Google Pixel 1 Camera Repair
Complete guide to Google Pixel 1 camera repair. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.
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💰 Cost Breakdown
💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.
🔧 Repair Overview
Camera Repair is one of the most common repairs for Google Pixel 1. This repair involves replacing the damaged optics component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 30 min - 1 hour and requires moderate skill level.
What You'll Need
- Replacement optics part (OEM or aftermarket)
- Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
- Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
- Adhesive strips or glue
- Clean workspace with good lighting
Step-by-Step Process
Step 1: Prepare your Pixel for disassembly
***Let your Pixel's battery drain below 25% before starting this repair.*** A charged lithium‑ion battery may catch fire if damaged.
Unplug all cables and completely power down your phone.
Step 2: Cracked glass preparation
Glass shards can complicate disassembly—or worse, cause injury. If your phone's back glass is cracked, follow this step.
Apply strips of packing tape to the cracked glass until it's completely covered—this will help keep the glass contained and allow the suction cup to stick.
Make sure there's a ***single strip*** (''not'' overlapping) of tape across the ***bottom edge***, big enough for a suction cup to fit on.
Only cover the glass itself—don't stick any tape to the frame.
Consider wearing safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.
Step 3: Heat the bottom edge
Adhesive secures the back glass to the frame. Heating the glass softens the adhesive, making it easier to separate.
Alternatively, you can use a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true] or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true] to heat the back glass.
Only heat your phone so it's just hot to the touch. Extreme heat can damage the battery, screen, or internal components.
Step 4: Apply a suction handle
Apply a suction handle to the center of the back glass's bottom edge, as close to the edge as possible.
Step 5: Insert an opening pick
Pull up on the suction handle with strong, steady force until a gap forms between the back glass and frame.
Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.
Step 6: Back glass adhesive information
The back glass is secured with adhesive around the perimeter of the frame. Use this picture as a reference while you separate the adhesive.
A cable connects the back glass near the power button. ***Don't insert your pick here to avoid damaging the cable***.
Step 7: Separate the bottom edge adhesive
If the back glass feels stuck at any point during the next few steps, apply heat to the area and try again.
Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge to separate the adhesive.
Leave the pick inserted under the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from re‑sealing.
Step 8: Separate the bottom left adhesive
Insert a second pick under the bottom left corner and slide it up the left edge, ***stopping at the power button***.
Leave the pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from re‑sealing.
Step 9: Separate the right edge adhesive
Insert a third pick under the bottom right corner of the back glass and slide it up the right edge.
Leave the pick inserted under the top right corner.
Step 10: Separate the top edge adhesive
Insert a fourth pick under the top right corner.
Slide the pick along the top edge and slightly around the top left corner, stopping at the bottom of the camera bump.
Don't try to fully remove the screen yet, as it's still connected by a ribbon cable.
Step 11: Prop up the back glass
Flip the back glass over the left side of the phone and use the suction handle (or a sturdy object) to prop it up.
If the back glass still feels stuck, go back around the perimeter with an opening pick and separate any remaining adhesive.
Step 12: Remove the bracket screws
Use a Torx Plus 3IP screwdriver to remove the two 5.0 mm‑long screws securing the back glass connector bracket.
Step 13:
Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the bracket.
Be careful not to scratch or smudge the rear cameras.
Step 14: Disconnect the back glass
Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the back glass [guide|25629|press connector|stepid=70308|new_window=true].
Step 15: Remove the back glass
Remove the back glass.
Step 16: Remove the motherboard cover screws
Use a Torx Plus 3IP screwdriver to remove the two 5.0 mm‑long screws securing the motherboard cover.
Step 17: Reposition the motherboard cover
Use a spudger to lift the motherboard cover and gently flip it towards the bottom of the phone.
Be careful not to damage the delicate graphite sheet that connects the cover.
Step 18: Disconnect the battery
Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery [guide|25629|press connector|stepid=70308|new_window=true].
Step 19: Remove the front camera bracket
Use a Torx Plus 3IP screwdriver to remove the 5.0 mm‑long screw securing the front camera bracket.
Step 20: Remove the bracket
Use the point of a spudger to push the front camera bracket's [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/SuOvIZjmCfF5xka1.full|clip|new_window=true] in and up to release it.
Remove the bracket.
Step 21: Remove the mic cover
Use a Torx Plus 3IP screwdriver to remove the two 5.0 mm‑long screws securing the mic cover.
Step 22:
Remove the mic cover.
Step 23: Disconnect the rear cameras
Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the three rear camera press connectors.
Step 24: Remove the rear cameras
Remove the rear cameras.
Step 25:
Congratulations on completing disassembly! ***The remaining steps will show how to reassemble your phone.***
Step 26: Insert the rear cameras
Place the rear cameras onto the motherboard.
Step 27: Connect the rear cameras
Use your finger to press down and connect the three rear camera press connectors.
Step 28: Install the mic cover
Put the mic cover back in place near the top left corner.
Step 29:
Use a Torx Plus 3IP screwdriver to install the two 5.0 mm‑long screws securing the mic cover.
Step 30: Install the front camera bracket
Slide the top corners of the front camera bracket under the lip in the frame and press the clip in to secure it.
Be careful not to touch the rear cameras.
Step 31: Check the thermal pad
Check the condition of the motherboard thermal pad—it'll either be on the bottom edge of the board or on the underside of the cover.
If the thermal pad is damaged, follow the next two steps to replace it. Otherwise, [guide|196809|skip down two steps|stepid=405520].
Be careful when working on the motherboard cover in the next two steps, as it's still connected by delicate graphite film. If you damage the film, you'll need to replace it with a [product|IF356-595|new one|new_window=true].
Use the flat end of a spudger to gently scrape up and remove all the old thermal pad from the board and cover.
Use high‑concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol and a coffee filter (or lint‑free cloth) to clean up any thermal pad residue from the board and cover.
Allow the alcohol to dry completely before continuing.
Step 32: Replace the thermal pad
Remove the larger liner (without cutouts) from the thermal pad.
Lay the thermal pad in its square cutout on the underside of the motherboard cover.
Press down firmly on the entire surface of the pad with your finger or the flat end of a spudger.
Slowly peel up the remaining liner.
If the pad starts to peel up with the liner, press it back into place and try again.
Step 33: Connect the battery
Use your finger to press down and connect the battery press connector.
Step 34: Install the motherboard cover
Gently flip the motherboard cover up and back into place.
Step 35:
Use a Torx Plus 3IP screwdriver to install the two 5.0 mm‑long screws securing the motherboard cover.
Step 36: Remove the old back glass adhesive
Before installing new adhesive, all the old adhesive and its residue must be completely removed from the frame.
Take your time during the next two steps. A clean frame allows replacement adhesive to lay totally flat, ensuring a better seal for your back glass.
Step 37:
Removing all the old adhesive can be very tricky and time‑consuming.
Use the point of a spudger to remove all the old screen adhesive from the frame. Try to "roll" the adhesive onto itself so it balls up, making it easier to remove.
If you're having trouble removing smaller chunks, apply a single drop of high‑concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol and scrape them up with your spudger.
Step 38:
Wrap a microfiber or lint‑free cloth around a spudger and apply a single drop of high‑concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol to the end.
Use the spudger to clean up all the remaining adhesive residue from the frame, applying more drops of alcohol as necessary.
Step 39:
If you're reinstalling your original back glass, repeat the procedures in the previous two steps on the back glass to clean it.
Step 40: Orient the adhesive
Before applying the back glass adhesive, make sure you know how it will sit on the frame. If you apply the adhesive incorrectly, you'll need to restart with new adhesive.
Hold the adhesive above the frame to find its orientation. Use the rear camera cutout in the liner to help visualize how it will lay in the frame.
Step 41:
Peel down the ***top half*** of the large, clear liner to expose the adhesive—don't fully remove the liner yet.
Step 42: Install the back glass adhesive
Take your time aligning the adhesive with the frame—it's very sticky and can't be moved after you apply it.
With the larger, clear liner folded towards the bottom of the phone, lay the exposed top edge of the adhesive onto the frame.
Use the lip of the frame to help align the adhesive.
Once the top edge is properly aligned, gently press down on the top corners to secure the adhesive.
Step 43:
Slowly lay the rest of the adhesive onto the frame, pressing it into place and peeling away the larger liner as you go.
Step 44:
Use a spudger to press down firmly on the adhesive to secure it to the frame.
Step 45: Remove the larger liner
Slowly peel up and remove the large colored liner, gripping it from the cutout near the top edge.
If the adhesive starts to peel up with the liner, check that you’ve pushed all of it into place with your spudger. If it continues to peel up, hold it down with the point of your spudger as you go.
Step 46:
Use a spudger to press down firmly on the adhesive to secure it to the frame.
Step 47: Remove any liners from the back glass
If you're installing a new back glass, your replacement will have various protective liners and pieces of tape on the underside that must be removed. Your part may have different pieces in different locations, so make sure to check carefully!
Remove all liners from the underside of the back glass, paying special attention to the front camera cutouts and bottom edge.
Usually, you can identify the liners by their pull tabs.
Step 48: Prop the back glass up
Apply a suction handle to the back glass and prop it up on the left side of your phone, so the cable is near its connector.
Alternatively, you can use a sturdy object (such as a stack of books) to prop up the back glass.
Step 49: Connect the back glass cable
Use the flat end of a spudger to connect the back glass press connector to its socket.
This can be tricky, as there's very little play in the cable. Move the back glass as necessary to help, and don't try to force the connector into place—reposition it and try again.
Step 50: Install the bracket
Put the cable's bracket back in place, making sure the tab on the right edge goes [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/EbxfkMOTUBevHTQn.full|under its groove|new_window=true].
Step 51:
Use a Torx Plus 3IP screwdriver to install the two 5.0 mm‑long screws securing the bracket.
Step 52: Remove the remaining liners
Remove the remaining liners from the back glass adhesive.
If the adhesive starts to peel up with the liner, check that you’ve pushed all of it into place with your spudger. If it continues to peel up, hold it down with the point of your spudger as you go.
Step 53: Install the back glass
Flip the back glass onto the frame and press it firmly into place.
Hold your phone up and squeeze firmly around the perimeter to strengthen the bond.
For an even stronger bond, you can [guide|165811|stack books on the back glass|stepid=349253|new_window=true] or use [guide|142291|screen vise clamps|new_window=true].
📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.
iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm
DIY vs Professional Repair
✋ DIY Repair
- ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $36-$150)
- ✅ Learn new skills
- ❌ Risk of further damage
- ❌ No warranty
- ❌ Requires tools and time
🔧 Professional Repair
- ✅ Expert installation
- ✅ Warranty included
- ✅ Faster turnaround
- ❌ Higher cost ($60-$250)
- ❌ Need to find reputable shop
Environmental Impact
By choosing to repair your Google Pixel 1 instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 56 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new Google Pixel 1 generates 60 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 4 kg of CO₂. That's a 93% reduction in carbon emissions!
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