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Google Pixel 5a Logic Board Repair

Complete guide to Google Pixel 5a logic board repair. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.

💰 Cost:$300 - $800
⏱️ Time:3-6 hours
🌍 CO₂ Saved:36 kg

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💰 Cost Breakdown

Parts$180 - $480
Labor$120 - $320
Total Estimated Cost$300 - $800

💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.

🔧 Repair Overview

Logic Board Repair is one of the most common repairs for Google Pixel 5a. This repair involves replacing the damaged logic component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 3-6 hours and requires difficult skill level.

🔧 Required Tools

🔩 Replacement Parts

What You'll Need

  • Replacement logic part (OEM or aftermarket)
  • Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
  • Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
  • Adhesive strips or glue
  • Clean workspace with good lighting

Step-by-Step Process

Step 1: Eject the SIM card tray

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Insert a SIM card eject tool into the small hole on the right side edge of the frame.

A standard [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/SIM-Card-Eject-Tool/IF145-091?o=1|SIM card eject tool] may be too wide for the job. Don't force the tool in—use a small paperclip, or a properly sized tool, like the [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/iFixit-Precision-4-mm-Screwdriver-Bit/IF145-373?o=49|SIM eject bit].

Press firmly until you feel the SIM card tray pop out.

Remove the SIM card tray from the phone.

Step 2: Precautionary notes

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Be sure to turn off your device before you begin the repair.

You'll need to pry the screen up to remove it from the phone. Read the following notes carefully before proceeding.

Take note of the two seams on the edge of the phone:

''Screen seam'': This seam separates the screen from the rest of the phone. ***Do not pry at this seam.***

''Bezel seam'': This is where the plastic bezel designed to protect the screen meets the frame. It's held in place by plastic clips. ***This is where you should pry.***

Step 3: Heat the right edge of the screen

Step 3 - Image 1

Depending on the strength of your device's adhesive, you may need to reapply the iOpener multiple times in order to weaken it enough.

A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.

Step 4: Bezel removal note

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To remove the screen, you'll need to insert opening picks in between the black clips that secure the bezel to the midframe.

Note the optimal points of entry before proceeding.

Step 5: Create a gap between the bezel and midframe

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If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

Place a suction cup as close to the right edge of the screen as possible.

Lift the suction cup with a strong steady force until a small gap forms between the bezel and midframe.

Step 6: Insert an opening pick

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The bezel is connected to the midframe by a series of plastic clips which can be detached by inserting an opening pick at points all along the seam.

Insert the tip of an opening pick into the ''bezel seam'' about 4-5 cm from the bottom of the phone.

Step 7:

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Insert the tip of an opening pick into the ''bezel seam'' about 3-4 cm from the top of the phone.

Step 8:

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Insert the tip of an opening pick into the ''bezel seam'' at the top of the phone.

If this step proves difficult, slide the pick along the top right corner of the phone until there is enough of a gap at the top for the opening pick.

Step 9:

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Insert the tip of an opening pick into the ''bezel seam'' at the bottom of the phone.

If this step proves difficult, slide the pick along bottom right corner of the phone until there is enough of a gap at the bottom for the opening pick.

Step 10:

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Insert the tip of an opening pick into the ''bezel seam'' on the left side of the phone, about 2 cm from the bottom of the phone.

Step 11:

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Insert the tip of an opening pick into the ''bezel seam'' about 3-4 cm below the front-facing camera.

Step 12:

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Be sure to detach all the clips. Slice through any remaining adhesive with an opening pick.

Open the device from the right side like a book.

Step 13:

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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the 4.6 mm-long screw securing the screen connector bracket.

Throughout this repair, [https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Magnetic-Project-Mat/IF145-167-4|keep track of each screw|new_window=true] and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

Step 14: Remove the connector bracket

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Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to remove the screen connector bracket.

Step 15: Remove the screen

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Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the screen flex cable.

To re-attach [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s70308|new_window=true|press connectors] like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Step 16: Screen information

Step 16 - Image 1

***The back of the Pixel's screen is very fragile. Even a small scratch or dent can damage the screen.***

To prevent damaging your screen or replacement screen:

When handling your screen, grip it by its edges.

When placing the screen on your work area, make sure nothing is touching the bottom of the screen. Consider placing it on a soft, lint-free cloth.

Step 17:

Step 17 - Image 1

Remove the screen from the phone.

During reassembly:

If you replaced the screen, check the screen's front-facing camera hole and remove any protective liners covering it.

***Remember to reinstall the screen connector bracket.***

If you are using a custom-cut adhesive, follow [guide|155756|this guide|new_window=true] to correctly apply new screen adhesive.

If you are using Tesa tape to reattach the screen, [guide|113604|follow this guide].

During the boot-up process after reassembly, the screen will go through a calibration sequence. Do not touch the screen during this process, as it could result in improper touch calibration and create touch issues.

Step 18: Remove the screws

Step 18 - Image 1

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove six of the screws securing the midframe to the motherboard:

Four 4.6 mm screws

One 4.0 mm screw

One 2.0 mm screw

Since a few of these screws have different lengths, keep track of each screw and be sure to reinstall them in their proper places.

Step 19: Remove the black plastic cover

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Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up on the black plastic cover at the bottom left of the phone.

Step 20:

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Slide the pointed end of the spudger left until the plastic cover is completely separated from the midframe.

Remove the plastic cover from the midframe.

Step 21:

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Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to slightly peel back the tape concealing the two screws securing the charging port bracket.

Step 22: Remove the remaining screws

Step 22 - Image 1

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the remaining four screws securing the midframe to the motherboard:

Three 4.6 mm screws

One 4.0 mm screw

Step 23:

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Use a spudger or a pair of tweezers to peel back the tape securing the charging port bracket to the speaker assembly.

Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with your tool—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.

Step 24:

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Use a ***blunt*** pair of tweezers, or your fingers, to carefully peel back the graphite sheet covering the battery.

Be careful not to accidentally puncture or otherwise damage the battery when gripping the graphite sheet.

Step 25: Detach the midframe

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Insert the pointed end of a spudger under the top right corner of the midframe.

There is a black plastic clip at the top of the midframe that secures it to the top of the frame. To detach it, use the spudger to pull the midframe down and then pry up.

Step 26: Remove the midframe

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Remove the midframe.

Step 27: Replace the plastic bits

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There are two small plastic bits that help hold the midframe in place. Take care not to misplace them, as without the midframe to hold them in place, they are very easy to lose.

Be sure to place these back into their respective corners ***before*** replacing the midframe when reassembling your device.

Step 28: Disconnect the battery

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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up on the battery connector to disconnect it.

Step 29: Remove the 16 MP Ultrawide camera

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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up on the 16 MP Ultrawide camera's connector to disconnect it.

Remove the 16 MP Ultrawide camera.

Step 30: Remove the 12.2 MP Wide-Angle camera

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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up on the 12.2 MP Wide-Angle camera's connector to disconnect it.

Remove the 12.2 MP Wide-Angle camera.

Step 31: Disconnect the headphone jack

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Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up on the headphone jack connector to disconnect it.

Step 32: Remove the headphone jack

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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up on the headphone to pop it out of its socket.

Remove the headphone jack.

Step 33: Disconnect the fingerprint sensor cable

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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up on the fingerprint sensor connector to disconnect it.

Step 34: Disconnect the camera flash cable

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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up on the camera flash connector to disconnect it.

Step 35: Remove the motherboard screws

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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the three 2.9 mm screws securing the motherboard to the frame.

Step 36:

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Insert the flat end of a spudger under the top right corner of the motherboard to lift it from the frame.

The SIM card tray also secures the motherboard to the frame, so double-check that it has been removed before this step.

Step 37:

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Insert the flat end of a spudger under the top left corner of the motherboard to lift it from the frame.

Step 38:

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Insert the pointed end of a spudger under the the screw slot to the top right of the speaker assembly to dislodge it from the frame.

Be careful not to deform the battery when prying at the speaker assembly.

Step 39: Remove the motherboard

Step 39 - Image 1

Remove the motherboard and speaker assembly.

📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.

iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm

DIY vs Professional Repair

✋ DIY Repair

  • ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $180-$480)
  • ✅ Learn new skills
  • ❌ Risk of further damage
  • ❌ No warranty
  • ❌ Requires tools and time

🔧 Professional Repair

  • ✅ Expert installation
  • ✅ Warranty included
  • ✅ Faster turnaround
  • ❌ Higher cost ($300-$800)
  • ❌ Need to find reputable shop

Environmental Impact

By choosing to repair your Google Pixel 5a instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 36 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new Google Pixel 5a generates 56 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 20 kg of CO₂. That's a 64% reduction in carbon emissions!

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