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Google Pixel 1 Charging Port Repair

Complete guide to Google Pixel 1 charging port repair. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.

💰 Cost:$40 - $120
⏱️ Time:30 min - 1 hour
🌍 CO₂ Saved:57 kg

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💰 Cost Breakdown

Parts$24 - $72
Labor$16 - $48
Total Estimated Cost$40 - $120

💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.

🔧 Repair Overview

Charging Port Repair is one of the most common repairs for Google Pixel 1. This repair involves replacing the damaged connectivity component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 30 min - 1 hour and requires easy skill level.

🔧 Required Tools

🔩 Replacement Parts

What You'll Need

  • Replacement connectivity part (OEM or aftermarket)
  • Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
  • Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
  • Adhesive strips or glue
  • Clean workspace with good lighting

Step-by-Step Process

Step 1: Prepare your Pixel for disassembly

Step 1 - Image 1

Unplug all cables from your phone.

***Let your Pixel's battery drain ''completely'' (until it dies) before starting this repair.*** A charged lithium‑ion battery may catch fire if damaged.

Step 2: Cracked glass preparation

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Glass shards can complicate disassembly—or worse, cause injury. If your phone's back glass is cracked, follow this step.

Apply strips of packing tape to the cracked glass until it's completely covered—this will help keep the glass contained and allow the suction cup to stick.

Make sure there's a ***single strip*** (''not'' overlapping) of tape across the ***bottom edge***, big enough for a suction cup to fit on.

Only cover the glass itself—don't stick any tape to the frame.

Consider wearing safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

Step 3: Heat the bottom edge

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Adhesive secures the back glass to the frame. Heating the glass softens the adhesive, making it easier to separate.

Alternatively, you can use a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true] or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true] to heat the back glass.

Only heat your phone so it's just hot to the touch. Extreme heat can damage the battery, screen, or internal components.

Step 4: Apply a suction handle

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Apply a suction handle to the center of the back glass's bottom edge, as close to the edge as possible.

Step 5: Insert an opening pick

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Pull up on the suction handle with strong, steady force until a gap forms between the back glass and frame.

Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.

Step 6: Back glass adhesive information

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The back glass is secured with adhesive around the perimeter of the frame. Use this picture as a reference while you separate the adhesive.

A cable connects the back glass near the power button. ***Don't insert your pick here to avoid damaging the cable***.

Step 7: Separate the bottom edge adhesive

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If the back glass feels stuck at any point during the next few steps, apply heat to the area and try again.

Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge to separate the adhesive.

Leave the pick inserted under the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from re‑sealing.

Step 8: Separate the bottom left adhesive

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Insert a second pick under the bottom left corner and slide it up the left edge, ***stopping at the power button***.

Leave the pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from re‑sealing.

Step 9: Separate the right edge adhesive

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Insert a third pick under the bottom right corner of the back glass and slide it up the right edge.

Leave the pick inserted under the top right corner.

Step 10: Separate the top edge adhesive

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Insert a fourth pick under the top right corner.

Slide the pick along the top edge and slightly around the top left corner, stopping at the bottom of the camera bump.

Don't try to fully remove the screen yet, as it's still connected by a ribbon cable.

Step 11: Prop up the back glass

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Flip the back glass over the left side of the phone and use the suction handle (or a sturdy object) to prop it up.

If the back glass still feels stuck, go back around the perimeter with an opening pick and separate any remaining adhesive.

Step 12: Remove the bracket screws

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Use a Torx Plus 3IP screwdriver to remove the two 5.0 mm‑long screws securing the back glass connector bracket.

Step 13:

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Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the bracket.

Be careful not to scratch or smudge the rear cameras.

Step 14: Disconnect the back glass

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Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the back glass [guide|25629|press connector|stepid=70308|new_window=true].

Step 15: Remove the back glass

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Remove the back glass.

Step 16: Remove the motherboard cover screws

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Use a Torx Plus 3IP screwdriver to remove the two 5.0 mm‑long screws securing the motherboard cover.

Step 17: Remove the motherboard cover

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Use a spudger to lift the motherboard cover, then grip the cover and slowly peel the graphite sheet off the battery.

Step 18: Disconnect the battery

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Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery [guide|25629|press connector|stepid=70308|new_window=true].

Step 19: Disconnect the interconnect cable

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Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the interconnect cable press connector from the bottom right of the motherboard.

Step 20: Remove the USB‑C board cover

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Use a Torx Plus 3IP screwdriver to remove the two 5.0 mm‑long screws securing the USB‑C board cover.

Step 21:

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Remove the USB‑C board cover.

Step 22: Disconnect the interconnect cable

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Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the interconnect cable press connector from the USB‑C board.

Step 23: Remove the interconnect cable

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Remove the interconnect cable.

Step 24: Peel up the battery pull tab

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Use your fingers to peel up the entire battery tab on the left side of the battery, including the skinny strip running along the side.

Step 25:

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Wear [product|IF145-136|finger stalls|new_window=true] to help get a solid grip on the battery pull tabs and frame in the next step.

If you don't have finger stalls, use [product|IF145-372|latex/nitrile or rubber gloves|new_window=true] instead.

Step 26: Separate the battery adhesive

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Secure the right side of your phone with one hand, and use your free hand to grip the battery pull tab.

Make sure your hand securing the phone is mainly pressing on the frame—it shouldn't be covering the battery or pressing down on delicate components.

Pull straight up on the tab and apply ***constant, steady force*** until the adhesive separates.

Step 27: Remove the battery

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Grip the battery and slowly pull it away from your phone to peel the plastic sleeve out of the recess.

Remove the battery.

Step 28:

Step 28 - Image 1

Congratulations on completing disassembly! ***The remaining steps will show how to reassemble your phone.***

Step 29: Clean the battery recess

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Before installing a new battery, check the recess for leftover bits of plastic, as well as adhesive residue from the battery sleeve.

If the battery came out cleanly, you can skip this step.

Remove any bits of plastic from the old battery sleeve.

Use ***one or two drops*** high‑concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber or lint‑free cloth to clean up any adhesive residue.

Be careful not to get alcohol in the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/D4BhHUTaOqxdneYu.full|cutouts in the battery recess|new_window=true]—the bottom of the screen is exposed and may get damaged.

Allow the alcohol to dry completely before continuing.

Step 30: Remove the plastic liner

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Remove the large, colored liner from the battery to expose the adhesive.

Step 31: Install the battery

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Hold the battery above its recess and use your finger to push down and reconnect the battery press connector.

Temporarily reconnecting the battery ensures that it's sitting properly in its recess.

Lay the battery into its recess and press down firmly to secure it.

Step 32: Disconnect the battery

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Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector.

Step 33: Remove any remaining liners

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Use your fingers to remove any remaining stickers or liners from the battery.

Step 34: Install the interconnect cable

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Lay the interconnect cable back in place, making sure the connectors line up with their sockets.

Step 35: Connect the interconnect cable

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Use your finger to press down and reconnect the interconnect cable press connector to its socket on the motherboard.

Step 36:

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Use your finger to press down and reconnect the interconnect cable press connector to its socket on the USB‑C board.

Step 37: Install the USB‑C board cover

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Put the USB‑C board cover back into place, sliding the tabs on the top corners [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/2gnhWmJ5xqjVMOYf.full|under their hooks|new_window=true].

Step 38:

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Use a Torx Plus 3IP screwdriver to install the two 5.0 mm‑long screws securing the USB‑C board cover.

Step 39: Replace the thermal pad

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Check the condition of the motherboard thermal pad—it'll either be on the bottom edge of the board or on the underside of the cover.

If the thermal pad is damaged, follow the next three steps to replace it. Otherwise, [guide|196783|skip down three steps|stepid=405471].

Use the flat end of a spudger to gently scrape up and remove all the old thermal pad from the board and cover.

Step 40:

Step 40 - Image 1
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Use high‑concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol and a coffee filter (or lint‑free cloth) to clean up any thermal pad residue from the board and cover.

Allow the alcohol to dry completely before continuing.

Step 41:

Step 41 - Image 1
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Remove the larger liner (without cutouts) from the thermal pad.

Lay the thermal pad in its square cutout on the underside of the motherboard cover.

Press down firmly on the entire surface of the pad with your finger or the flat end of a spudger.

Slowly peel up the remaining liner.

If the pad starts to peel up with the liner, press it back into place and try again.

Step 42: Connect the battery

Step 42 - Image 1

Use your finger to press down and reconnect the battery press connector.

Step 43: Check the graphite sheet

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Check the condition of the graphite sheet attached to the motherboard cover.

If the sheet is torn or damaged in any way, peel it up and remove it from the cover—you'll apply a new one in a few steps.

Step 44: Install the motherboard cover

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Put the motherboard cover back in place.

Step 45:

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Use a Torx Plus 3IP screwdriver to install the two 5.0 mm‑long screws securing the motherboard cover.

Step 46: Prepare the graphite sheet

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Remove the large clear liner from the graphite sheet, exposing the adhesive.

Step 47: Install the graphite sheet

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Lay the graphite sheet into place, so the circular portion is over the battery, and the cutouts on the top edge go into the grooves on the motherboard cover.

Use your fingers to press down firmly on the entire surface of the sheet to secure it.

Step 48:

Step 48 - Image 1
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Slowly peel up and remove the remaining liner.

If the sheet starts to peel up with the liner, press it back into place and try again.

Step 49: Remove the old back glass adhesive

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Before installing new adhesive, all the old adhesive and its residue must be completely removed from the frame.

Take your time during the next two steps. A clean frame allows replacement adhesive to lay totally flat, ensuring a better seal for your back glass.

Step 50:

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Removing all the old adhesive can be very tricky and time‑consuming.

Use the point of a spudger to remove all the old screen adhesive from the frame. Try to "roll" the adhesive onto itself so it balls up, making it easier to remove.

If you're having trouble removing smaller chunks, apply a single drop of high‑concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol and scrape them up with your spudger.

Step 51:

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Wrap a microfiber or lint‑free cloth around a spudger and apply a single drop of high‑concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol to the end.

Use the spudger to clean up all the remaining adhesive residue from the frame, applying more drops of alcohol as necessary.

Step 52:

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If you're reinstalling your original back glass, repeat the procedures in the previous two steps on the back glass to clean it.

Step 53: Orient the adhesive

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Before applying the back glass adhesive, make sure you know how it will sit on the frame. If you apply the adhesive incorrectly, you'll need to restart with new adhesive.

Hold the adhesive above the frame to find its orientation. Use the rear camera cutout in the liner to help visualize how it will lay in the frame.

Step 54:

Step 54 - Image 1

Peel down the ***top half*** of the large, clear liner to expose the adhesive—don't fully remove the liner yet.

Step 55: Install the back glass adhesive

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Take your time aligning the adhesive with the frame—it's very sticky and can't be moved after you apply it.

With the larger, clear liner folded towards the bottom of the phone, lay the exposed top edge of the adhesive onto the frame.

Use the lip of the frame to help align the adhesive.

Once the top edge is properly aligned, gently press down on the top corners to secure the adhesive.

Step 56:

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Slowly lay the rest of the adhesive onto the frame, pressing it into place and peeling away the larger liner as you go.

Step 57:

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Use a spudger to press down firmly on the adhesive to secure it to the frame.

Step 58: Remove the larger liner

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Slowly peel up and remove the large colored liner, gripping it from the cutout near the top edge.

If the adhesive starts to peel up with the liner, check that you’ve pushed all of it into place with your spudger. If it continues to peel up, hold it down with the point of your spudger as you go.

Step 59:

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Use a spudger to press down firmly on the adhesive to secure it to the frame.

Step 60: Remove any liners from the back glass

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If you're installing a new back glass, your replacement will have various protective liners and pieces of tape on the underside that must be removed. Your part may have different pieces in different locations, so make sure to check carefully!

Remove all liners from the underside of the back glass, paying special attention to the front camera cutouts and bottom edge.

Usually, you can identify the liners by their pull tabs.

Step 61: Prop the back glass up

Step 61 - Image 1

Apply a suction handle to the back glass and prop it up on the left side of your phone, so the cable is near its connector.

Alternatively, you can use a sturdy object (such as a stack of books) to prop up the back glass.

Step 62: Connect the back glass cable

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Use the flat end of a spudger to connect the back glass press connector to its socket.

This can be tricky, as there's very little play in the cable. Move the back glass as necessary to help, and don't try to force the connector into place—reposition it and try again.

Step 63: Install the bracket

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Put the cable's bracket back in place, making sure the tab on the right edge goes [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/EbxfkMOTUBevHTQn.full|under its groove|new_window=true].

Step 64:

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Use a Torx Plus 3IP screwdriver to install the two 5.0 mm‑long screws securing the bracket.

Step 65: Remove the remaining liners

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Remove the remaining liners from the back glass adhesive.

If the adhesive starts to peel up with the liner, check that you’ve pushed all of it into place with your spudger. If it continues to peel up, hold it down with the point of your spudger as you go.

Step 66: Install the back glass

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Flip the back glass onto the frame and press it firmly into place.

Hold your phone up and squeeze firmly around the perimeter to strengthen the bond.

For an even stronger bond, you can [guide|165811|stack books on the back glass|stepid=349253|new_window=true] or use [guide|142291|screen vise clamps|new_window=true].

📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.

iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm

DIY vs Professional Repair

✋ DIY Repair

  • ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $24-$72)
  • ✅ Learn new skills
  • ❌ Risk of further damage
  • ❌ No warranty
  • ❌ Requires tools and time

🔧 Professional Repair

  • ✅ Expert installation
  • ✅ Warranty included
  • ✅ Faster turnaround
  • ❌ Higher cost ($40-$120)
  • ❌ Need to find reputable shop

Environmental Impact

By choosing to repair your Google Pixel 1 instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 57 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new Google Pixel 1 generates 60 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 3 kg of CO₂. That's a 95% reduction in carbon emissions!

Get a Personalized Repair Estimate

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