Garmin Forerunner 245 Water Damage Repair
Complete guide to Garmin Forerunner 245 water damage repair. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.
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💰 Cost Breakdown
💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.
🔧 Repair Overview
Water Damage Repair is one of the most common repairs for Garmin Forerunner 245. This repair involves replacing the damaged recovery component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 2-4 hours and requires difficult skill level.
🔧 Required Tools
What You'll Need
- Replacement recovery part (OEM or aftermarket)
- Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
- Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
- Adhesive strips or glue
- Clean workspace with good lighting
Step-by-Step Process
Step 1: (Optional) Remove bands
This watch makes use of [link|https://www.garmin.com/en-US/p/552881|20mm quick release bands].
Slide the pin on the metal bar and pull the band away from the watch body.
Step 2: Explanation of glue obstacle
(First photo) Past Forerunner models made use of a simplified glue construction which made it easier to heat-soften the glue and remove the screen by prying or by suction.
(Second photo) This watch (and other recent models) makes use of a complicated glue construction which makes it more difficult to heat-soften the glue and remove the screen by prying or by suction.
For more detail, the 3D models used to produce these images are available at these links: ([link|https://kwest.haus/public/files/old-garmin-glue.jscad|old], [link|https://kwest.haus/public/files/new-garmin-glue.jscad|new]) and can be opened in your browser at [link|https://openjscad.azurewebsites.net/|https://openjscad.azurewebsites.net/].
Watch body
Step 3: Attempt 1: Remove the combined screen and bezel via suction
This method is likely to fail. If you cannot complete it successfully, move on to the (more destructive) next step.
Utilize your choice of [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/iOpener/IF145-198?o=4|iOpener], heat gun, hair dryer, oven, etc. to soften the internal glue.
Attach a suction cup to the watch face and pull up while holding the watch body in place until the two separate.
Be careful not to damage the FFC (flexible flat cable) connecting to the screen after separation.
Step 4: Attempt 2: Remove the combined screen and bezel via prying
This method is likely to fail. If you cannot complete it successfully, move on to the (more destructive) next step.
Utilize your choice of [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/iOpener/IF145-198?o=4|iOpener], heat gun, hair dryer, oven, etc. to soften the internal glue.
Wedge your tool of choice (spudger, opening tool, knife, etc.) between the bezel brim and the rest of the watch body until you reach the wall of the plastic ring which hangs down from the bezel. Pry the watch face away from the watch body until the glue releases.
Be careful not to damage the FFC (flexible flat cable) connecting to the screen after separation.
You may need to cut some material away from the watch body or bezel brim in order to slide your tool in far enough to pry.
Step 5: Attempt 3: Remove the combined screen and bezel via cutting
While this method is more likely to work, it is also more likely to damage the screen.
Slip a knife between the bezel brim and the rest of the watch body. When you reach the wall of the plastic ring which hangs down from the bezel, don't stop. Instead, saw your way through this wall and make a slot large enough for a pry tool.
The FFC for the screen is particularly vulnerable if you choose to make a slot near the 6 o'clock position (under the "GARMIN" logo) due to its attachment point to the screen just behind the bezel ring.
Place your prying tool as far as it will go into the new slot and push the screen up until the glue releases.
Step 6: Disconnect the screen and heart rate sensor
Disconnect the screen FFC from the motherboard as described in [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s70308|this guide].
Similarly undo the connector for the FFC leading under the motherboard to the heartbeat sensor and vibration motor.
Step 7: Screen closeups
Insert wisdom here.
Step 8: Remove the motherboard
Undo and remove both of the T5 screws.
Turn the watch over so it is face down and let the motherboard fall out of the watch body.
Step 9: Parts identification (watch body)
Heart rate sensor
Vibration motor
Charging/USB contacts
Waterproof button chambers
Step 10: Component identification (outside of shielding)
ANT/BLE/BT coprocessor: Cypress CYW20719 [link|https://www.infineon.com/dgdl/Infineon-CYW20719B2KUMLGT-DataSheet-v07_00-EN.pdf?fileId=8ac78c8c7d0d8da4017d0ee7edf470db|datasheet]
GPS coprocessor: Sony D5603 [link|https://www.sony-semicon.co.jp/products/common/pdf/CXD5602GG_technical_manual.pdf|datasheet]
RF front end: Qorvo (RF Micro Devices) RFFM6205 [link|https://www.qorvo.com/products/d/da000801|datasheet]
Step 11: Remove shielding
The sides of the metal shielding are clips which fit around the small metal walls underneath of them on the PCB. You can reach under the end of the clips and push up to remove them.
Alternatively, stick something small past the gap between clips and under the shielding, then use it to pull the shielding up.
Remove the 3M tape covering the rest of the components.
Step 12: Component identification (inside of shielding)
Main processor: NXP Kinetis MK28FN2M0ACAU15 [link|https://www.nxp.com/docs/en/data-sheet/K28P210M150SF5V2.pdf|datasheet], [link|https://www.nxp.com/webapp/Download?colCode=K28P210M150SF5RM|technical reference manual (requires free login)]
SDRAM: Winbond W987D6HBGX6E [link|https://www.winbond.com/resource-files/w987dxhb_pkg_datasheet_a01-005_20160421.pdf|datasheet]
Sensorhub coprocessor: Ambiq Micro Apollo2 [link|https://ambiq.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/Apollo2-MCU-Datasheet.pdf|datasheet]
Wifi coprocessor: ATWILC 1000B-UU [link|https://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/Atmel-42491-WILC1000B-MUT_Datasheet.pdf|datasheet]
eMMC: KLM4G1FETE-B041 [link|https://datasheet.lcsc.com/lcsc/2008061102_Samsung-KLM4G1FETE-B041_C500273.pdf|datasheet]
PMIC: Maxim Integrated MAX20303B [link|https://datasheets.maximintegrated.com/en/ds/MAX20303.pdf|datasheet]
Step 13: Remaining components to be identified
905 AGR (qr code)
J80 (circle) JD910
Many other chips on both sides of the motherboard are too small to be legible by me, but might make sense to others.
The chips starting with 908 are likely designed by Garmin and proprietary.
Other chips with single and double letter names may be named according to [link|https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/25308/what-do-the-pcb-markings-mean|this reference].
Step 14: Further closeups
Insert wisdom here.
Step 15: Battery
Battery: Garmin 361-00086-11, 3.8Vcd * 180mAh = 0.68Wh, soldered to motherboard
Step 16: Going backwards
Assuming you didn't destroy the watch too much during the teardown, putting it back together should be as simple as following the steps in reverse plus replacing the old glue with some new glue (B-7000 seems to be the most common recommendation online).
📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.
iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm
DIY vs Professional Repair
✋ DIY Repair
- ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $60-$240)
- ✅ Learn new skills
- ❌ Risk of further damage
- ❌ No warranty
- ❌ Requires tools and time
🔧 Professional Repair
- ✅ Expert installation
- ✅ Warranty included
- ✅ Faster turnaround
- ❌ Higher cost ($100-$400)
- ❌ Need to find reputable shop
Environmental Impact
By choosing to repair your Garmin Forerunner 245 instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 24 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new Garmin Forerunner 245 generates 34 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 10 kg of CO₂. That's a 71% reduction in carbon emissions!
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