2012 Lexus IS Air Filter Replacement

I used home-made wooden car-ramps, but you can use a jack and jack-stands, or store-bought ramps

The tools I used were:

14mm wrench for drain bolt

Toyota filter housing wrench

1/2in rachet to drive the filter housing wrench

Drain pan and clean/dirty rags

Pick or small screwdriver to pull off the old O-ring

Philips 3 screwdriver to remove filter housing access panel, can also use 10mm socket

Big-mouth funnel

Remove the filter housing access panel with the screwdriver or 10mm socket

There are 3 screws

Position your drain pan under the oil pan - it's right-side of engine

Remove the oil pan drain bolt and try to avoid the mess!

Once the oil is drained, wipe around the drain hole with your rags

Re-install the drain bolt with your 14mm wrench or socket - don't over-tighten it!

You're supposed to replace the washer on the bolt every time, but sometimes you forget to buy new ones

Reposition your drain pan under the oil filter housing

Loosen the filter housing with your filter-housing-tool, or possibly with large channel-lock pliers...

While loosening it will start to drip - reposition your drain pan as required

Remove the filter housing completely

Remove the old filter from the housing

Clean out the housing as required

It's usually at this point I switch to the next cleaner level of rag

Remove the housing o-ring with a small screwdriver or pick - there is actually a cut-out in the lip to allow easy access - Thanks Toyota

Wipe some oil on your new O-ring and ensure it's in the correct groove in the housing

After preparing the filter housing with new filter and o-ring, screw it back into the opening

It does not need to be super-tight, it seals with the o-ring, just snug it up

Re-install the cover using your 3 screws from before, I recommend only using a screwdriver, since you want to barely torque these - they go into plastic

Now it's time to go up-top and re-fill the engine with Oil

I used Penrite HPR 5

My 2008 Lexus IS350 took around 6.6L of oil to fill

After I put in around 6L I took it down off the ramps to level the car before taking the final readings on the dipstick

The dipstick is on the right-side of the engine on IS350

The dipstick will only read correctly when the car is on level ground

Now you get to clean up the mess with your remaining rags or kitty litter or whatever.

Usually I start up the engine and run it for around 5 seconds (while listening intently) then check under for leaks

Maybe you have questions about the filter housing tool?

It's a Moker, I got it from Amazon [link|https://www.amazon.com/Moker-Compatible-2-0-5-7-Highlander-Accessorie/dp/B083SRNWJB/]

I'm in New Zealand, so the car is a JDM import from Japan, and I'm using locally-purchased Australian Penrite HPR 5 oil, and a Japanese JS Asakashi OE116J filter bought online from Singapore