2011 Toyota Camry Brake Pad Replacement
Complete guide to 2011 Toyota Camry brake pad replacement. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.
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💰 Cost Breakdown
💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.
🔧 Repair Overview
Brake Pad Replacement is one of the most common repairs for 2011 Toyota Camry. This repair involves replacing the damaged brakes component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 1-2 hours and requires moderate skill level.
What You'll Need
- Replacement brakes part (OEM or aftermarket)
- Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
- Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
- Adhesive strips or glue
- Clean workspace with good lighting
Step-by-Step Process
Step 1: Lift car and Remove wheel
Loosen the lugnuts. Use a breaker bar if necessary.
21mm socket.
Lift the car. Secure the car with safety stands and tire chucks/blocks.
Remove the wheel and set aside.
Step 2: Remove caliper and pads
Pull on the caliper to compress the piston, so it will slide off when you remove it.
Loosen the caliper slide bolts.
14mm wrench for the caliper slide bolt head. You will need to use a 17mm thin open wrench to hold the nut that sits inside, if it is sliding when you try to loosen the 14mm head. You may need to tap on the wrench with soft mallet if it is tight.
Use a bungee cord or S hook to hang the caliper from the shocks, to keep weight off the brake line.
Use one of the lug nuts to keep the rotor from accidentally falling.
Slide the pads out.
Remove 2 17mm bolts that hold the caliper bracket on and remove the remaining caliper hardware.
Step 3: Remove Rotor
Remove the Rotor
If it is rusted on, you can use 2 small threaded bolts to push into the small holes and against the hub to remove the rotor. Or if you are replacing the rotor, you can hit it with a hammer to loosen it up.
If the hub is really rusty, make sure to clean it with a wire brush.
Step 4: Install new Rotor and clean hardware
Put new rotor on backwards and clean off oil it ships with with brake parts cleaner, wiping any excess off with a paper towel. Reverse the rotor and repeat cleaning on the correct side.
Clean off brake caliper hardware to reuse.
Coat bottom edge of caliper tins with a small amount of anti-seize grease. Coat caliper bracket with grease where the tins sit.
Just paint the caliper with grease. You don't want tons of it or for it to build up too thick.
Remove caliper slide bolts and apply grease if it is binding up or you can feel it grinding when you twist and pull it out. Apply grease to the flat spots liberally. Replace by twisting the bolt back in to coat the grease.
Step 5: Reinstall Caliper
Install the top caliper bracket bolt first (17mm head). This will make the bottom one easier to line up.
Put a tiny amount of grease on the ears of the brake pad.
Make sure the surface of the brake pad is clean.
Put new brake pads in. Fit bottom ear in first to help line up the top. Attach spring hardware to the brake pads.
Inside and outside pads are identical.
Compress the caliper piston with a C clamp and the old brake pad so it will fit the new brake pads.
Fit caliper piston onto rotor and reinstall caliper slide bolts to the bracket. Torque the caliper mounting bracket bolts to 79 ft/lbs. Don't forget to remove the bungee cord or S hook you used to hang the caliper piston. Make sure the rotor surface is clean.
Step 6: Reinstall wheel
Put the wheel back on.
Make sure taper of lug nut is toward the wheel.
Snug up the lug nuts in a star pattern with a ratchet wrench or lug wrench.
Lower car and Torque lugnuts to 76 ft/lbs in a star pattern. If you don't have a torque wrench, hand tighten as much as possible with the lug wrench.
Get in the car and pump the break pedal about a quarter of the way 15-20 times to return pressure to the caliper piston. You should feel the pedal firm up.
Don't forget to remove the tire chucks/blocks.
📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.
iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm
DIY vs Professional Repair
✋ DIY Repair
- ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $90-$180)
- ✅ Learn new skills
- ❌ Risk of further damage
- ❌ No warranty
- ❌ Requires tools and time
🔧 Professional Repair
- ✅ Expert installation
- ✅ Warranty included
- ✅ Faster turnaround
- ❌ Higher cost ($150-$300)
- ❌ Need to find reputable shop
Environmental Impact
By choosing to repair your 2011 Toyota Camry instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 5995 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new 2011 Toyota Camry generates 6000 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 5 kg of CO₂. That's a 100% reduction in carbon emissions!
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