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Google Pixel 7 Pro Camera Repair

Complete guide to Google Pixel 7 Pro camera repair. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.

💰 Cost:$60 - $250
⏱️ Time:30 min - 1 hour
🌍 CO₂ Saved:61 kg

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💰 Cost Breakdown

Parts$36 - $150
Labor$24 - $100
Total Estimated Cost$60 - $250

💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.

🔧 Repair Overview

Camera Repair is one of the most common repairs for Google Pixel 7 Pro. This repair involves replacing the damaged optics component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 30 min - 1 hour and requires moderate skill level.

🔧 Required Tools

🔩 Replacement Parts

What You'll Need

  • Replacement optics part (OEM or aftermarket)
  • Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
  • Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
  • Adhesive strips or glue
  • Clean workspace with good lighting

Step-by-Step Process

Step 1: Safety precautions

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Allow your battery to drain below 25% before starting this repair. A charged battery may catch fire if damaged.

Fully power off your phone and unplug any cables.

Step 2: Screen removal information

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The screen of the Google Pixel 7 Pro is held in place by plastic clips and adhesive. Note the following:

''Screen seam'': This seam separates the screen from the rest of the phone. ***Do not pry at this seam.***

''Bezel seam'': This is where the plastic bezel designed to protect the screen meets the frame. It's held in place by [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/DVtjMyTTEnTEBZeQ.full|plastic clips|new_window=true]. ***This is where you should pry.***

During the removal procedure, make sure to insert your opening picks in the right position to avoid separating the screen from its safety frame.

Only insert the pick up to ~3.5 mm during the removal procedure to avoid damaging the internals and to avoid interfering with the plastic clips.

There are several plastic clips around the whole screen. If your opening pick gets blocked during the screen removal procedure, you've inserted your pick too deep underneath the screen.

Step 3: Anti-Clamp instructions

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The next three steps demonstrate the [product|IF145-513|Anti-Clamp], a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. ***If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.***

For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, [guide|152309|check out this guide|new_window=true].

If your screen is cracked, cover it with a layer of clear packing tape to help the suction cup adhere.

Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.

Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your phone.

Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the phone—one on the front, and one on the back.

Squeeze the cups together to apply suction.

If you find that the surface of your phone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can [guide|159595|use tape|new_window=true] to create a grippier surface.

Step 4:

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Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.

Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.

Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

Step 5:

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You can also use a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true] or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true]—but extreme heat can damage the display and/or internal battery, so proceed with care.

Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the phone.

Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.

Insert an opening pick under the screen frame when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.

If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.

Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.

***Skip the next two steps.***

Step 6: Loosen the display adhesive

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Apply a [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the screen to loosen the adhesive underneath. Apply the iOpener for at least 3 minutes.

A hair dryer, [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Heat+Gun+to+Soften+Adhesive/151116|new_window=true|heat gun], or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the device. The edge should feel slightly too hot to the touch.

Step 7: Insert an opening pick

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Once the screen is warm to the touch, apply a suction handle to the bottom edge of the screen.

If your display is badly cracked, [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Tape+Over+a+Cracked+Phone+Screen/140533|covering it with a layer of clear packing tape|new_window=true] may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

Lift the screen including its safety frame with the suction handle to create a small gap between the screen and the phone assembly.

Depending on the age of your phone, this may be difficult. If you're having trouble, apply more heat to the bottom edge and try again.

Insert an opening pick into the gap.

Step 8: Prevent damage to your phone

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To avoid damaging your phone, ***don't insert your pick more than ~2.5 mm as you separate the screen adhesive***. Note the following areas:

The screen cable is a little less than halfway up the left edge of the phone. Be very careful here to avoid tearing the cable.

There are many spring contacts around the perimeter of the phone. Be very careful in these areas to avoid bending the contacts.

Step 9: Slice the bottom edge adhesive

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Slide the opening pick to the bottom right corner of the screen to slice its adhesive.

Leave the opening pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 10:

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Insert a second opening pick at the bottom edge and slide it to the bottom left corner of the screen to slice the adhesive.

Leave the opening pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

There's a [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/cYvFwJr6WZBDBTA1.full|plastic clip in the bottom left corner|new_window=true] that will block your opening pick. Only use the tip of the opening pick (~1 mm) to work your way around it.

Step 11: Release the left clips

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Insert a third opening pick underneath the bottom left corner of the screen.

Slide the opening pick along the left edge of the screen to slice the adhesive and to release the plastic clips.

Leave the opening pick in the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 12: Slice the top edge adhesive

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If the adhesive becomes hard to cut, it has most likely cooled down. [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|new_window=true|Use your iOpener] or heat gun for 1-2 minutes to reheat it.

When you slice near the front facing camera, insert only the tip of the opening pick (~2.5 mm) to avoid damaging or smearing the camera.

Insert a fourth opening pick at the top left corner of the screen.

Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the phone to slice the adhesive.

Leave the opening pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 13: Release the right clips

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Insert a fifth opening pick and slide it along the right edge of the phone to slice the remaining adhesive and release the right plastic clips.

Do not try to remove the display all the way yet, the screen is still connected to the phone assembly by a flex cable.

Step 14: Open up the phone

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Lift the right edge of the screen up and towards the left side of the device, like opening a book.

Don't twist the screen or move it too far away from the frame to avoid straining or damaging the flex cable.

Rest the screen upside down and parallel to the frame.

Step 15: Release the display cable bracket

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The display cable bracket sits tightly and requires some force to release it.

Insert one arm of a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] into the opening at the upper end of the display cable bracket.

Push the bracket inwards and pry up to release it.

Step 16: Remove the display cable bracket

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Use a pair of tweezers to remove the display cable bracket by pulling it from underneath the midframe and in direction of the camera.

Step 17: Disconnect the display cable

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Use a spudger to disconnect the display flex cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

To re-attach [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s70308|press connectors|new_window=true] like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Step 18: Screen information

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***The back of the Pixel's screen is very fragile. Even a small scratch or dent can damage the screen.***

To prevent damaging your screen or replacement screen:

When handling your screen, grip it by its edges.

When placing the screen on your work area, make sure nothing is touching the bottom of the screen. Consider placing it on a soft, lint-free cloth.

Step 19: Separate the screen

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Separate the screen from the phone assembly.

During reassembly:

Check that all screws are tightened and there are no loose parts.

Reconnect the screen and test your phone to make sure it works. Power it back down and continue reassembly.

Apply new adhesive where it's necessary after cleaning the relevant areas with isopropyl alcohol (>90%).

During the boot-up process after reassembly, the screen will go through a calibration sequence. Do not touch the screen during this process, as it could result in improper touch calibration and create touch issues.

Step 20: Peel off the graphite foil

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Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to carefully peel the graphite foil off the battery and midframe.

Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with your tool—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.

If you're having a hard time peeling off the foil, you can apply a [guide|25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the back of the device for two minutes to loosen its adhesive.

Step 21: Unfasten the charging port bracket screws

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Use a Torx T3 screwdriver to remove the two 5.1 mm-long screws securing the charging port bracket.

Step 22: Remove the charging port bracket

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Use a pair of tweezers to remove the charging port bracket.

Step 23: Unfasten the midframe screws

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Use a Torx T3 screwdriver to remove the six 5.1 mm-long screws securing the midframe.

Step 24: Remove the midframe

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Use a pair of tweezers to remove the midframe.

During reassembly check the condition of the thermal pad. If it's damaged, remove the pad, clean the area with high-concentration (greater than 90%) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber or lint-free cloth, and apply a new thermal pad.

Step 25: Disconnect the battery cable

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Use a spudger to disconnect the battery cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Step 26: Unfasten the mmWave antenna bracket screw

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The next seven steps show how to remove the mmWave antenna.

Use a Torx T3 screwdriver to remove the 5.1 mm-long screw securing the mmWave antenna bracket.

Step 27: Remove the mmWave antenna bracket

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Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to remove the mmWave antenna bracket.

Step 28: Disconnect the mmWave antenna cable

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Use a spudger to disconnect the mmWave antenna cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Step 29: Loosen the mmWave antenna cable

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The mmWave antenna cable is held in place by mild adhesive.

Slide an opening pick underneath the mmWave antenna cable starting at its bottom end.

Use the opening pick to separate the mmWave antenna cable from the motherboard.

Step 30:

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Repeat the previous procedure and use the opening pick to separate the horizontal part of the mmWave antenna cable from the motherboard.

Step 31: Remove the mmWave antenna assembly

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Use a pair of tweezers to lift the mmWave antenna including its cable out of its recess.

Remove the mmWave antenna assembly.

During reassembly check the condition of the thermal pad. If it's damaged, remove the pad, clean the area with high-concentration (greater than 90%) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber or lint-free cloth, and apply a new thermal pad.

Step 32: Unfasten the rear camera assembly screws

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Use a Torx T3 screwdriver to remove the two 5.1 mm-long screws securing the rear camera assembly.

Step 33: Remove the spring

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Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to remove the spring at the top left corner of the rear camera assembly.

Step 34: Disconnect the front facing camera

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Use a spudger to disconnect the front facing camera cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Fold the cable upwards to free the rear camera assembly.

Do not fold the cable sharply or you'll damage the cable.

Step 35: Disconnect the camera cables

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Use a spudger to disconnect the telephoto camera cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Step 36:

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Use a spudger to disconnect the wide and ultrawide camera cables by prying the connectors straight up from their sockets.

Step 37: Remove the rear camera assembly

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Remove the rear camera assembly.

If your replacement camera module has a plastic spacer, be sure to remove it before you install the module.

Make sure the lens surface is smudge and dust free before you install the camera assembly.

📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.

iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm

DIY vs Professional Repair

✋ DIY Repair

  • ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $36-$150)
  • ✅ Learn new skills
  • ❌ Risk of further damage
  • ❌ No warranty
  • ❌ Requires tools and time

🔧 Professional Repair

  • ✅ Expert installation
  • ✅ Warranty included
  • ✅ Faster turnaround
  • ❌ Higher cost ($60-$250)
  • ❌ Need to find reputable shop

Environmental Impact

By choosing to repair your Google Pixel 7 Pro instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 61 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new Google Pixel 7 Pro generates 65 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 4 kg of CO₂. That's a 94% reduction in carbon emissions!

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