Google Pixel 6 Pro Camera Repair
Complete guide to Google Pixel 6 Pro camera repair. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.
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💰 Cost Breakdown
💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.
🔧 Repair Overview
Camera Repair is one of the most common repairs for Google Pixel 6 Pro. This repair involves replacing the damaged optics component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 30 min - 1 hour and requires moderate skill level.
What You'll Need
- Replacement optics part (OEM or aftermarket)
- Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
- Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
- Adhesive strips or glue
- Clean workspace with good lighting
Step-by-Step Process
Step 1: Safety precautions
Allow your battery to drain below 25% before starting this repair. A charged battery may catch fire if damaged.
Fully power off your phone and unplug any cables.
Step 2: Anti-Clamp instructions
The next three steps demonstrate the [product|IF145-513|Anti-Clamp], a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. ***If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.***
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, [guide|152309|check out this guide|new_window=true].
If your screen is cracked, cover it with a layer of clear packing tape to help the suction cup adhere.
Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your phone.
Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the phone—one on the front, and one on the back.
Squeeze the cups together to apply suction.
If you find that the surface of your phone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can [guide|159595|use tape|new_window=true] to create a grippier surface.
Step 3:
Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
Step 4:
You can also use a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true] or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true]—but extreme heat can damage the display and/or internal battery, so proceed with care.
Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the phone.
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
Insert an opening pick under the screen frame when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.
Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
***Skip the next two steps.***
Step 5: Loosen the display adhesive
Apply a [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the screen to loosen the adhesive underneath. Apply the iOpener for at least 3 minutes.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the device.
Step 6: Insert an opening pick
Once the screen is warm to the touch, apply a suction handle to the bottom edge of the screen.
If your screen is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction handle to adhere. Alternatively, [link|https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/4MmKE22Cy2MavVZU|very strong tape|new_window=true] may be used instead of the suction handle. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction handle to the screen.
Lift the screen including its safety frame with the suction handle to create a small gap between the screen and the phone assembly.
Insert an opening pick into the gap between the screen frame and the phone assembly.
Make sure to insert your opening pick in [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/IgZauhWmS5jXpBqS.full|the right position|new_window=true] to avoid separating the screen from its safety frame instead of the phone assembly.
Slide the opening pick to the bottom left corner of the screen to slice its adhesive.
Leave the opening pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 7: Slice the adhesive
Insert a second opening pick at the bottom edge and slide it to the bottom right corner of the screen to slice the adhesive.
Leave the opening pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 8:
The screen of the Google Pixel 6 Pro is not only held in place by adhesive but also [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/MWZEylSFOnORFn2c.full|small plastic pins|new_window=true]. In case your opening pick gets blocked during the screen removal procedure it means you inserted your pick too deep underneath the screen. Only insert the tip of the opening pick (~3-4 mm) when slicing the display adhesive.
Insert a third opening pick underneath the bottom left corner of the screen.
Slide the opening pick along the left edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.
Leave the opening pick in the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 9:
If the adhesive becomes hard to cut, it has most likely cooled down. [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|new_window=true|Use your iOpener] or heat gun for 1-2 minutes to reheat it.
When you slice near the front facing camera, insert only the tip of the opening pick (~2-3 mm) to avoid damaging or smearing the camera.
Insert a fourth opening pick at the top left corner of the screen.
Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the phone to slice the adhesive.
Leave the opening pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 10:
Insert a fifth opening pick and slide it along the right edge of the phone to slice the remaining adhesive.
Do not try to remove the display all the way yet, the screen is still connected to the phone assembly.
Step 11: Open up the phone assembly
Avoid straining the display cable during the following procedure.
Carefully fold the screen to the left side of the phone assembly like you would open the front cover of a book.
Step 12: Unfasten the display bracket screw
While the Pixel 6 Pro uses Torx Plus screws, standard Torx bits work. Make sure to apply constant, downward force to prevent stripping.
Use a Torx T3 screwdriver to remove the 2.0 mm-long 3IP Torx Plus screw securing the display cable metal bracket.
Throughout this repair, [https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Magnetic-Project-Mat/IF145-167-4|keep track of each screw|new_window=true] and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.
Step 13: Remove the display cable bracket
Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to remove the metal bracket sitting on top of the display cable connector.
Make sure to keep this component to reinstall it during reassembly.
Step 14: Disconnect the display cable
Use a spudger to disconnect the display flex cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
Step 15: Screen information
***The back of the Pixel's screen is very fragile. Even a small scratch or dent can damage the screen.***
To prevent damaging your screen or replacement screen:
When handling your screen, grip it by its edges.
When placing the screen on your work area, make sure nothing is touching the bottom of the screen. Consider placing it on a soft, lint-free cloth.
Step 16: Remove the screen
Remove the screen.
During reassembly:
If you replaced the screen, check the screen's front-facing camera hole and sensor cutout for any protective liners. Remove these liners before you close the phone up.
***Remember to reinstall the display cable bracket.***
This is a good point to test your phone before sealing it up. Temporarily connect your screen, power on your phone, and make sure it works as expected. Before continuing with reassembly, ***power off your phone and disconnect the screen***.
If you're installing a new screen, follow [guide|166753|this guide|new_window=true] to calibrate the fingerprint sensor.
Step 17: Loosen the graphite film adhesive
Apply a [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] or a heat gun to the rear glass to loosen the adhesive underneath the graphite films on top of the battery. Apply the iOpener for at least two minutes.
Don't apply heat directly onto the battery. It is susceptible to heat damage and could cause a thermal event.
Step 18: Remove the graphite film
Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with your tool—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a thermal event.
Use a pair of blunt nose [product|IF145-020|tweezers] or a clean fingernail to carefully peel the black graphite film off the bottom edge of the battery and the motherboard shield.
Remove the graphite film.
Step 19: Peel off the graphite film
If you want to replace your battery it's enough to peel the bottom part of the graphite film off the battery. If you want to replace your rear camera you need to [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/xJWClysQldSZShD3.full|remove it completely|new_window=true]. In case you only want to replace the earpiece speaker or the front facing camera, you can leave it in its place.
Use a pair of blunt nose tweezers or a clean fingernail to carefully peel the black graphite film off the top right corner of the battery.
Fold the graphite film in direction of the selfie camera to get free access to the battery.
Step 20: Remove the graphite film
If the graphite film becomes hard to peel off, it has most likely cooled down. [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|new_window=true|Reapply your iOpener] or heat gun to the rear glass for 1-2 minutes to reheat it.
Use a pair of blunt nose tweezers or a clean fingernail to carefully peel the black graphite film off the left edge of the battery and the motherboard shield.
Step 21: Unfasten the charging port bracket screws
Use a Torx T3 screwdriver to remove the two 5.1 mm-long 3IP Torx Plus screws securing the charging port metal bracket.
Step 22: Remove the charging port bracket
Use a pair of tweezers to remove the charging port bracket.
Make sure to keep this component to reinstall it during reassembly.
Step 23: Unfasten the motherboard cover screws
Use a Torx T3 screwdriver to remove the five 5.1 mm-long 3IP Torx Plus screws securing the motherboard cover.
Step 24: Remove the motherboard cover
Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to carefully remove the motherboard cover.
Step 25: Disconnect the battery cable
Use a spudger to disconnect the battery cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
Step 26: Unfasten the camera connector cover screws
Use a Torx T3 screwdriver to remove the two 5.1 mm-long 3IP Torx Plus screws securing the camera connector cover.
Step 27: Remove the camera connector cover
Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to remove the camera connector cover.
Make sure to keep this component to reinstall it during reassembly.
Step 28: Unfasten the camera assembly screw
Use a Torx T3 screwdriver to remove the single 3.3 mm-long 3IP Torx Plus screw securing the camera assembly.
Step 29: Peel off the copper foil
Use a pair of tweezer to carefully peel the top half of the copper foil off the metal spacer and fold it back.
During reassembly, make sure the copper foil is not touching any components besides the rear camera assembly and components it was originally adhered to.
Step 30: Disconnect the telephoto cable
Use a spudger to disconnect the telephoto cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
Step 31: Disconnect the camera cables
Use a spudger to disconnect the cables of the wide and ultrawide cameras by prying their connectors straight up from their sockets.
Step 32: Remove the camera assembly
Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to carefully lift the camera assembly out of its recess and remove it.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
If your replacement camera module has a plastic spacer, be sure to remove it before you install the module.
Make sure the lens surface is smudge and dust free before you install the camera assembly.
📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.
iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm
DIY vs Professional Repair
✋ DIY Repair
- ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $36-$150)
- ✅ Learn new skills
- ❌ Risk of further damage
- ❌ No warranty
- ❌ Requires tools and time
🔧 Professional Repair
- ✅ Expert installation
- ✅ Warranty included
- ✅ Faster turnaround
- ❌ Higher cost ($60-$250)
- ❌ Need to find reputable shop
Environmental Impact
By choosing to repair your Google Pixel 6 Pro instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 61 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new Google Pixel 6 Pro generates 65 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 4 kg of CO₂. That's a 94% reduction in carbon emissions!
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