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Google Pixel 1 Vibration Motor Repair

Complete guide to Google Pixel 1 vibration motor repair. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.

💰 Cost:$40 - $110
⏱️ Time:30 min - 1 hour
🌍 CO₂ Saved:58 kg

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💰 Cost Breakdown

Parts$24 - $66
Labor$16 - $44
Total Estimated Cost$40 - $110

💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.

🔧 Repair Overview

Vibration Motor Repair is one of the most common repairs for Google Pixel 1. This repair involves replacing the damaged haptic component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 30 min - 1 hour and requires easy skill level.

🔧 Required Tools

🔩 Replacement Parts

What You'll Need

  • Replacement haptic part (OEM or aftermarket)
  • Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
  • Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
  • Adhesive strips or glue
  • Clean workspace with good lighting

Step-by-Step Process

Step 1: Prepare your Pixel for disassembly

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***Let your Pixel's battery drain below 25% before starting this repair.*** A charged lithium‑ion battery may catch fire if damaged.

Unplug all cables and completely power down your phone.

Step 2: Cracked glass preparation

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Glass shards can complicate disassembly—or worse, cause injury. If your phone's back glass is cracked, follow this step.

Apply strips of packing tape to the cracked glass until it's completely covered—this will help keep the glass contained and allow the suction cup to stick.

Make sure there's a ***single strip*** (''not'' overlapping) of tape across the ***bottom edge***, big enough for a suction cup to fit on.

Only cover the glass itself—don't stick any tape to the frame.

Consider wearing safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

Step 3: Heat the bottom edge

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Adhesive secures the back glass to the frame. Heating the glass softens the adhesive, making it easier to separate.

Alternatively, you can use a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true] or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true] to heat the back glass.

Only heat your phone so it's just hot to the touch. Extreme heat can damage the battery, screen, or internal components.

Step 4: Apply a suction handle

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Apply a suction handle to the center of the back glass's bottom edge, as close to the edge as possible.

Step 5: Insert an opening pick

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Pull up on the suction handle with strong, steady force until a gap forms between the back glass and frame.

Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.

Step 6: Back glass adhesive information

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The back glass is secured with adhesive around the perimeter of the frame. Use this picture as a reference while you separate the adhesive.

A cable connects the back glass near the power button. ***Don't insert your pick here to avoid damaging the cable***.

Step 7: Separate the bottom edge adhesive

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If the back glass feels stuck at any point during the next few steps, apply heat to the area and try again.

Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge to separate the adhesive.

Leave the pick inserted under the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from re‑sealing.

Step 8: Separate the bottom left adhesive

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Insert a second pick under the bottom left corner and slide it up the left edge, ***stopping at the power button***.

Leave the pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from re‑sealing.

Step 9: Separate the right edge adhesive

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Insert a third pick under the bottom right corner of the back glass and slide it up the right edge.

Leave the pick inserted under the top right corner.

Step 10: Separate the top edge adhesive

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Insert a fourth pick under the top right corner.

Slide the pick along the top edge and slightly around the top left corner, stopping at the bottom of the camera bump.

Don't try to fully remove the screen yet, as it's still connected by a ribbon cable.

Step 11: Prop up the back glass

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Flip the back glass over the left side of the phone and use the suction handle (or a sturdy object) to prop it up.

If the back glass still feels stuck, go back around the perimeter with an opening pick and separate any remaining adhesive.

Step 12: Remove the bracket screws

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Use a Torx Plus 3IP screwdriver to remove the two 5.0 mm‑long screws securing the back glass connector bracket.

Step 13:

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Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the bracket.

Be careful not to scratch or smudge the rear cameras.

Step 14: Disconnect the back glass

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Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the back glass [guide|25629|press connector|stepid=70308|new_window=true].

Step 15: Remove the back glass

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Remove the back glass.

Step 16: Remove the bottom speaker screws

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Use a Torx Plus 3IP screwdriver to remove the two 5.0 mm‑long screws securing the bottom speaker.

Step 17: Remove the bottom speaker

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Pull the speaker towards the top of the phone and remove it.

Step 18: Remove the USB‑C board cover

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Use a Torx Plus 3IP screwdriver to remove the two 5.0 mm‑long screws securing the USB‑C board cover.

Step 19:

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Remove the USB‑C board cover.

Step 20: Disconnect the USB‑C board

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Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the two [guide|25629|press connectors|stepid=70308|new_window=true] from the top edge of the USB‑C board.

Step 21:

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Use your finger to gently lift the wider cable near the right edge of the board, so it's out of the way.

Step 22: Pry up the USB‑C board

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Use the point of a spudger to pry up and unclip the top edge of the USB‑C board.

Be careful not to damage the battery—your tool should only press against the metal lip of the frame.

Step 23: Remove the USB‑C board

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Hold the interconnect cable out of the way and pull the USB‑C board towards the top of the phone to remove it.

Step 24: Apply isopropyl alcohol

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Apply ***one drop*** of high‑concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol to the ***bottom edge*** of the vibration motor.

Applying more than one drop on any other edge risks the alcohol flowing through the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/lI5LsuaqFOKsN3FH.full|cutout|new_window=true] in the frame and damaging the screen.

Wait one minute for the alcohol to soften the adhesive securing the vibration motor.

Step 25: Remove the vibration motor

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Use a spudger to pry up the vibration motor and remove it.

Step 26:

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Congratulations on completing disassembly! ***The remaining steps will show how to reassemble your phone.***

Step 27: Remove the old adhesive

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Use a spudger to scrape up and remove any bits of vibration motor adhesive from the frame.

Wrap a spudger in a microfiber or lint‑free cloth and apply ***one drop*** of high‑concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol.

Use the spudger to clean up any adhesive residue from the vibration motor's spot on the frame.

Remember not to let any alcohol get into the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/lI5LsuaqFOKsN3FH.full|cutout|new_window=true] on the frame.

Allow the alcohol to dry completely before continuing.

Step 28: Apply adhesive

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Cut strips of [product|IF317-072-6|thin, double‑sided tape|new_window=true] and apply them to the bottom of the vibration motor.

Step 29: Install the vibration motor

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Lay the vibration motor into its recess so the gold contacts are facing up on the left side.

Firmly press the vibration motor into place to secure it with the adhesive.

Step 30: Insert the USB‑C board

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Make sure both cables that connect to the USB‑C board are out of the way—you may need to hold the interconnect cable up as you insert the board.

Insert the USB‑C board at a slight downward angle, guiding the port into its recess.

With the board in place, press down firmly on the center of the top edge to clip the board in place.

Step 31: Connect the USB‑C board cables

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Use your finger to press down and connect the two press connectors to the top edge of the USB‑C board.

Step 32: Install the USB‑C board cover

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Put the USB‑C board cover back into place, sliding the tabs on the top corners [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/2gnhWmJ5xqjVMOYf.full|under their hooks|new_window=true].

Step 33:

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Use a Torx Plus 3IP screwdriver to install the two 5.0 mm‑long screws securing the USB‑C board cover.

Step 34: Install the bottom speaker

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Slide the bottom speaker into place at a slight downward angle so the speaker gasket goes into its cutout.

Press the bottom speaker down firmly into its recess.

Step 35:

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Use a Torx Plus 3IP screwdriver to install the two 5.0 mm‑long screws securing the bottom speaker.

Step 36: Remove the old back glass adhesive

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Before installing new adhesive, all the old adhesive and its residue must be completely removed from the frame.

Take your time during the next two steps. A clean frame allows replacement adhesive to lay totally flat, ensuring a better seal for your back glass.

Step 37:

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Removing all the old adhesive can be very tricky and time‑consuming.

Use the point of a spudger to remove all the old screen adhesive from the frame. Try to "roll" the adhesive onto itself so it balls up, making it easier to remove.

If you're having trouble removing smaller chunks, apply a single drop of high‑concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol and scrape them up with your spudger.

Step 38:

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Wrap a microfiber or lint‑free cloth around a spudger and apply a single drop of high‑concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol to the end.

Use the spudger to clean up all the remaining adhesive residue from the frame, applying more drops of alcohol as necessary.

Step 39:

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If you're reinstalling your original back glass, repeat the procedures in the previous two steps on the back glass to clean it.

Step 40: Orient the adhesive

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Before applying the back glass adhesive, make sure you know how it will sit on the frame. If you apply the adhesive incorrectly, you'll need to restart with new adhesive.

Hold the adhesive above the frame to find its orientation. Use the rear camera cutout in the liner to help visualize how it will lay in the frame.

Step 41:

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Peel down the ***top half*** of the large, clear liner to expose the adhesive—don't fully remove the liner yet.

Step 42: Install the back glass adhesive

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Take your time aligning the adhesive with the frame—it's very sticky and can't be moved after you apply it.

With the larger, clear liner folded towards the bottom of the phone, lay the exposed top edge of the adhesive onto the frame.

Use the lip of the frame to help align the adhesive.

Once the top edge is properly aligned, gently press down on the top corners to secure the adhesive.

Step 43:

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Slowly lay the rest of the adhesive onto the frame, pressing it into place and peeling away the larger liner as you go.

Step 44:

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Use a spudger to press down firmly on the adhesive to secure it to the frame.

Step 45: Remove the larger liner

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Slowly peel up and remove the large colored liner, gripping it from the cutout near the top edge.

If the adhesive starts to peel up with the liner, check that you’ve pushed all of it into place with your spudger. If it continues to peel up, hold it down with the point of your spudger as you go.

Step 46:

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Use a spudger to press down firmly on the adhesive to secure it to the frame.

Step 47: Remove any liners from the back glass

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If you're installing a new back glass, your replacement will have various protective liners and pieces of tape on the underside that must be removed. Your part may have different pieces in different locations, so make sure to check carefully!

Remove all liners from the underside of the back glass, paying special attention to the front camera cutouts and bottom edge.

Usually, you can identify the liners by their pull tabs.

Step 48: Prop the back glass up

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Apply a suction handle to the back glass and prop it up on the left side of your phone, so the cable is near its connector.

Alternatively, you can use a sturdy object (such as a stack of books) to prop up the back glass.

Step 49: Connect the back glass cable

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Use the flat end of a spudger to connect the back glass press connector to its socket.

This can be tricky, as there's very little play in the cable. Move the back glass as necessary to help, and don't try to force the connector into place—reposition it and try again.

Step 50: Install the bracket

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Put the cable's bracket back in place, making sure the tab on the right edge goes [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/EbxfkMOTUBevHTQn.full|under its groove|new_window=true].

Step 51:

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Use a Torx Plus 3IP screwdriver to install the two 5.0 mm‑long screws securing the bracket.

Step 52: Remove the remaining liners

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Remove the remaining liners from the back glass adhesive.

If the adhesive starts to peel up with the liner, check that you’ve pushed all of it into place with your spudger. If it continues to peel up, hold it down with the point of your spudger as you go.

Step 53: Install the back glass

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Flip the back glass onto the frame and press it firmly into place.

Hold your phone up and squeeze firmly around the perimeter to strengthen the bond.

For an even stronger bond, you can [guide|165811|stack books on the back glass|stepid=349253|new_window=true] or use [guide|142291|screen vise clamps|new_window=true].

📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.

iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm

DIY vs Professional Repair

✋ DIY Repair

  • ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $24-$66)
  • ✅ Learn new skills
  • ❌ Risk of further damage
  • ❌ No warranty
  • ❌ Requires tools and time

🔧 Professional Repair

  • ✅ Expert installation
  • ✅ Warranty included
  • ✅ Faster turnaround
  • ❌ Higher cost ($40-$110)
  • ❌ Need to find reputable shop

Environmental Impact

By choosing to repair your Google Pixel 1 instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 58 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new Google Pixel 1 generates 60 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 2 kg of CO₂. That's a 97% reduction in carbon emissions!

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