Google Pixel 4a Vibration Motor Repair

Insert a SIM eject tool, bit, or straightened paper clip into the SIM tray hole.

Press directly into the hole to eject the SIM card tray.

Remove the SIM card tray.

You will need to pry the screen up to remove it from the phone. Read the following notes carefully before proceeding.

Take note of the two seams on the edge of the phone:

''Screen seam:'' This seam separates the screen from the rest of the phone. '''This is where you should pry'''.

''Frame seam:'' This is where the plastic frame meets the back cover. It is held in place by screws. '''Do not pry at this seam'''.

Before you begin, note the following areas on the screen:

''Screen flex cable:'' Do not insert the opening pick deeper than instructed or you risk damaging this cable.

Note the orange ribbon cable under the lower-right corner of the screen, which is susceptible to damage if your opening pick is pressed into it. ***Only insert your opening pick as little as is necessary to separate the screen adhesive.***

''Adhesive perimeter:'' Prying beyond this narrow perimeter without angling the pick will damage the OLED panel.

A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.

If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

Place a suction cup as close to the right edge of the screen as possible.

Lift the suction cup with a strong steady force.

Insert the tip of an opening pick into the ''screen seam'' '''no more than 1 mm.'''

This step shows how to insert the pick without damaging the OLED panel. Do this before beginning to slice the adhesive.

With the pick '''1 mm''' into the gap, pivot the pick upwards to a steep angle.

At a steep angle, carefully push the pick into the gap about 1/4 inch (6 mm). The pick should slide in '''below''' the OLED panel.

'''Stop if you feel the point of the pick hitting a ridge.''' The pick may be pressing against the edge of the OLED panel. Angle the pick and try again.

Slide the pick along the right edge of the screen to cut the adhesive.

Do not insert the pick more than 1/4 inch (6 mm) or you may damage the screen's flex cable.

Leave the pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

The screen adhesive is very weak and you should not need to re-apply heat. If the screen does feel hard to slice, apply heat to the difficult area for one minute and try again.

Insert another opening pick into the right edge of the phone at an angle where a gap has already formed to prevent damage to the OLED panel.

Slide the opening pick around the bottom of the phone to cut the adhesive.

There is a delicate cable under the bottom-right corner of the screen. If you feel your opening pick snag on anything, pull it out and try again. Make sure your pick is angled downward and only inserted as little as is necessary to separate the adhesive (no more than 2 mm deep).

Leave the pick inserted along the bottom edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Insert another opening pick into the bottom edge of the phone at an angle where a gap has already formed to prevent damage to the OLED panel.

Use the pick to slice through the left edge of the phone.

If the screen feels hard to slice, heat the left edge for one minute and try again.

Leave the pick inserted along the left edge of the phone to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

There's a mesh covering the earpiece speaker on the top edge of the screen. If you don’t have a replacement mesh, take care not to damage or lose this component.

Insert another opening pick into the left edge of the phone at an angle where a gap has already formed to prevent damage to the OLED panel.

Slide the pick around the top edge of the phone to cut the adhesive.

If the screen feels hard to slice, heat the top edge for one minute and try again.

Once you have cut around the perimeter of the phone, carefully lift the right edge of the screen, opening the phone like a book.

Do not remove the screen yet.

Use an opening pick to carefully cut through any remaining adhesive.

Lift from the top edge and swing the screen over the bottom edge until you can rest it glass-side down.

Be careful not to put any stress on the attached ribbon cable.

Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to carefully peel up the black tape covering the screen connector bracket.

If it is in good condition, you can re-use this tape during reassembly. Otherwise, replace it with a piece of electrical tape.

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.1 mm screws securing the screen connector bracket.

Throughout this repair, [https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Magnetic-Project-Mat/IF145-167-4|keep track of each screw|new_window=true] and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the screen connector bracket.

Make sure to keep this component to reinstall it during reassembly.

Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the screen flex cable.

To re-attach [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s70308|new_window=true|press connectors] like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Remove the screen.

To install a new screen:

Check if your replacement screen has speaker mesh and top edge adhesive pre-installed.

If it does, you won't need the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/URl4UmAoxJKgCBvy.full|top edge adhesive|new_window=true].

If it doesn't, remove the larger clear liner from the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/URl4UmAoxJKgCBvy.full|top edge adhesive|new_window=true] and apply it to the ***''screen''*** (not the frame). Make sure the larger cutout lines up with the speaker mesh.

Follow [guide|126585|this guide|new_window=true] to apply the custom-cut adhesive.

Use the third photo as a reference to position your adhesives.

During the boot-up process after reassembly, the screen will go through a calibration sequence. Don't touch the screen during this process, as it could result in improper touch calibration and create touch issues.

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the eight 4.3 mm screws securing the back cover to the midframe.

This photo shows the midframe components behind the back cover. Note the spring contacts near the edge of the midframe. As you slice with the opening pick in the next step, ***be sure not to insert the pick more than 2 mm*** to avoid damaging the spring contacts.

In the next three steps, be careful not to insert the opening pick ***more than 2 mm*** into the seam.

Insert an opening pick into the seam between the midframe and the back cover. Angle the pick downwards at a steep angle into the seam.

Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the phone to release the plastic clips securing the back cover to the midframe.

Slide the opening pick around the left edge of the phone to release the plastic clips securing the back cover to the midframe.

Slide the opening pick around the top and right edges of the phone to release the rest of the clips.

Carefully swing the back cover from the bottom of the phone over the top and around the back.

Lay the back cover on the work surface and lightly rest the midframe on the back cover, being careful not to put any stress on the attached ribbon cables.

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the seven screws securing the motherboard bracket:

Three 2.9 mm-long black screws

Three 2 mm-long screws

One 4.1 mm-long screw

Use the tip of a spudger to unclip the motherboard bracket from the upper-right and lower-right corners of the motherboard.

Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to remove the motherboard bracket.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery cable.

Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the two flex cables connecting the fingerprint sensor and buttons to the motherboard.

Remove the back cover.

Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack cable from the motherboard.

Insert an opening pick under the headphone jack and twist to release it from the adhesive securing it to the midframe.

Remove the headphone jack.

Pry up with the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera from the motherboard.

Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to remove the front-facing camera.

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 4.1 mm screws securing the loudspeaker assembly.

Insert the tip of a spudger underneath the loudspeaker assembly.

Be careful not to puncture the white membrane on either side of the speaker if you are intending to reuse it.

Flip the loudspeaker assembly over so it lightly rests on top of the battery.

Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the antenna flex cable from the loudspeaker assembly.

Carefully peel the loudspeaker assembly up off of the tape underneath it.

Be careful not to puncture the white membrane on either side of the speaker if you are intending to reuse it.

Remove the loudspeaker assembly.

Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the loudspeaker cable from the motherboard.

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the three screws securing the motherboard:

Two 2.9 mm-long black screws

One 2.1 mm-long screw

Use the corner of an opening pick to peel up the tape covering the earpiece speaker.

Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to completely remove the tape covering the earpiece speaker.

It is not required to reinstall this tape during reassembly.

Insert the tip of a spudger underneath the bottom edge of the motherboard and pry it up enough to grip it with your fingers.

Remove the motherboard.

Use the tip of a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to pry the vibration motor straight off of the midframe.

The vibration motor is secured with some light adhesive.

Remove the vibration motor.