom right corner of the logic board cover and the frame.
Pry up to release the clip securing the cover.
Step 27: Free the flash unit
Slowly lift the top edge of the logic board cover and thread the flash unit through its cutout.
During reassembly, thread the flash through its cutout as you lower the logic board into place.
Step 28: Remove the wireless charging assembly
Remove the wireless charging assembly.
Step 29: Remove the connector cover
Use your 1IP Torx Plus driver to remove the 1.5 mm screw securing the connector cover.
Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers] or your fingers to remove the cover.
During reassembly, place the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/uVutZyV13dYObIgC.huge|upper left corner of the cover|new_window=true] under the hook on the logic board before installing its screw.
Step 30:
The Verizon model (G0DZQ) Google Pixel 7a has an extra cable and connector for the 5G mmWave antenna. Unless otherwise mentioned, the rest of the guide procedure is the same for either type of phone.
Step 31: Disconnect the battery
Insert the flat end of a spudger under the top edge of the battery press connector.
Pry straight up to disconnect the battery press connector.
To reconnect a [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s70308|new_window=true|press connector], align it over the socket and gently press down on one side until it clicks into place, then press down on the other side. It might take a few tries to align the connector.
Step 32: Disconnect the 5G mmWave antenna
***Verizon models***: Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the 5G mmWave press connector.
Step 33: Move the cables
Move the battery cable toward the bottom of the phone, out of the way of the battery.
***Verizon models***: Move the 5G mmWave cable toward the top of the phone.
Step 34: Peel up the battery jacket
Peel up both sides of the battery jacket from the battery.
If you're using a tool, be careful not to puncture the battery.
Step 35: Soften the battery adhesive
Two strips of adhesive secure the upper half of the battery. The battery jacket is just below these strips.
Flip the phone over and use a [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Hair+Dryer+to+Soften+Adhesive/157348|new_window=true|hair dryer], [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Heat+Gun+to+Soften+Adhesive/151116|new_window=true|heat gun], or hot plate to ***evenly*** heat the screen until the entire frame is warm to the touch.
Be careful not to overheat the screen, as it's susceptible to heat damage. Don't concentrate the heat in any one spot.
Step 36: Slide the battery jacket
Firmly grip both sides of the battery jacket. Hold them at a low angle, but up high enough so they don't snag on any logic board components or the frame.
Slide each end of the jacket toward the top of the battery in a sawing motion to cut through the bottom portion of adhesive.
It might take a lot of back and forth sawing motions before the adhesive comes loose. If the jacket rips, ***skip down two steps*** for an alternate method.
Stop sawing when the jacket reaches halfway up the battery.
Step 37: Lift the battery
Firmly pull up on each end of the battery jacket for one minute to slowly allow the adhesive to loosen.
If the battery still feels stuck, apply more heat or skip to the next step for an alternate method.
Step 38: Alternate method to remove the battery
If you couldn't remove the battery using the jacket, follow the next three steps for an alternate method.
Fill a pipette or syringe with highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (over 90%).
Apply a few drops of isopropyl alcohol between the left edge of the battery and the frame.
Wait one minute for the adhesive to soften.
Step 39:
Move the side button tab to the left, away from the battery.
Insert the flat end of an opening pick between the left edge of the battery and the frame.
Step 40:
Take care not to deform or puncture the battery—a damaged battery is a potential safety hazard.
Firmly bend the opening pick away from the battery. Keep steady pressure on the pick for one minute.
Once the adhesive begins to separate, slide your pick deeper under the battery and continue prying it up.
If, after a minute, the adhesive doesn't loosen, apply a few more drops of isopropyl alcohol and try again.
Step 41: Remove the battery
Remove the battery.
Step 42: Prepare your frame for reassembly
The next three steps show how to apply new adhesive and install a new battery.
Use the flat end of your spudger to scrape an edge of the old adhesive into a ball large enough to grip with a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers].
Use tweezers or your fingers to peel and remove the old adhesive from the frame.
If any residue remains, apply a few drops of highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) to the frame and wipe it with a lint-free or microfiber cloth.
Step 43:
If your battery comes with adhesive pre-installed, ***remove its adhesive liners and skip this step***.
Peel the two strips of battery adhesive from their large liner.
Apply the short strip of adhesive to the right side of the battery recess, using the white lines on the frame to position it.
Apply the long strip of adhesive to the left side of the recess.
Remove the blue liners from the adhesive strips.
Step 44: Align and secure the battery
While holding the battery just above its recess in the frame, reconnect its cable.
Press the battery into place.
Disconnect the battery.
📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.
iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm
DIY vs Professional Repair
✋ DIY Repair
- ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $60-$240)
- ✅ Learn new skills
- ❌ Risk of further damage
- ❌ No warranty
- ❌ Requires tools and time
🔧 Professional Repair
- ✅ Expert installation
- ✅ Warranty included
- ✅ Faster turnaround
- ❌ Higher cost ($100-$400)
- ❌ Need to find reputable shop
Environmental Impact
By choosing to repair your Google Pixel 7a instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 48 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new Google Pixel 7a generates 58 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 10 kg of CO₂. That's a 83% reduction in carbon emissions!
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